Thanks for the detailed write up. A lot of members will get a much better appreciation for doing a detailed technical write-up and a nice description of electrical techniques for these motorcycles.
You are adding a lot of expansion capability and have what looks like 100% growth. At some point you have to look at capacity and total load. I'm assuming you have separate ways to control these other loads when you are not at speed. Actually all of these extra loads are good because they reduce the current that would otherwise be shunted in your stator making it less likely you would even need a SERIES r/r.
I know you had the stated objective to minimize changes to the harness, and in fact to the extent that you can divert current away from the primary OEM current paths, you are improving the loading on the stock harness and so keeping it stock is warranted as it is achieving more design margin (it is probably marginal as stock) with these types of mods.
However to make sure that you are not taxing the stock wiring with all of the additional devices you have to be a little careful with how you connect your +12V fused source and where you return power for all of these external loads. You want to pickup points where you are not sharing current with the rest of the harness. In fact another thing you don't want to do is share current is add additional current on wires running between the battery and the R/R.
So we are lead inextricably back to a discussion of power and grounding. I think this link probably has a descent enough discussion.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115
The "T" is recognizable from the schematic but is the eqivalent to the output of the R/R (+) in the figure below. In this figure it should be clear that if you pick up power from the solenoid that the current coming from the R/R has to go through the OE fuse box.
this one shows the "T" right at the output of the R/R and is more representative of the R/R battery fusebox relation than the one above.
Point #1 all average current comes from (or out of ) the R/R(+).==>
this is where you want your single point distribution to originate
Point #2 all average current returns to (goes back to) the R/R(-). ==>
return all current to this single point ground.
So if you recall in my write up I talked about single point grounds and also at what point to distribute power from.
The best place to return all the current is to the single point ground at the R/R mounting bolt. That mounting bolt should have a heavy wire to frame, to the harness and to the battery. In the case of KK mod all the return current will get back to the same point. So unless you bring the return back to here you will be sharing current with something else. I'm not sure of how KK's R/R is exactly connected but the single point ground is the lowest potential for the bike. See this link for details.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769
So now the more complicated part of the connection where to tap off for the +12V unswitched. In principal you have the same issues as grounding. You want to avoid sharing current.
The source of all power is again the R/R (+) except of course when the R/R is shunting (or engine off) and the power comes from the battery. There are some variations to the way these harnesses are configured but the highest voltage potential in the system is at the "T" in the harness.
This is where the R/R (+) and the fused battery lead come together. Pulling power from that point is the best you can do. In fact although I did not document it, when I rewired a handlebar power outlet, I figured to kill multiple birds with one stone. I opened my harness up (where the R/R (+) red wire enters) to find that "T" and to help get rid of those pesky voltage drops ( see stator pages Phase A for the tests) I relocated the relay mod pickup point to the T.
So KK, I would go back over these two primary connections:
If your Mod ground doesn't go right back to the R/R (-) single point ground how is it going to get there? You don't want to share that current with the charging current wire between battery and R/R. A frame/chassis ground is OK if your single point ground has a strap to frame as well.
On the R/R (+) T side, the way I think you are connected which is the solenoid HOT, then all of the current from the R/R(+) is running though your OEM fuse box to get to the battery and then to the solenoid where you are picking up power. The "T" is much better for the reasons described. It would avoid accessory current through the OEM fuse box.
You might have accomplished this but I'd be guessing because without the harness schematic and knowing exactly where those fuse box connections/cuts are I'm not sure. By going right from the "T" on you don't need to change or snip any other fuse box/harness wires for Mod power.
