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Valve adjustments GS700

  • Thread starter Thread starter cyberdork
  • Start date Start date
Those will work but you don't need a tool like that strictly speaking.
 
Yea I originally used a pair of needle nose pliers and a wrench, but wasn't happy with my accuracy. I also used straight feeler gauges which made it even worse considering the top of the valve is bowl shaped. I could tighten the tappet down tight enough with the needle nose that it started to dig into the feeler gauge. I want to do it over again with the correct tools.
 
I thought I read somewhere you can use a piece of wood dowel (not sure how long you need it to by) with a robertson head screw screwed into the end of it. The robertson head has a "square" as a driver and you use this "square" to fit onto the valve adjuster.
I'm going to give it a try next valve adjustment.
Food for thought.
 
Looking at the description of the tools, it looks like you get all of them in the set, so it does not really matter, but the locknut is a 9mm and the square driver is a 3mm.

.
 
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Do yourself a favor & go order the Suzuki tool from a dealer or Bike Bandit or whoever. Then you use a 9 mm box end wrench on the locknuts. Ray.
 
jetta90 said:
I thought I read somewhere you can use a piece of wood dowel (not sure how long you need it to by) with a robertson head screw screwed into the end of it. The robertson head has a "square" as a driver and you use this "square" to fit onto the valve adjuster.
I'm going to give it a try next valve adjustment.
Food for thought.
Click to expand...

I saw that too, but I had an extremely difficult time as it was with my tools. I can't imagine fitting a hammer in that tight space near the frame.
 
Hi Mr. cyberdork,

In Mr. basic's Valve Adjustment for 16 Valve Motors he references the adjustment tool he fabricated:

"To help with adjustments, make yourself a couple of tools with a couple of square head screws and a couple 6-8" pieces of 3/8" wooden dowel. These are square head screws that are a common wood screw - I found a #8 x 3/4" screw works pretty well. Go to the local hardware store and buy a couple in a few different sizes and use the ones that fit best. Install the screw into the end of the wooden dowel so that in the end you have a screw head on the end of a stick. You need 2 of these."

I don't believe a hammer would be involved. :eek:

Hey Aaron! Are you listening? Can you post a couple more pictures of the tool itself? :)

As Ray recommends, you can't go wrong with the factory tool. But perhaps someone else has made the "econo-version" and will post some pictures.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Here's the ones I made. I put a little dab of super glue on the screw when I put it in the dowel. They worked great !

Pics070.jpg








Pics069.jpg
 
I've done it a hundred times with a 9mm wrench and a small pair of pliars. Tighten the tappet with the feeler guage in place and tighten it till it slides in and out with a little resistance. Tighten the lock nut with the feeler guage in place. Keeps it from turning.
 
rapidray said:
Then you use a 9 mm box end wrench on the locknuts. Ray.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the correction, Ray. I have only adjusted the valves on one 16-valve engine and could not really remember what size they were.

I will now go back and edit my post to show the correct size. :-\\\

.
 
One thing to remember when adjusting valves that have a forked rocker type cam follower like the 16V GS engines: use two feeler gauges at the same time (one each valve) and make sure the clearance on each valve in the pair is exactly the same. You don't want to have one valve opening earlier than the other or the forked rocker arm will be under a twisting load which is not good for cam and rocker wear.

Good luck.
 
I really need to buy some feeler gauges with a right angle. The dish shape on the top of the valve makes it really awkward. I was thinking bending mine or even cutting off a chunk to easily slip in the bottom of the "dish" shape ontop of the valve.
 
cyberdork said:
I really need to buy some feeler gauges with a right angle. The dish shape on the top of the valve makes it really awkward. I was thinking bending mine or even cutting off a chunk to easily slip in the bottom of the "dish" shape ontop of the valve.
Click to expand...


Yep, good idea. The valves will need to be adjusted every so often and it's nice to have the right tools.

I tried to bend some straight feeler gauges and they snapped. Then I bought the right ones.....:)
 
Imagine a dinner plate sitting on top of a spring. While under the tappet, the feeler gauge is forced to bend into a "U" shape.
 
i'm glad this thread was brought up, i am going to do a valve adjustment on my 750 over the winter. I do have a question though--does anyone have experience with the non TSCC engine, where shims would be involved? I know what the general idea of a shim does, but some insights would be greatly appreciated.
 
Nessism said:
One thing to remember when adjusting valves that have a forked rocker type cam follower like the 16V GS engines: use two feeler gauges at the same time (one each valve) and make sure the clearance on each valve in the pair is exactly the same. You don't want to have one valve opening earlier than the other or the forked rocker arm will be under a twisting load which is not good for cam and rocker wear.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
I've been doing valve adjustments on 16 valvers since 1980 & have NEVER found a need to use 2 feeler gauges. Street motors or race motors either one. Ray.
 
jabberjoe87 said:
i'm glad this thread was brought up, i am going to do a valve adjustment on my 750 over the winter. I do have a question though--does anyone have experience with the non TSCC engine, where shims would be involved? I know what the general idea of a shim does, but some insights would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. jabberjoe87,

I've got the procedure pretty well documented on my website. Feel free to download your own copy of the PDF file. It's got lots of pictures.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
cyberdork said:
Imagine a dinner plate sitting on top of a spring. While under the tappet, the feeler gauge is forced to bend into a "U" shape.
Click to expand...
The dish shape is not a shim? You have a sixteen valve motor?

I only do one side of the tappet at a time also. Never used two feeler guages. Might be a good idea though.
 
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