Tscu rebuilding

[bakalorz]

Martin, Martin (wallowgreen) has already built one of the first generation TSCU's. it might pay to PM him any questions/thoughts/issues you might have before you start back into designing your own.

I saw that ... he used a motorola part if I remember right ...
The PICs are different enough that not much will carry over.

Maybe the input circuitry, but even that is likely to be different.
His statement that the biggest problem was noise is something I pretty much expected, but it was good to have it confirmed.

But aside from the input conditioning, the rest of the electronics is pretty much trivial.

for second part of your question, as far as I know the 78-79 GS1000E's, the 79 GS850G's and the 79 L models used the same switch.

So any 1000 or 850, but none of the others, and 78-79 are first type, and 80 is the other ... do they all have the switched headlight though ?

and lastly, personally I wouldn't use the release of the brake light for the start point of a count down timer. at a stop, when some is approaching from behind, I like to modulate the brake light.

The plan was to have it start the counter on release of the brakes ... if you reapply the brakes before the counter runs out, the counter resets.
So as long as you modulate faster than once every five seconds the counter never runs out
(I guess if you have a "stuck" on stop-light that would keep your turns on forever too ... which might actually be good in that it alerts you to the stuck on stop-light)

 

[bakalorz]

Martin, my 1980 has the light switch on the right handlebar controls as they were standard for our country at the time.
How about one TSCU that will replace either type?

It would have to be two models to deal with the different early canceling schemes ... the rest is identical.

I will design both, but one will have to be untested ... unless someone wants to send me one of each of the control switches ...

 

[rustybronco]

Martin I am no expert. but as I know it, for what were are discussing, there are two type of LH controls used in the USA. the 78-79 models used a three position turn signal switch; momentary left- momentary cancel (down) -momentary right. you could turn the headlights lights on and off by a separate light switch.

the 80-up used a five position signal switch; left momentary (auto cancel)- left - center (off)- right- right momentary (auto cancel) and the knob was pushed in to cancel. the same knob also served as the hi/lo headlight switch by pushing it up or down.

but one will have to be untested ... unless someone wants to send me one of each of the control switches ...

for the early style switch, all you will need is three momentary contact switches.

 

[PoppaDre]

What relays do i need to wire up? Will any relay do? do i still need the flasher relay?

 

[Matchless]

Look at post #21 and #48.
Unplug the TSCU and in the plug find the wires Blue and Blue/Black. Connect a two pin flasher unit to them and do the same for Green and Green/Black with a second flasher.
Now remove the spring from your turn signal switch and you should have working flashers, albeit no self cancelling.

 

[chuck hahn]

Andre...I have 2 non working units that I want to do the two flasher mod to. So how do i remove that hard sealer that holds the guts into the case without damaging it? It obviously needs to be softened in some way..or melted out.

 

[rustybronco]

Chuck, for all reasonable intents and purposes you will need to destroy the plastic part of the case to remove the insides. but, if you are careful, you might be able to use a drill bit and 'router' out the insides of plastic portion of the TSCU.

 

[chuck hahn]

Cool...I just want to get thru that sealer stuff andnce i do will the mother board and guts just slide out?? I even thought of a pot of boiling water for a while to see if it will soften enough to pull the guts out that way???

 

[rustybronco]

Other than destroying them, you're not going to remove the insides. they won't side out. I had to grind the case away to un-pot one that I have.

 

[chuck hahn]

My idea was to hide the two units inside the hollowed out unit and install it so it looks oem. Have you tried boiling or a solvent soak that wont eat plastics or ABS??

 

[rustybronco]

No I haven't. but the components are potted in 'epoxy' not rubber or silicone and are well bonded to the plastic case.

 

[rustybronco]

Hide the flashers under the metal cover...

 

[chuck hahn]

I see.. Probably vice one up and use progressively bigger bits and drill me a nice hollow into one then.

 

[chuck hahn]

Thought of that too but by eye it doesnt look like enough room?? Unless i can find some pretty small ones that will cram in there.

 

[Matchless]

Chuck,
I have not opened a 1st generation TSCU, but did so with a 2nd generation. The plastic case on that one was quite flexable and by sliding a flat screwdriver in I could separate the two. I gently heated the rear with my hot air gun and pulled the insides out. I was then confronted with a lump of epoxy. By dipping it overnight in acetone the epoxy softens for a few millimeters and you can scrape away until it becomes too a hard, then soak and repeat again.
Hope it works on yours as well.

 

[chuck hahn]

I just want the guts out of the plastic case while leaving the case intact and undamaged..I plan on throwing the guts and mother board away and placing the 2 flasher units inside and making "look" OEM. I dont care if they are self cancelling or not.

 

[Matchless]

I just want the guts out of the plastic case while leaving the case intact and undamaged..I plan on throwing the guts and mother board away and placing the 2 flasher units inside and making "look" OEM. I dont care if they are self cancelling or not.

Chuck,
I just had a look at the box of the 1980 one I removed the insides from and it is definitely quite flexible. It does not use a mounting rubber, the mounting is part of the box.
If yours is the same, try prying the casing from the epoxy filled block with a flat blade screw driver.

 

[PoppaDre]

so would i use the flasher relays from the bike or can i use just a standard automotive relay. is there a certain amperage to use?

 

[chuck hahn]

Andre..it has the little lip molded into the case that fits into the battery box...then its held in with the thick black rubber strap with the rectangular metal clasps at each end.

 

[Matchless]

so would i use the flasher relays from the bike or can i use just a standard automotive relay. is there a certain amperage to use?

You can use a standard load dependent 2 pin 12V automotive flasher if using front and rear bulbs of 21 W each or a 3 pin electronic type (which requires an additional ground wire) and is not load dependent and can run either 10W or 21 W bulbs.