Taking a GS1000 to the track, advice needed

[Rijko]

With those carbs and a 4 : 1 pipe, it's worth dialling the stock cams in to 107 lobe center inlet and 109 exhaust.Very good midrange and top end with those figures.
If you search Utube for "GS1000 racing" there's an old vid on line of our GS in it's early form. Yours should approximate what you see. Wheelies optional....

Nooooo ... you mean this is you (or a team mate) ?

Must have watched this vid 1000+ times.
Definition of riding in anger + having insane amounts of fun !

Wet dreams for me ... though ofcourse i will try to at least have as much
fun even if only 10% as fast ... i love wheelies.

 

[Carter Turk]

Great video passing the whole lot...from the back.
Curious when a 1100 had a 18" rear?
Or is that a southern hemi thing with spokes.

 

[GregT]

The old grey haired coot working on the clutch is me....

What the US called the 1150 was still sold down here as an 1100 - pretty sure the rim we used then was a 3.5 X 18 which was probably from an "1150" - or as we call them, an 1135.

The bike is a lot different now - a LOT more power, 17's, better brakes, more bracing etc etc...as you do. hasn't been out for a season now due to the rider/owner's illness. When he's stronger, we'll be back...

Pic is current state of the bike. Greymouth street races a couple of seasons back. Just past start line - exit of last corner is about 150 meters back.
On smooth circuits it lays rubber exiting corners...

 

[Rijko]

looking cool there Greg !
Engine sounds powerful in the vid, and you now have a LOT more power ?
Must be a blast to ride

 

[GregT]

There's an old rule of thumb - the more powerful a bike is, the better it should carburate...Lot of patience needed to get our old machines up to a good standard.
It runs 33mm CR's and a Dyna 2000. The Pres of our local Classic club was doing writeups of members bikes for the magazine so I suggested he take the next step and do a track test...He came back fizzing at how user friendly it is.
He even liked the "supple suspension"... Rich wouldn't, the rear is good but the front is spaced so as to have no static unladen sag - and only about 10mm with the rider aboard. It's that way so as to prop the front up in long sweepers - ground clearance again...And the rider's preferred cornering method is trail brake deep, turn it and nail it. The front pops up - wheelies again, LOL - and it digs in and goes. Curving black lines out of most hairpins...

 

[RichDesmond]

...He even liked the "supple suspension"... Rich wouldn't, the rear is good but the front is spaced so as to have no static unladen sag - and only about 10mm with the rider aboard. It's that way so as to prop the front up in long sweepers - ground clearance again...And the rider's preferred cornering method is trail brake deep, turn it and nail it. The front pops up - wheelies again, LOL - and it digs in and goes. Curving black lines out of most hairpins...

Yeah, that's got me twitching. It'll wheelie less and transfer power better with less preload up front. But lack of ground clearance can force some ugly compromises.

 

[GregT]

Yep, all of this is known...maybe one day we'll do something about it. The last season before he got sick, he was getting good at backing it in.Truly frightening to watch, particularly from up close I'm told...Massive talent, having fun.

 

[gs58]

If you've not raced or done a trackday before, leave it as stock as possible to start with.
Modify it as you think you need to - and only when you've identified a need for change.

IMO unless you're really short, the footrests are too high. With the very flat seat, you're going to need to use your legs to help locate yourself.
I'd drop them about 50mm. Ground clearance won't suffer as the alternator cover will touch down first...

Don't take the electric start off - they're a heavy pig to push start....

Great advice Greg. I went down the road of thinking that more horsepower would make up for less talent and ended up breaking vertebrae, tail bone, ribs, bones in hands and feet and scratched my helmet. Get experience before power. And spend good money on the best tyres - they are (hopefully) the only thing between you and the road.

 

[Rijko]

Great advice Greg. I went down the road of thinking that more horsepower would make up for less talent and ended up breaking vertebrae, tail bone, ribs, bones in hands and feet and scratched my helmet. Get experience before power. And spend good money on the best tyres - they are (hopefully) the only thing between you and the road.

yep, great advice and i'll take it
I did order the Sonic 1.1 kg springs, will use them with the MikesXS cartridge emulators.
Just wondering if i should use the standard amount of oil.

I'll start with the Koni rear shocks and buy new sport/touring tires.
Twinpot upgrade and VM28SS carbs, standard engine.
Ride the bike for several hundred km's to get used to it on the road.

Will start with a beginners course, this is a controlled ride so no overtakes.
Next up my buddy, an experienced track instructor will tutor me for a day.
Hope this gives me a good start.
Thank you all for your help !

 

[tas850g]

Suspension, brakes, and tires are about the only things to be concerned with for track days and novice racing. It can be really that simple at first. Then spend the rest of your money on instruction.

That's my current take of 3 years of racing.

 

[Guest]

Suspension, brakes, and tires are about the only things to be concerned with for track days and novice racing. It can be really that simple at first. Then spend the rest of your money on instruction.

That is great advice. I will add that OP should aim for reliability over all else on the drive train side. Piles of power do you no good if you are sitting in the pits with a broken bike.


Mark

 

[RichDesmond]

...I did order the Sonic 1.1 kg springs, will use them with the MikesXS cartridge emulators.
Just wondering if i should use the standard amount of oil...

Set the oil level to 120mm. The springs come with instructions on how to set the level.
Holler at me anytime you have questions about the fork setup.

 

[Rijko]

excellent, thanks Rich !

 

[Rijko]

That is great advice. I will add that OP should aim for reliability over all else on the drive train side. Piles of power do you no good if you are sitting in the pits with a broken bike.Mark

thanks Mark, keep the advice coming

i'm trying to do it right... new tires, chain and sprockets, Pingel tap, Koni rear shocks, bearings, Dyna S and Dyna 3 Ohm coils.
Twinpot upgrade : rebuilding calipers and mc's.
Front suspension upgrade : MikesXS cartridge emulatore and Sonic springs, new oil and seals.
Compression is ok, valves lapped, new valve stem seals.
VM28SS carbs rebuilt 'GSR style' with Cycle-O-Rings package inc. carb boots and rings. Will be synced and Dynojet tuned.

Even new wiring : using M-Unit and Compu-Fire.

Would be a shame to leave the old stator in : even though it is still ok the wires to RR are hard.
It may last another 38 years but i feel better with a new one.

I think in the past there was a preference for Rick's but checking The Stator Pages and a dozen or so threads on replacing the stator i get the feeling that preference is not so much there anymore.

People mainly seem to use Rick's (145$), Electrosport (120$), Caltric (35$) and i did not read about any issues with those.
OEM is in the 350$ range :nightmare:

Which one would you guys use (or avoid) ?

Rijk

 

[Sandy]

I put a functioning used stock stator in my GS1000 with a Honda R/R years ago and 50,000kms later all is still good. I'd say pull the cover and if the stator is not heat damaged swap out the R/R with a series one and be done with it.

 

[salty_monk]

Kawasaki ones fit too & usually aren't so toasted for some reason...

 

[Guest]

i'm trying to do it right... new tires, chain and sprockets, Pingel tap, Koni rear shocks, bearings, Dyna S and Dyna 3 Ohm coils.
Twinpot upgrade : rebuilding calipers and mc's.
Front suspension upgrade : MikesXS cartridge emulatore and Sonic springs, new oil and seals.
Compression is ok, valves lapped, new valve stem seals.
VM28SS carbs rebuilt 'GSR style' with Cycle-O-Rings package inc. carb boots and rings. Will be synced and Dynojet tuned.

With all the changes you are making will you get a chance to road ride it and sort the basics before hitting the track? Trying to learn to track ride while also sorting out your bike is a bad idea. Make sure as much as possible is tested and set up beforehand so you can concentrate on your riding.


Mark

 

[Rijko]

definitely, the bike needs to show me it's reliable so i will road test it for at least a week.
Not a quick Italian testdrive but good long rides including lots of twisted roads to get used to it and make changes where needed.

Still waiting for the Compu-Fire to arrive, should have had it sent by air freight.

 

[Rijko]

To get a feel for how the bike runs, i wonder if i can just hook up the
contact points and 3 Ohm Dyna's and take it for a ride.
Stator not connected.
Will that blow the stator ?

 

[GregT]

To get a feel for how the bike runs, i wonder if i can just hook up the
contact points and 3 Ohm Dyna's and take it for a ride.
Stator not connected.
Will that blow the stator ?

Pull the stator out of the sidecover to be sure. It's about a 10min job. A good battery will give you a couple of hours running - without lights and not too many starts...