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Tuning for pods with Dynojet stage 3 kit

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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So I thought I'd bring everyone up to date on my adventures in carb tuning.
A little back ground is in order. This is a '78 1000 with a V&H 4 into 1, K & N filters and Dyna ignition and coils. The head has been ported and milled and has a pair of Mega-Cycle cams installed. Due to a massive over rev while drag racing and missing 2nd gear, the crank has been indexed and welded.
After numerous attempts at tuning with the Dynojet kit on my own, I became frustrated and took the bike to a reputable shop so they could sort it out. Unfortunatly their efforts were only marginally more fruitful than my own.
This bike ran like the wind at top end. How's a high 10 second quarter mile time sound. With the baffle removed from the exhaust, you could see flames shooting from the tail pipe. What a beast! Wheelies and burn outs with the mere twist of the wrist. How much fun can one person have?
The problem was, the drivability was for $hi#! While the overly rich idle circuit made the bike pull decent off the line the needles were so lean that adding a little choke was the only way to cruise along at respectful speeds. Think of the fun of driving up to a red light and down shifting, braking and turning off a carb mounted choke all at the same time. How many left hands does one man need?
About a month ago, Thunder Dan posted that he would like to take the leap into the dark world of pod filters. Oh you poor misguided man I thought. I could not stand by and watch another fellow GS'r go down the dark path. "Don't do it!" I cried. Save yourself from this tragedy.
Along comes Keith Krause. He says it can be done. He has obviously been sniffing too many exhaust fumes.
Well, to make a long post longer. There is this instruction booklet that comes with the jet kit. And buried deep in the booklet is a sentence that should be read and understood. It can be chanted as a mantra if you wish. For it seems these guys at Dynojet Research have a slight clue as to what they are doing. Yes, as amazing as it appears on the surface, they put a lot of research into their jet kits. Hence the second part of their company name. That one overlooked sentence that held me and a coulple of good bike shops back from making this sweet bike into a sweet driving ride.
"If your bike cannot pass tests 1,2 and 3, your machine may be running at less than designed efficiency." In other words, It's not always the carburetors stupid, check to see what else is messed up!
So with Keith's help and some adjustable cam gears, the cam shafts are no longer at the ridiculously high lobe centers of 117 and 115 degrees. Nothing like a stretched chain to throw things out of whack.
So, the point is, you can have a nice running bike with 26mm carbs and pod filters. It just takes some time to tune them in. Currently settings on my carbs are as follows. Pilot screws at 1 1/2 turns, idle air screws at 1 3/4 turns, needles at #4 position and 138 main jets. The bike runs well now. Not perfect, but worlds better than it was. The only real problem right now is a flat spot at 5000 rpm at wide open throttle. I'm gong to try the 142 main jets as it seems a bit lean at the top end as well.

Steve
 
thanks for taking the time to feed us knowledge and information.
 
Here's a new one for me.
I went to install the 142 main jets and there is corosion on the gasket surface of the float bowls. No dirt or anything anywhere else. Weird.
I ordered 4 rebuild kits and am waiting for them. Will get back to tuning later this week.

Steve
 
For those of you who have not done this before, a quick synopsis (yeah right).
When you get your kit you will recieve an instruction sheet with base settings for your carbs. You install the new parts and jet to these base settings. What's not in the instructions and I feel is important is to sync the carbs each time you change the settings. I may be wrong, but it seems to work better this way.
Now the fun begins. They give you three tests to run to determine how well the jetting works for your bike. The tests are based on different throttle positions. Test one is for the idle circuit which is the least amount of throttle opening. Test two is for the needles and is any where from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Test three is for full throttle acceleration.
The hard part is that all three circuits of the carbs overlap. Adjusting your air bleed screws mainly affects your idle but will also affect the middle, and to a minor extent, full throttle jetting. Changing the main jets more than likley will cause you to change the needle position.
So, you jet the carbs and then ride the bike for 10 to 20 minutes to run the tests. You re-jet the carbs and re-run the tests. It gets maddening. I've jetted and tested 5 times now. When I change the main jet, I imagine I will have to change the needles once or twice more to acheive the final jetting.
Tomorrow I'll post my notes from testing.

Steve
 
Thanks wheelie for posting the reality of tuning carbs.


I thought a jet kit would just bolt in and give me gobs of power increase. :lol: :lol: Lots of luck. :lol: :? :? :?
 
My carb kits finally arrived!
So, yesterday I installed all the parts and put the carbs back on. Today it got up to 45 degrees here so when I got home from work I started tuning and testing again. I installed the 142 main jets. On the Dynojet guys advice, I left everything else alone. I think this advice was good and bad. By just changing the mains, I could tell what affect they had on my 5000 rpm flat spot. It has cleared up considerably. The problem is the tests to get the jetting correct are based on the lean settings they tell you to start with. So now it seems I'm doing things backwards.
I'm letting the bike cool down as I type this. Right now the jetting is as follows. Mains 142, needels #3, Pilot 1 3/4 turns, air bleed 1 3/4 turns. I just richened up the pilots 1/2 turn.
When riding it I was richening the air bleeds to the point where the idle was good (test 1) but the mid range was suffering. I moved the needles to one step leaner because I had just gone to the bigger main jet and the bike ran real choppy on hard acceleration unitil about 5000 rpm then cleared up. The mains seem good as this thing is pulling hard to 9000. I'll probably move the needles 1/2 step leaner depending on how the new pilot setting is.
Back to jetting!

Steve
 
Here's a helpful hint.
After syncing teh carbs, it is required that you tihgten the locknuts on the adjusting screws.
It just about drove me crazy, I couldn't figure out why the idle kept climbing and climbing. DUMB A$$!
 
Hi Wheelie,Keith again.A few weeks back I decided to play with my jetting 'one more time' on a mission to make it perfect.As I said earlier,the bike ran great except for a few 'spits' on cold mornings while warming up.However,the plugs still read slightly lean.I always heard it's better to error on the rich side if you can't get it perfect.Most people would have left it alone,but I went ahead and moved the needle up 1/2 a position to #4 with the clip on top.Now I've opened a can of worms.Because of the 'overlap' effect the needle has on the pilot circuit,the minor spitting should have gone,but somehow it actually increased.Plus I have some hesitation.Now I'm trying to adjust the pilot and air screws to make it right.I have found that adjusting the air screws out 1 turn and the pilots 1 1/2 will stop the spitting and hesitation. My plugs are running a medium gray.Reading plugs is driving me nuts.I've found that a 15 mile test read that looked good,will change after a couple days of riding to work,even with the weather staying the same. Anyway,the bike is running good again,but does not feel as strong.It's running a little stronger in the morning than coming home.So that tells me it's rich but the plugs say lean.Also the slight hesitation at 60-70 mph is more noticable in the afternoon.(mid-80s this week) I can't understand how richening the needle can result in leaner conditions.I'm going to try a different combination with the screws. I'll try the air out at 2 or 2 1/2 and the pilots at 2 1/2 or more.If this fails I can at least go back to where I am now,or even go back to my settings with the clip in #3. I'll keep playing with it. I still think the clip should be at #4 with the clip on top.With your lower temps I think you will run even leaner than mine did at #3. Remember,a motor running a little lean will fool you because it makes more power.Drag racers set up their motors this way,but it's not good in the long run.So judging by the seat of your pants does'nt always work.Anyway,I'm taking a vacation,so if you do ask something I might be able to help you with or want to compare notes,I'll be back April 21. Good luck and please post your results,good or bad,it might help me or someone else. KK.
 
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