Torque Wrench Advice

[twr1776]

I was looking at a 3/8" drive with a shorter handle length for smaller bolts and have seen the clicker types in various brands. I saw some from Sears but read some nasty reviews in a couple of different locations. Has anyone bought this type for a reasonable price and with decent quality and range? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Dink]

I have a 3/8" clicker style torque wrench. I find it unreliable & endup using my 1/2" with an adaptor.

Dink

 

[marvinsc]

Beware the Can of Worms You Open! 8-[ Seriously, a Lot of Click Type Torque Wrenches are "Approximate" at Best but I'm Sure Quality is Erratic on All of them Between Brands!

 

[twr1776]

Sounds like the too good to be true theory. The old bar type must still be the way to go then. I thought I was safe by not mentioning oil to avoid the can o worms.

 

[marvinsc]

Or Shaft VS Chain!:-D

 

[Planecrazy]

Keith, Keith, Keith ... DON'T READ THIS THREAD ANY FURTHER, REGARDLESS OF HOW TEMPTING IT MIGHT BE ... and DON'T respond!! No good can come from it! "Use the force Luke" Resist the dark side!!! (Just kidding, buddy!):shock:8-[:lol:;-)

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Keith, Keith, Keith ... DON'T READ THIS THREAD ANY FURTHER, REGARDLESS OF HOW TEMPTING IT MIGHT BE ... and DON'T respond!! No good can come from it! "Use the force Luke" Resist the dark side!!! (Just kidding, buddy!):shock:8-[:lol:

Dumb assed beam type wrenches.:twisted: Nothing but mutated breaker bars if you ask me. To each their own.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, what the bleep did you think I'd say? :lol:

 

[Giblet]

Well, what the bleep did you think I'd say? :lol:

Whew! That was close. I thought we were going :shock: "there" again for sure. Any how, I use a 3/8" Craftsman clicker (in.lbs.) and a 1/2" drive (ft.lbs.). ALMOST anything is better than nothing. Apparently the guys that rebuilt the tranny in my Stratus didn't use anything. When I had to pull the pan after my son knocked a hole in it, the threads came out with the bolt in 4 holes.

 

[Planecrazy]

Well, what the bleep did you think I'd say? :lol:

I only knew it would be good for a laugh!!\\/:lol:;-)

Enjoy,

 

[twr1776]

So, speaking of oil additives (OOPS I DIGRESSED), it sounds like there is no general consensus on torque wrenches? I have to get ready for the Brown County rally this year (first one for me) and don't want to get kicked out for improperly torqued bolts.

 

[marvinsc]

Be there or Be Square! As Mentioned, Any Torque Wrench Beats Nothing. That Being Said, I am in Parts Procurement at a Manufacturing Facility and Have Had BENT Torque Wrenches Returned For Replacement!:shock:

 

[49er]

Did someone mention oils?

All torque wenches have some degree of error throughout their range.
The clickers are probably the least accurate but are the most reliable audibly.
The pointer type is used visually, but can be inaccurate if not viewed correctly from directly above the graduations.
The push button reset type (dual signal) are the most robust and accurate. However, their accuracy can be dramatically lost should the operator forget to reset the indicator button before moving on to torgue up the next stud/bolt.
And then there's the correct torqueing proceedure, well what's another debate.
As said earlier, any torqueing is better than none.

 

[marvinsc]

And So it Goes!:-D

 

[POULSEN]

Torquewrenches have (at least) two different kind of errors:
Missing repeatability and/or missing calibration.

With missing repatability throw it away, but it is fairly easy to recalibrate a torquewrench. (I have made a Low-tech presentation at: http://home20.inet.tele.dk/xxxxx/torquewrench.htm for inspiration).

Stig

 

[Dave8338]

I was looking at a 3/8" drive with a shorter handle length for smaller bolts and have seen the clicker types in various brands. I saw some from Sears but read some nasty reviews in a couple of different locations. Has anyone bought this type for a reasonable price and with decent quality and range? Thanks for any advice.

I go old school when it comes to torque wrenches. Show me the needle indicator and I'll tell you if the bolt is stretching, threads are pulling out or if you have a good solid set on it. The "clicker" type just tells you when you've reached the selected torque spec, where as watching the needle tells the story and lets you know if you've reached the limits of the situation ie. "It won't hold the speck, we better quit now, befor we're looking for the easy outs and a tap and die set" !! [-o<

 

[jimcor]

Follow my advice: "Never get in an argument with a woman that's holding ANY torque wrench." :shock:

And use German torque settings: "Gudundtite"

 

[Giblet]

I go old school when it comes to torque wrenches. Show me the needle indicator and I'll tell you if the bolt is stretching, threads are pulling out or if you have a good solid set on it. The "clicker" type just tells you when you've reached the selected torque spec, where as watching the needle tells the story and lets you know if you've reached the limits of the situation ie. "It won't hold the speck, we better quit now, befor we're looking for the easy outs and a tap and die set" !! [-o<

What are you trying to do? Put Helicoil out of business?

 

[Dave8338]

What are you trying to do? Put Helicoil out of business?

No, just save myself and others a great deal of headache when it can be completely avoided. I'll pass on the extra work as it is directly proportional to the length of time that I get to enjoy my toys! :-D

 

[rustybronco]

I own three, 3/8" click in-lbs, 3/8" beam in-lbs, 1/2" click ('76 craftsman) ft-lbs better to use them than not, love my 1/2" craftsman never broke a bolt in 30 years torquing them just make sure they're not streched first.