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The open source Rectifier/Regulator

  • Thread starter Thread starter bakalorz
  • Start date Start date
rustybronco said:
when you get your parts list and schematic finished may i ask that you post it up some we may work on a case design and the art work? maybe then Frank can fit it into "in the garage" as a section "home brewing" or "rosin core 101" with a led voltmeter ect.

The parts list and schematic are done, but there are two possibilities, depending on which way I go on the control circuit. It will take some testing after they are built to know.

I will post them as soon as I finalize it.
 
relic-rider said:
Man, If there is anything worse than petty bitchin about something, it is EE's bitchin about stuff in terms i don't understand. Cut it out already. Why don't you guys get together on a design that incorporates the best of both designs and not "mine is better and cheaper than yours".
I am not an EE, I'm a Rocket Scientist*, get it straight.

I had hoped to work together on the design Cletus was doing, but he kept it proprietary.

I was trying to provide info on how the designs were different, and why. I was NOT trying to say either was better.

BTW some of the "bitchin about stuff in terms i don't understand" could be viewed as trying to "incorporates the best of both designs" by discussing what is important and what is not.


relic-rider said:
Cletus was on the right track, just trying something that he thought was needed. Maybe his is overkill, but it works for his application and he was the first to design and build and make one available to everyone.
Actually, to pick a nit that bugged me: he didn't really make it available to everyone. Just those that were willing to pay.


relic-rider said:
Sure there was other schematics and designs before his, but where were all of you when he was BUILDING one. Sittin at your desk criticizing him.
Actually, when the other thread first started, I was eagerly waiting to build and/or experiment with his design.

When it came out that he was going to charge for the design, I was VERY disappointed; but I didn't bitch, I started to design my own.

Someone eventually spoke up that he thought it was inappropriate that Cletus was charging, and I agreed and also mentioned that I was doing freebie, and here we are


relic-rider said:
Get over it. If you can build a better one and cheaper, do it. Do it for me and all of the other non techno geeks out there, who can't or have no interest in building one ourselves.
I'm trying.


relic-rider said:
We still all need one. Our GS's RR's are CRAP. That IS the REAL problem. Sorry, My .02

.02 is not going to cover it, please send big $$, Paypal info to follow.

Thank you and have a nice day.

---------

* Well; ok, not really a Rocket Scientist: an Aerospace Engineer ...
but Rocket Scientist sounds so much better. \\:D/
 
Nerobro said:
Maybe it might be a good idea to put a ziener diode under the cap to drain power if the line voltage hits.. oh.. 20v?
Hmmm... you mean like ... to regulate the voltage or something ...

The Zener to do what you suggest would effectively be what they used to use for regulators way back when.

An adequate zener for our alternators would be $$$


Nerobro said:
The cap I ordered for the berkley regs are 50v.
If you are allowed to say, can you give me a part #, or catalog #.
 
Boondocks said:
It puzzles and gives me pause to see how Cletus's design is perceived to be the holy grail of design perfection and "bulletproof" because he has specified extra tolerances on some components. His design seems to be the only one on the planet for a shunt regulator that doesn't use heat sink(s). Instead of using an inexpensive heat sink to absorb heat, he seems to think that retaining heat in more expensive components is a satisfactory solution. Not a very elegant or "better quality" solution in my opinion. I'm not moonstruck about his design, which is basically the same as the free open source vreg.pdf file without the heatsink(s) which are considered mandatory by commercial designers who have to pay for their mistakes. All I've seen so far is a box that is unwieldy and oversized for motorcycle use (with unnecessary components) whose long term practicality and viability remain to be seen. I am skeptical, and frankly the rhetoric and concept does not impress. Sorry if I offend the true believers.:)
First of all, the fact that I find Cletus' effort to be long overdue doesn't make me a "true believer" as you put it, nor do I have anything against anyone else who wants to duplicate the work and post it for free. I, for one, found value in what he was/is doing, and am more than happy to reward that effort by paying a small fee to have the solution "spelled out for me," so to speak.

Regarding your skepticism on building a R/R without a heat sink, Cletus solved the problem by overspecing the components AND using a larger/thicker box to draw excess heat away. He also suggested mounting the unit to the frame in a way that uses the frame more effectively than the stock units do, so in reality he didn't ignore using a heat sink ... he just eliminated the need for one. Commercial units MUST employ heat sinks simply because they ARE packaged in a tiny space with limited available area for heat dissipation ... they're trying to fit as many applications as possible, whereas we have the flexibility to diverge because we're building it ourselves...

For what it's worth, Greg (Nerobro) and I spent the day with his roomate, Steve (Skreemer) building two R/R's based on Cletus' design. Greg spec'd out several less expensive components that were either identical in value or very close to what Cletus had suggested (and he ran the changes by Cletus to make sure he wasn't missing something in the translation), and we assembled them in a MUCH smaller box with thinner walls. We learned a LOT!

Despite being mounted in boxes that ultimately proved to be too thin, neither R/R overheated during testing, and we were able to confirm that the design will NOT require an extra heat sink, though we do plan to remount the components in a slightly thicker form factor which will more effectively draw off heat.

Bottom line ... the design appears to work as advertised, and I continue to believe that this is a much better alternative to buying a used Honda unit with an unknown history and questionable future. They may very well work just fine on our bikes, but I prefer the flexibility that the custom unit provides, both for charging my glass mat battery, as well as the ability to run the bike even if the battery is dead (which OEM and commercial units won't do, so far as I know).

Like I said before, if you want to buy used on Ebay and you're happy with the result, go for it. I like the idea of new components, and I especially like the satisfaction of having built it myself.

Regards,
 
Last edited:
Planecrazy said:
and I especially like the satisfaction of having built it myself.

Regards,
ummmmm rosin!
and the bonus is you can repair it.
 
Last edited:
bakalorz said:
Hmmm... you mean like ... to regulate the voltage or something ...
If you are allowed to say, can you give me a part #, or catalog #.

Yup, but that's reality. What happens if your rectifier dies? And it dumps AC into your bike? Or how about when an SCR fails? Given the parts specs, I don't see any voltage regulation step dieing. ;-) As for the capacitor, hop on digikey, and search. I don't have the part number handy. I'm happy to share it later tonight. They were $1.74 each.
 
Boondocks said:
Why so defensive? Planecrazy mentioned Cletus's design in his post, and I replied to his post and referenced the same design by Cletus. What's the big deal with mentioning his name to identify and comment on a design? Is having skeptical criticism the same as "bashing"? This thread had nothing to do with Cletus (Berkeley) or his design until his name was first brought up by Nerobro and Planecrazy. I didn't see you going nuts over their mention of his name to identify their observations. Maybe because you agree with them but not with me?

I don't care what you think of my intelligence and posts, not a bit. In fact, when I am flamed by an overreactive mentality, it obviously reflects more on the intelligence and mentality of that party, which is no concern of mine.

On the other hand, maybe you are preoccupied with other thoughts and desires, as when you misspelled my name as "Boondicks". I don't wish to delve into your personal life, and hope you feel better soon.:-D

Boondocks,

your right, and I apologize for the insult.... this was directed at you and should not have been.#-o I'm just alittle bummed for Cletus because I know him from other forum's and his expertise is awsome to say the least. To some extent, everyone following that thread was encouraging the project, up until the cost aspect at the end. I posted in anger, trying to defend another member, and did'nt need to dor that. Letting that go now.... overreactive I guess...

As to personal life, you don't need to delve in cause I'll share... Married 12 yrs, great wife(finally let me ride again:-D ... Getting a 550L ready for her, she's geeked\\:D/ ), two kids, Jennah 7, Jared 6 (my third hand in the garage), along with fat fingers... o next to i on the keyboard.... sorry about the typo... and the flame.

ghwrenchit
 
Nerobro said:
Originally Posted by bakalorz
Hmmm... you mean like ... to regulate the voltage or something ...

Yup, but that's reality. What happens if your rectifier dies? And it dumps AC into your bike? Or how about when an SCR fails? Given the parts specs, I don't see any voltage regulation step dieing. ;-)

Sigh ... the joke is no good if I have to explain it ...
Some of the first bike regulators were just BMFZs (big .. Zeners)
I'm guessing the alternators were less powerful, and the loads were matched to them closely to let them get away with it.

Just for curiosity I checked Digikey last night. The biggest Zener they sold was 50 or 60 watts; the 14 volt one could handle about 4 amps if I remember right, a 20 volt one would be about 3 amps.
If you can parallel them (I don't know either way) you would need like 10 to protect your cap.
Digikey only stocked one wierd value, but might special order the right ones.
They were $56 each ... but there is probably a quantity discount if you get 10.
 
Yeah, I know how the old school bikes did it. You didn't have to explain it. In fact for the longest time I thought they still did it that way. We disected the stock one from my gs 550 es this weekend. Looks like SCR's or linear regs.. i'm not sure yet.
 
ghwrenchit said:
Boondocks,

your right, and I apologize for the insult.... this was directed at you and should not have been.#-o I'm just alittle bummed for Cletus because I know him from other forum's and his expertise is awsome to say the least. To some extent, everyone following that thread was encouraging the project, up until the cost aspect at the end. I posted in anger, trying to defend another member, and did'nt need to dor that. Letting that go now.... overreactive I guess...

As to personal life, you don't need to delve in cause I'll share... Married 12 yrs, great wife(finally let me ride again ... Getting a 550L ready for her, she's geeked\\:D/ ), two kids, Jennah 7, Jared 6 (my third hand in the garage), along with fat fingers... o next to i on the keyboard.... sorry about the typo... and the flame.

ghwrenchit

No hard feelings. All is forgiven.:)

Thanks for handling this situation like a man, which gains my respect. All of this argumentation is nothing more than the proverbial tempest in a teapot, and is not worth generating any bad feelings. It doesn't matter who's right and wrong, if we can learn something from the experience.

I obviously had no concerns about your personal life, but was just funning. Sounds like you have a great family. I know that kids that age are a lot of fun.

I doubt that we disagree on most things. Regards and respect.:)

Philip
 
I'm trying.

Apparently not hard enough. You have a reply to every thing I said EXCEPT a finished product. All talk and no action. Enough said. GIT R DONE. No wonder the space shuttle blew apart TWICE. Not acceptable.




---------

* Well; ok, not really a Rocket Scientist: an Aerospace Engineer ...
but Rocket Scientist sounds so much better. \\:D/[/QUOTE]
 
relic-rider said:
bakalorz said:
I'm trying.

Apparently not hard enough. You have a reply to every thing I said EXCEPT a finished product. All talk and no action. Enough said. GIT R DONE. No wonder the space shuttle blew apart TWICE. Not acceptable.

Please have someone that can explain the big words to you read post #21 in this thread to you. (it was the post exactly one post before the one you quoted above)

That post (and the end of the very first post in the thread) explains why nothing is out _YET_.
 
Status Update !

Status Update !

Posting a status update.

It took a LONG time to send out my order to Jameco electronics.

There were a bunch of other projects on the back burner, to be done "someday" ... and since I hate paying the shipping charges twice, I was trying to get everything figured out for one order. So I was spending days comparing the specs of different products on Jameco's website.

In the end, there were over 70 different items for 9 projects.
Since my regulator is currently not regulating, this will be the priority project.

It looks as if the electronics should be less than $20 for the R/R

Anyway, my stuff should arrive some time next week, and then I'll build prototypes. I plan to build one differential pair type, and one with a 2 transistor amplifier.

When I'm happy with the performance of a prototype, I'll release more info.
 
I also would like to offer my appreciation for what you are doing for those who are interested in building their own regulator rectifiers without having to pay someone for an imitation of the basic model that you used as a starting point. Even those like myself who have no plans to build one will benefit from your investigations and recommendations, giving greater insight into the workings of the shunt type regulator. Thanks in advance for making your results public knowledge instead of trying to capitalize on it.:)
 
Not sure where to go

Not sure where to go

I just purchased a new Electrex RR09 for my 1980 GS1100L, as my old one blew. Quite a smell! The problem I am experiencing is my Electrex unit has 3 yellow wires, 1 red, 1 black. The red and black are a given, however the 3 yellow, I need help with. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, looking forward to riding again!!!! John\\:D/
 
The three yellow wires on the R/R connect to the three stator wires in any order.
 
I'd like to know how this project went. I love to build projects, and this one sound like it could be a good alternative to buying a premade R/R
 
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