TDC Question

[RustyTank]

Hello folks. I'm workin on my 1979 GS850G at the moment. I'm planning on removing the cylinder head and jugs. Is it recommended to put the engine at TDC prior to doing so? I know I'll have to do it prior to putting the engine back together, just wanted to know if there's any benefit to doing it prior to dismantling?

 

[GregT]

No benefit - it'll move when you pull the cylinders anyway.

 

[RustyTank]

No benefit - it'll move when you pull the cylinders anyway.

Right, got it. I didn't think there was but thought I'd ask. Thanks GregT.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

As for putting it back together, you’ll likely find it easiest to have 2 & 3 up first, get those started, before turning the crank to get the 1 & 4 in. You don’t need to consider the exact position of the crank until you set the cams.

 

[RustyTank]

As for putting it back together, you’ll likely find it easiest to have 2 & 3 up first, get those started, before turning the crank to get the 1 & 4 in. You don’t need to consider the exact position of the crank until you set the cams.

Are you referring to putting the jugs back on Rich?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Yes, when putting the jugs down over the pistons.

 

[Steve]

Correct. The Clymer service manual shows a couple blocks of wood that help holding the pistons up while you slide the cylinders down. It’s basically a 1x4 that is narrowed to fit between the studs and has a long slot down the middle that is wide enough to slide past the rod. It looks like a tuning fork without a handle.

.

 

[RustyTank]

Yes, when putting the jugs down over the pistons.

Thanks Rich. That's great info.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Yes, my Clymer manual is much more detailed in describing the cylinder installation than the Factory manual.

 

[RustyTank]

Correct. The Clymer service manual shows a couple blocks of wood that help holding the pistons up while you slide the cylinders down. It’s basically a 1x4 that is narrowed to fit between the studs and has a long slot down the middle that is wide enough to slide past the rod. It looks like a tuning fork without a handle.

Yup, I've got the pic you're referring to Steve.

 

[RustyTank]

Yes, my Clymer manual is much more detailed in describing the cylinder installation than the Factory manual.

Wow Rich, your manual IS more detailed. Thanks for posting that pic man :encouragement:

 

[Steve]

Wow Rich, your manual IS more detailed. Thanks for posting that pic man :encouragement:

The factory manual is written for factory-trained technicians, therefore it assumes that you got a bunch of those inside tips in your training.

The Clymer (and Haynes) manual is pretty much written for the rest of us.

For specs, I generally trust OEM over the others, but I have seen errors is ALL of them.

.

 

[RustyTank]

The factory manual is written for factory-trained technicians, therefore it assumes that you got a bunch of those inside tips in your training.

The Clymer (and Haynes) manual is pretty much written for the rest of us.

For specs, I generally trust OEM over the others, but I have seen errors is ALL of them.

.

Completely unrelated Steve, I just sent you an email regarding the valve adjust spreadsheet for my 2-valve per cylinder engine :smile-new:

 

[Maddevill]

Just make sure you keep the timing chain snug when you turn the motor over with the cams out. The chain
can bunch up around the crank gear.

Mad

 

[RustyTank]

Just make sure you keep the timing chain snug when you turn the motor over with the cams out. The chain
can bunch up around the crank gear.

Mad

Ooof...great suggestion. Thanks Mad.