Used engine parts...

[BigD_83]

When buying used engine assemblies that you can't see firsthand (e.g. EBay) what kinds of questions should be asked of the seller?

Obviously, getting more of and the best detailed photos of the part is one.

VIN/serial numbers from the part to ensure the correct one is sent is another I can think of.

What about pointed questions that reveal information about the condition that the seller may not be revealing?

Specifically, I'm thinking about picking up a head for my 650 at a rather reasonable price, but I don't want to just throw away $90.00 either.

 

[tom203]

Remember that 83 cylinder head is slightly different than some 82's and all 81's. An extra cam cover bolt was added at front for some reason halfway thru model year 82 -maybe other stuff.
Ebay strippers are trying to make a buck- it's unfair to expect them to inspect parts thoroughly and give their blessing. Most of their bikes probably arrived DOA. I avoid sellers that claim the bike was running before they stripped it. I think you need to use your gut instinct when it comes to evaluating a sellers analysis of a part. We are all fortunate to locate decent replace parts to keep these classics alive, and if I get a useless part once in a while, it's no big deal.

 

[sparki]

...extra cam cover bolt was added at front for some reason halfway thru model year 82 -maybe other stuff.

to stop the leaks from earlier configs.... same on the 1100 heads as well. went from 20 to 24 bolt. the 24's are a lot less prone to leaking around the camchain tunnel.

of course if it comes with the camcover all is good and you'll have a "less leak prone" camcover/head if it's a later version

 

[rustybronco]

Feedback and return policies factor in as much as the pictures do.

 

[1_v8_merc]

Always be careful when purchasing cylinders or upper heads.

Just ask for pictures....

Some people's idea of a "good" head might consist of "yeah the bike will run....but not for long"

Be careful of very low prices.....there is likely a reason!

I bought a lower cylinder head for a gs550, and wanted to make sure I didn't get screwed with scratched up or rusted up cylinder walls.
All I did was ask for close-up pictures of each bore, and everything checked out!

 

[BigD_83]

used heads...straight swap?

used heads...straight swap?

I'm looking at paying about $90 for a new head, versus a few hundred to pull the old one, transport it, and have the old header bolts milled out.

If I decide to go for a new cylinder head, and it is not warped, what kind of work might I expect to do to ensure it matched up to my existing engine? I expect I'd have some machining to do.

I realize that is a rather broad question, so I'm not expecting specifics. Maybe some stories based on experience with this sort of thing would help me get an idea of what I'd be setting out to do.

 

[niclpnut]

As long as it measures out properly it shouldnt need much machine work. You can clean the gasket mating surfaces yourself.


To double check condition you will want to pull the valves and check the seats. They may be able to be laped in or they may need to be recut. While you have the springs off, you'll want to change the valve stem seals.

Look for wear in the guides (free play to the valves and or scoring/marking).


Just clean up everything. Degrease/and carbon.

I recently took a head off my 1100ES to my local head shop. They do really good work. My total for a broken cam cap bolt, valve job, flow evaluation, and deep clean came to a bit over $100. I had disassembled the head before dropping it off. Quoted me about $175 for a street port.

Just to give you some ideas.

Nic