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Stupid stupid stupid

timebombprod

Forum Sage
That's me ranting about this bike, I got to turn the bike on today, and had to do a half turn out ti get it running better, wasnt gonna sit here and try to tune it being 7:30am.

The initial start before messing with the pilot screws it sounded okay at first, got worse as it got warmer, and the throttle response was not good you could tell it wasnt running on all the cylinders. The warmer it got the more I'd have to turn the idle up.

Turned pilot screws out half a turn and it got better, could idle stabile and no shorting was happening so that issue should be gone, I did a spray test and cylinders 1 through 3 steamed up just fine, cylinder 4 barely steamed. Went ahead and rode it just to see how it'd act during a ride and low speed rpm was not good, its barely want to go, and when I get to a certain rpm I'd say above 3000 it will stay up there during a shift, maybe try to climb a bit more, sometimes it would jerk me after i pull the clutch out from an upshift, as a matter of fact it would jerk around a noticable amount during those low speed rpms. The good thing is when I'd stop o wouldn't have to hold on the throttle to make sure it would stay alive, it was able to idle by itself during the ride. Sometimes it would go up about 200ish rom from idle and I'm thinking maybe that's the fourth cylinder going, but it would eventually start to climb up constantly. I also had it keep going by itself after I let off the throttle.

My thoughts, the idle screws need to be messed with to get a better tune low speed, the throttle cable might be getting friction somewhere causing it to stick a bit, and, maybe something to do with the clutch? This clutch has always been super easy to operate, but damn does it clunk a bit during shifting at low speeds.

The carbs have been rebuilt very recently, the floats were weighed and float height was set. My ignition system is all new, coils, dyna S, plugs, leads, and the coil relay mod has been done. I just have an exhaust on it. Everything that has been done has been tested to prove good.

What are stupid things that could be happening.

Stupid stupid stupid,
 
Ome thing with the carbtune is I cant really get a reading at idle on it, I used to be able to but now I cant. I'm gonna look for leaks but i dont believe it does have any. I know how it works, I'm wondering if it needs lubrication but I dint know how I'd do that.
 
I don't believe the CarbTune requires any lubrication. In fact, I think they say specifically NOT to in the manual, IIRC.
 
I don't believe the CarbTune requires any lubrication. In fact, I think they say specifically NOT to in the manual, IIRC.

Any clue why it wont get a reading during idle, have to rev it up for them to come out but still that probably isnt an accurate way to use it.
 
Shoot us a picture of your Carbtune setup. I recall idle having to be quite high (~2500) to get an initial reading and as the synch got better I could bring the rpms down. It was also easier using the restrictors that came with the kit.
 
Shoot us a picture of your Carbtune setup. I recall idle having to be quite high (~2500) to get an initial reading and as the synch got better I could bring the rpms down. It was also easier using the restrictors that came with the kit.


I've never used one,would like to.I've heard a number of guys that own them mention that installing the restrictors is important.
 
Snapchat-736626376.jpg


I did hook it up how the manual tells me, its a carbtune pro

Says to have it a bit above normal idle speed so I'd day 14-1500 would be ideal.
 
Not doubting you Ian, but I would like to confirm you hung it upside down. I made the mistake of not doing that the first time I used it
 
I think you are correct. I may have been remembering the old Carbtune II setup which was hung upside down.
 
The carbs would have to be extremely unbalanced to cause the kind of problem you are reporting. No good carb tuning can be accomplished without proper valve clearances and a lack of vacuum leaks. Carb boot O rings? Carb boots, air box boots? Airbox properly sealed? Petcock function? Tank vent? Bench sync done? How confident are you of the carb rebuild quality?
 
The carbs would have to be extremely unbalanced to cause the kind of problem you are reporting. No good carb tuning can be accomplished without proper valve clearances and a lack of vacuum leaks. Carb boot O rings? Carb boots, air box boots? Airbox properly sealed? Petcock function? Tank vent? Bench sync done? How confident are you of the carb rebuild quality?

I'm very confident in the rebuild, the mechanic I brought the carbs to get the floats done said I did a good job on them. No signs of vacuum leaks, been through it all. The carb sync is the last thing i can really do. Valves are up to date.

Heres where I did mess up, the heads on my pilot jets were pretty bad so I ordered some new ones, I ordered size 45 instead of 42.5 and that affected it way more than i realised. Went back to stick and it runs heaps better and quieter at idle and such, I just need to get the idle screws set correctly. Was not having good throttle response at all but I had the turns out off by atleast a half turn.

Once i get the mixture screws set I'll be checking for that hanging rev, and will likely go through the procedures again for checking for a vacuum leak. Throttle cable is fine.

Petcock works just fine and my tank does vent I would think, doesnt hold pressure. The carbs have been bench synced a while back but never adjusted.
 
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