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Guest
Guest
lol, do i need to buy the rake as well?
i would like to save some money so i was thinking of buying the handle only.
have you got that, hikermikem?
i would like to save some money so i was thinking of buying the handle only.
have you got that, hikermikem?
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Suzuki_Don
Guest
Now this is the REAL FACTORY TOOL. For 550 and 650s.
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cruisingram
Guest
Well, I just made one when I needed it- just found a square piece of metal, in this case, a ruined and used to death square file that I pulled out of the scrap metal bin at the university. Since it was tapered, I just kept cutting off bits of the end until it fit in the socket. Then I welded it to an old chinese made cheap socket. Viola'- Fork tool made for 0$ spent LOL, not to mention, I was able to finish the fork job in a couple hours instead of looking for a special tool.
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Guest
Guest
many thanks for the pics, don and cruisingram!
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Suzuki_Don
Guest
Personally, I'd rather use the broomstick method as that just puts pressure on the top of the damper rod to stop it from turning. And this pressure can be altered and increased if the damper rod still turns by turning the top fork nut in a couple of more turns.
The way I see it the factory tool (or file) made from hardened steel will cause damage to the inside of the damper rod which is made from aluminium.
The way I see it the factory tool (or file) made from hardened steel will cause damage to the inside of the damper rod which is made from aluminium.
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Theo
Guest
This is what I did. Except on my forks, the flats were all the way in the bottom of the oil tube...and I used a 5/16" nut. I had to use a 5/16" coupler on the end and threaded only halfway. The other half I drilled out so that the screw could be screwed in with out catching on the nut. Just saying that every fork is not the same. Some have the flat at the bottom of the tube.
I see that this issue has basically been resolved, but thought I would add a bit for others that might read it.
Yes, it's 19 mm across the flats. You can make a tool using about $5 of parts from your hardware store and no welder.
Get a 2-foot length of 1/2" all-thread rod and four nuts. Put two nuts on each end, leave about an inch of rod sticking out, jamb the nuts together.
Put the 'tool' into the fork leg, the rod that is sticking out will help locate it in the damping rod. Use a wrench on the inner nut on the upper stack to remove the damper rod.
When re-assembling, remember it's the speed of the impact that will be doing the work. Be careful to not over-torque it.
I have not read BassCliff's directions, but can't imagine installing the seal first. The best way I have found is to assemble the inner and outer fork legs, lube the seal so it slides nicely, slide the seal into place. I use a piece of PVC tubing as you suggest. The fork tubes on my 850s will just barely fit into the PVC, but not slide easily, so I cut a slit down the length so the PVC can expand just a bit. Make sure that the end of the PVC is cut squarely and that it's longer than the inner fork tube. Tap on the end of the PVC (yeah, a cap on the end might help), the seal gets driven into place very nicely.
I have not worked on 550 forks for comparison, but I agree, the seal is almost the last thing to into the assembly.
