torque spec/tips on valve gasket and some extra questions

[timebombprod]

what are the torque specs ( or recommended spec by you) for the breather valve gasket, the valve cover gasket, and the oil pan gasket. with getting the old gasket off the oil-pan, id say a knife is impractical, is there a good method to not damage the metal from your pan?

 

[Steve]

M6 x 1.0 bolts in aluminum are specified at 6.0 - 7.5 lb.-ft. of torque.

.

 

[prichmon]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E612L3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works wonders for removing gasket material with a die grinder.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you're going to use a torque wrench to put your valve cover back on, you're going to want one calibrated in in-lb (or lb-in depending on who you ask). Multiply the ft-lb torque spec from your service manual (you have one, right?) x 12 to get in-lb.

The advice I was given when I did my first valve clearance on my bike was that it takes less force than you would think, it's a "feel" thing. Well, having never done it before, I don't have a "feel" for it. So I bought and used an in-lb torque wrench for @$50 on amazon. I still tightened the darn thing too much, twice, and ruined 2 gaskets. At @$40 a gasket, those were kind of expensive mistakes on my part.

 

[Rijko]

The advice I was given when I did my first valve clearance on my bike was that it takes less force than you would think, it's a "feel" thing. Well, having never done it before, I don't have a "feel" for it. So I bought and used an in-lb torque wrench for @$50 on amazon. I still tightened the darn thing too much, twice, and ruined 2 gaskets. At @$40 a gasket, those were kind of expensive mistakes on my part.

Be thankful you only ruined the gaskets ... i think it is a "feel" thing.
The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.
Increasing problems is trying to be nice to the bike by putting a dab of
lubricant on the bolts.
These were meant to be installed dry.
(i like lubricant on them, must be from working on 2-strokes)

The torque specs take into account the friction the mating thread surfaces
create and lubricant reduces that friction by a huge amount like 30% or so.
So torqueing a lubricated bolt with correct torque into a tired thread
will result in a stripped hole .... many times.

I always run a tap through these to clean up the threads.
And then a bolt, to try and feel the thread for hickups or play.
If i cannot easily run the bolt in with 2 fingers all the way, usually
that means it's time to break out the helicoils.
This reduces, not eliminates, the number of stripped threads.

Remember, the only thing all those bolts have to do is keep the parts
from falling off the bike and put just enough pressure on the gasket
to stop leaks.

 

[Guest]

+1 on low-end torque specs for the valve cover

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Increasing problems is trying to be nice to the bike by putting a dab of
lubricant on the bolts.

I didn't lube the bolts when I installed the cover, but I did follow a bunch of peoples advise and greased the gasket (for easy removal and possible re-use next valve adjustment). I don't think that helped me. The third time, the time that I didn't squish and tear the gasket, I put it on dry (I believe it was Steve that suggested that, if memory serves.) I plan on sticking to regular valve adjustment intervals (don't remember off the top of my head what that is) so time/miles will tell if the gasket sticks and breaks or comes off clean. Either way, I don't think I would trust re-using it.

 

[Rijko]

I didn't lube the bolts when I installed the cover, but I did follow a bunch of peoples advise and greased the gasket (for easy removal and possible re-use next valve adjustment). I don't think that helped me. The third time, the time that I didn't squish and tear the gasket, I put it on dry (I believe it was Steve that suggested that, if memory serves.) I plan on sticking to regular valve adjustment intervals (don't remember off the top of my head what that is) so time/miles will tell if the gasket sticks and breaks or comes off clean. Either way, I don't think I would trust re-using it.

yeah .. those come up with arguments about cost, re-use and lots of good
experiences with the grease method.
I have nothing against that, but i install them dry with monotonous success
As for cost .. for the price of a new fresh valve cover gasket i like to
use a new one and reduce the chance of having to pull the cover and replace
if it fails... and i'm Dutch

 

[tom203]

?The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.?

This happened to me this valve check time...fortunately a longer bolt grabbed some new aluminum

 

[Rijko]

“The tired threads in the aluminium cannot take what they used to,
so tightening to spec will ruin threads every so often.”

This happened to me this valve check time...fortunately a longer bolt grabbed some new aluminum

You will probably strip that thread next time.

This is what i fondly think of as yin/yang and the "PO rant origin".
Our collective experience tells/learns us to accept some practices
Suzuki and a lot of mechanics would frown on.

I keep a log on all my bikes and have done the same thing,
but will record in the log that i will need to place a helicoil next time.

Lazy maybe, but if it holds without leaking it's good enough sometimes
and it saves a lot of time.
Should i sell the bike (the one in my avatar - will NOT ever sell it if not
absolutely necessary), the next owner will probably rant about me
because he strips the thread immediately.

oh well, come on and flame me for not doing it right every time
I accept and respect that, it's just sometimes i do not have or want to spend the time.

Last time that happened to me, i was preparing the bike for a trip to the UK
the next day. "everything" worked against me and the last bolt i
tightened on that *(&*&^% cam cover stripped.
A longer bolt grabbed enough flesh to feel tight enough and it is still ok.
At 3 AM, having to leave at 9, i just had enough. Good enough is good enough.

BTW a guy like Steve who does this professionally and *really* knows his stuff
is someone to listen to.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

....BTW a guy like Steve who does this professionally and *really* knows his stuff
is someone to listen to.

Don’t I know it! If not for him and a few other very helpful gentlemen on this forum, I probably would have given up on my bike long ago.

 

[tom203]

?You will probably strip that thread next time.?

yes, I made a note to check all before reinstalling cover next time....if there is a next time for me with this coronavirus stuff! I like to leave the next guy no surprises!

 

[Guest]

The universal rule for stripping threads is as follows:-

Not using the bike for weeks..... no threads will strip
Using the bike come whatever may in the morning.... stupid thread will strip
Part that needs to stay put or stay sealed.......will definitely strip but only if you don't have time to fix it
When you forget something and need to strip the offending part off and re-do the job...?guaranteed to strip

 

[Guest]

Hello, all...if I need to start a different thread, let me know. In cranking up my ‘80 GS1100L a couple of weeks ago, in prep for getting her ready to sell, after running up the street and back, I noticed some oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, right in the center. So, I’ve removed everything, and cleaning the old gasket and sealant off the valve cover (and especially) the engine was a pain. So...just want to be sure...am I to coat the gasket on both sides with sealant (of course I will the half moons; I have used the ThreeBond liquid gasket), or install dry (except for the half moons), or other suggestions? Just want to make sure I do it right.

PS ..and no blue thread lock on the cover bolts, correct?

 

[RustyTank]

Hello, all...if I need to start a different thread, let me know. In cranking up my ‘80 GS1100L a couple of weeks ago, in prep for getting her ready to sell, after running up the street and back, I noticed some oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, right in the center. So, I’ve removed everything, and cleaning the old gasket and sealant off the valve cover (and especially) the engine was a pain. So...just want to be sure...am I to coat the gasket on both sides with sealant (of course I will the half moons; I have used the ThreeBond liquid gasket), or install dry (except for the half moons), or other suggestions? Just want to make sure I do it right.

PS ..and no blue thread lock on the cover bolts, correct?

I've hijacked my share of threads here and there, but generally speaking it's good form to start your own thread that has to do with you're particular issue. That said, people are fairly loose around here and may answer your question/s regardless.

P.S. I want your bike

 

[GregT]

Hello, all...if I need to start a different thread, let me know. In cranking up my ?80 GS1100L a couple of weeks ago, in prep for getting her ready to sell, after running up the street and back, I noticed some oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, right in the center. So, I?ve removed everything, and cleaning the old gasket and sealant off the valve cover (and especially) the engine was a pain. So...just want to be sure...am I to coat the gasket on both sides with sealant (of course I will the half moons; I have used the ThreeBond liquid gasket), or install dry (except for the half moons), or other suggestions? Just want to make sure I do it right.

PS ..and no blue thread lock on the cover bolts, correct?

Put the gasket on dry and a thin layer of threebond on the cover rim. This will stick the gasket to the cover so that it can be reused when the cover is next removed. Yes, threebond on the halfmoons.
And definitely no loctite on the cover screws.

 

[Guest]

Perfect, GregT. Thank you so much.