Tight valve symptoms?

[D.T.]

Hard starting? Coughing and popping when hot?

I'm getting a Clymer manual from the library this weekend. My buddies 1980 850 ran pretty good for the first ride of the season, then after about 1/2 hour, tried again and it was popping and missing a bit.

 

[bwringer]

Yes, all the above can be signs of the clearances on several valves being too tight.

These are also signs of intake leaks, too.

But first, get the valve clearances right.

Poke around for Basscliff's mega-welcome for the list of stuff to do to an 850.

 

[D.T.]

Where can I get the valve depressor tool so I don't have to remove the cams? Or is it pretty simple to remove the cams without throwing the timing off?

 

[bwringer]

You don't have to remove the cams -- this ain't one of those primitive Kawasakis...


The proper tool is less than $20 from several sources. Here's one:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

Once you know what shims you need, Z1 is also a good source for shims. There's also a shim club somewhere around here, or perhaps there's someone in your area with a shim kit.

There's also a horrific ghetto zip-tie method of propping open the valves that some people swear by. Search around and look for Basscliff's illustrated instructions.

 

[Steve]

You don't have to remove the cams -- this ain't one of those primitive Kawasakis...

There's also a horrific ghetto zip-tie method of propping open the valves that some people swear by. Search around and look for Basscliff's illustrated instructions.

You don't have to remove the cams on all Kawasakis, the ones I had were shim over bucket, just like the GSs.

Don't know how "horrific" it is, but the zip-tie method is my method of choice.
I have the tool, but have a hard time using it. Zip-ties work every time.

Maybe it's a training issue, maybe it's a tool issue (non-OEM tool), but it's just too hard to use for me.

.

 

[D.T.]

You don't have to remove the cams on all Kawasakis, the ones I had were shim over bucket, just like the GSs.

Don't know how "horrific" it is, but the zip-tie method is my method of choice.
I have the tool, but have a hard time using it. Zip-ties work every time.

Maybe it's a training issue, maybe it's a tool issue (non-OEM tool), but it's just too hard to use for me.

.

So how does the cable tie method work?

Cheap bastard is my middle name! :-$

 

[mike_of_bbg]

So how does the cable tie method work?

Cheap bastard is my middle name! :-$

From BassCliff's ever-so-helpful site:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/valve_tool_zip_tie.pdf

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. D.T.,

I'll save you the trouble of finding your "mega-welcome". Here are the necessary links...

Mega-Welcome Page

BikeCliff website

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)
Zip Tie Supplement(by Mr. Matchless)​

Read 'em, learn 'em, love 'em!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[TheCafeKid]

Hi Mr. D.T.,

I'll save you the trouble of finding your "mega-welcome". Here are the necessary links...

Mega-Welcome Page

BikeCliff website

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)
Zip Tie Supplement(by Mr. Matchless)​

Read 'em, lean 'em, love 'em!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

you forgot your "R" in 'learn' there Cliff... sounds sorta kinky without it..

 

[Steve]

you forgot your "R" in 'learn' there Cliff... sounds sorta kinky without it..

Yeah, I noticed that, too.

.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I'll try to proofread better.

I's a gud speler mosta da time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[bwringer]

Don't know how "horrific" it is, but the zip-tie method is my method of choice.
I have the tool, but have a hard time using it. Zip-ties work every time.

Maybe it's a training issue, maybe it's a tool issue (non-OEM tool), but it's just too hard to use for me.

.

Trolling's so easy sometimes... :twistedevil:

Yes, the zip-ties work, but the tappet depressor tool is much faster.

I will agree that the tappet tool seems to take a certain "touch" to work. I usually don't have much trouble, but a lot of people do. Next time through, we'll have to figure out what I'm doing differently and document the difference. I think perhaps I'm angling the tool differently.

 

[Steve]

I guess I'll just have to come over some time and get a lesson on how to use the tool properly.

Kinda like learning to ride. You can do it yourself and make lots of mistakes, hopefully learn from them or you can learn from a pro.

.

 

[Dave8338]

Trolling's so easy sometimes... :twistedevil:

Yes, the zip-ties work, but the tappet depressor tool is much faster.

I will agree that the tappet tool seems to take a certain "touch" to work. I usually don't have much trouble, but a lot of people do. Next time through, we'll have to figure out what I'm doing differently and document the difference. I think perhaps I'm angling the tool differently.

Good things happen, with a properly angled tool...

Sorry, Brian, I had to point it out!

 

[Guest]

You can have a shim out and in within five minutes with the tool. I'd say even less.

 

[979roadrunner]

You don't have to remove the cams -- this ain't one of those primitive Kawasakis...


The proper tool is less than $20 from several sources. Here's one:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

Once you know what shims you need, Z1 is also a good source for shims. There's also a shim club somewhere around here, or perhaps there's someone in your area with a shim kit.

There's also a horrific ghetto zip-tie method of propping open the valves that some people swear by. Search around and look for Basscliff's illustrated instructions.

Hah! My Kawsaki was even more primitive...and easier. Used a threaded tip in the rocker with a locknut, just like an old OHV Chevy with solid lifters. No shims, no buckets, no sweat. (EX500)