Tool / How-To for steering stem bearing removal?

[Joe Garfield]

Do you guys have suggestions for a DIY tool for steering stem bearing removal? The lower bearing/outer race (inside the bike frame) is probably the biggest challenge for me, followed by the lower bearing inner race (around the steering stem), which I think a bigger hammer and cold chisel might get me a little more progress on that part, but we'll see.

Ultimately I am after a (cheap) tool to get the lower race out of the steering stem tube in the bike frame.

Sorry if this is widely available information, I looked a little but have a ton going on and want to get this bike done soon.

 

[Sandy]

For the harder to remove lower bearing. Brass drift or equivalent, hammer and your least favorite large flat blade screwdriver and a third hand if needed, I used a bungie to hold the drift. Insert the screwdriver through the lower bearing hole and rest on the top edge of the bearing and hold firmly. Through the top hole insert the drift onto the screwdriver as close to the end as possible and gently beat on it. Move the screwdriver around the bearing race so you're not hitting in the same place all the time. I did my 750 this winter and once I figured this out it took about 2 minutes to get the lower race out. There's usually enough lip showing on the upper bearing race to just use the brass drift.

 

[posplayr]

For the lower inner race, as I recall I used a long bolt, that was bent with a 5 lbs sledge and a large vice. Grind the tip to give some bite and it should knock out. Others use a dremel with a small cutting wheel to cut them out(my favorite for the lowers steering stem bearing). Others weld a short stick across and the heat makes the lower race fall right out.

 

[jsandidge]

I used a tire iron as a punch for the lower inner race. Has just enough curve at the end to get a purchase on the lip. Then, the dremel cutoff wheel for the lower bearing.

 

[Joe Garfield]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the ideas

 

[Steve]

You can also use a Dremel rotary tool with a large cut-off wheel.

Cut the race twice, it will look like this when it falls out.

Don't worry too much about nicking the frame, the bearings ride on the races, not the frame, so a small nick or cut won't matter.

.

 

[Guest]

You can take a length of harden steel rod 1/2 inch or a bit bigger ( gotta be strong enough to with stand some good hammer blows) and at one end heat it up and make a slight S curve in it. Just enough to make the bend over the top of the race. Take hammer and tap it out. I had one, though must have lost it in a move years ago or I would show you a pic of it.

 

[Joe Garfield]

So I've cut twice through the bottom race inside the bike frame and it still won't come out. I can't even break loose the 1" piece that's in the middle. I don't understand what the eff is going on. I'm not having luck with finding the right tool to punch from the top and I'm not setup to be heating things red hot or bending steel.

 

[posplayr]

So I've cut twice through the bottom race inside the bike frame and it still won't come out. I can't even break loose the 1" piece that's in the middle. I don't understand what the eff is going on. I'm not having luck with finding the right tool to punch from the top and I'm not setup to be heating things red hot or bending steel.

I can only imagine it is rusted up as the thing should just fall out. Are you sure you are cutting the race? The other technique is to weld a bolt across the race. The heat makes it just fall out.

If you have never welded I would at least get a HF $99 welder. It is indispensible in certain situations. Also get a flap wheel to clean up the welds as it is not the greatest but it does work.

 

[Joe Garfield]

It looks like i'm down into the frame of the bike for the length of both cuts (I know it's not that critical but I feel horrible about the cuts at this point - they look bad).

The bike was in an accident and suffered significant damage to the forks and triple tree. I wonder if the bottom of the frame is bent a little, but it should still pop out with the cuts. I haven't seen much rust at all on this bike, but there could be a little in there.

I have only welded once at a friend's place - he is a fabricator and I used his mig welder. I would love welding equipment but don't have the funds for the stuff I've looked at - I think the tanks are the part that are expensive. I've read that it's not worth getting anything except a mig welder, but then I hear it would be nice to have a stick welder. I don't even know what that is or what is worth getting.

I was looking at torches I could use for cutting and possibly some welding. I guess I'm confused between electric and gas powered welders. I have a plumber's torch with 3 different tips that runs on mapp gas, and truthfully I don't know what I'm doing with it yet.

I just finished putting a surface grind on the thermal barrier coating I had sprayed on 6 fuel injectors for a business jet and was feeling pretty good about things. After working on this bearing and talking about how little I know about torches and welding equipment I feel like the manliness just went back down the 5hitter.

 

[posplayr]

By all measures this is a peice of crap but it saved my bacon plenty of times. For about $150 you can get a name brand that will do much better and still run on 120VAC.

http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-ac-120-volt-flux-cored-welder-68887.html

As for your current problem, with a dremel you should be able to section the race enough then pop it with a bent bolt and get it out of there.

 

[Joe Garfield]

Thank you. With a properly bent tool, the bearing seat popped right out.

I have not been myself lately.

 

[GS-cafe]

easiest way is to weld a bead around the full race of the bearing, it just fall out when it cools down..

 

[Joe Garfield]

I just got a $100 gift award from work. I'm looking at a little flux core welder. It's pretty low on the priority list though, so we'll see what happens.

 

[posplayr]

I just got a $100 gift award from work. I'm looking at a little flux core welder. It's pretty low on the priority list though, so we'll see what happens.

If you can stretch the funds, get a name brand like Hobart. If nothing else the HF works but it needs some mods and can be frustrating. You have to willing to tinker with it. Like cut down the main cable to reduce drag.

This is very similar to the HF one I have. You can also check out the review at HF.

http://www.amazon.com/120v-Portable...5&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=acid+core+welder+120V