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what did you wrench on today??

Thanks

Thanks

Yes I`ll be going with aftermarket pinstripes. No decals on my bike. It`s solid black. Just wanted to accent it a little.
Is this going to be done with aftermarket pin striping, or do you plan on using factory decal's?

If it's just hand applied pin striping tape, automotive dealers have been doing that for years with nothing applied over the top to protect them. Just try not to spill 'petrol' on them.

The side covers on my '82 GS850G didn't have clear over the decals.
 
Put ANOTHER clutch cable in the Turbo Coupe last night. That makes three in the last five years. :mad:

Only thing I can find wrong is that the cable strands (all but this last one) are too thick / stiff and run completely unprotected where the lower mount runs through the trans and back to the clutch fork.

I'm getting fairly quick at it. Can be done in about 1/2 hour, now. :o
 
Finally dug into my starter to work out why it hasn't wanted to crank lately... turns out apart from 32 years of accumulated filth (actually it wasn't too bad), two of the stationary magnets aren't so stationary any more...



Brushes aren't perfect but are serviceable.



Had to get to work and back today and wasn't sure what to do, so cleaned it up, polished the commutator, and put it back together last night just for today.





Of course I only got one crank out of it this morning and ended up push starting it for the trip to work and back and I got a tip that JB Weld will do the trick at holding those magnets in place.

I got the go ahead to work from home tomorrow so tonight I could yank it again and get the JB Weld done so it can cure properly overnight as I really would like to be able to hit the button on Saturday when I'm meeting the Kat guys.

Anyway, turns out that one crank I got this morning did wonders for one of the magnets:



So I just cleaned the housing and the back of the magnets as best I could with some wax and grease remover and then some methylated spirits just to ensure there's nothing to impede the JB Weld, then I stuck them back in place and lined the broken one up as best I could (it looks out of alignment in this pic but it's not really):



Fingers crossed it all cures ok and holds them so I can have a fully functioning starter again. Push starting ain't fun!
 
At least your only push starting a twin.. I've had to push start my 750 a few times... I puled my calf once when the bike shuttered then fell on me... God did that suck!

Hope it works out for you!
 
Ugh! Yeah the twin is bad enough... wouldn't want to be pushing anything bigger!

Cheers, my fingers are remaining crossed in the hopes it cures hard and has sufficient strength to hold while cranking...
 
Pete, I suppose you would be kind enough to show where the cable runs from the starter motor. :p

I have to make up a cable for the Nam bike, as it was without one.

Thanx!
 
I did some wrenching today. I put new clutch fibers in, 10% heavier springs, & 750 oil pump gears in my ES. Next, fab a bracket for an 1150 cooler set up & install a top end oiler. All the parts are in hand.
 
At least your only push starting a twin.. I've had to push start my 750 a few times... I puled my calf once when the bike shuttered then fell on me... God did that suck!

Hope it works out for you!


I've had to push start my 1000 a couple of times. I'm a competitive athlete and I work out a lot. It almost killed me but I got it. rolling it down a steep driveway always helped. Good luck with that starter Pete.

speaking of 10% heavier springs. I have about a 1000 miles on my new stronger springs and my left forearm starts to really dislike being stuck in traffic sometimes.
 
Years ago my 1100s started died 120 miles into a 3 day weekend. I quickly learned to scope parking spots on top of hills, inclines etc. Starting it in the morning was a bi*** though!
 
Dug my RD400 and red GS1000G out from my moms garage, and got them running again. They hadn't been run since October. Its been that long since I have been here.

Surprisingly little trouble, although the RD didn't want to go.
 
I've had to push start my 1000 a couple of times. I'm a competitive athlete and I work out a lot. It almost killed me but I got it. rolling it down a steep driveway always helped. Good luck with that starter Pete.

speaking of 10% heavier springs. I have about a 1000 miles on my new stronger springs and my left forearm starts to really dislike being stuck in traffic sometimes.

Oh yes, heavy springs can hurt for a while. These won't be bad. The springs in my 1123F will make a man outta you. NOT for traffic.
 
Been knocking out some paintwork for the new season. Didn't take pics of the primed step or when I laid the black. But here are some later stages. Checkering:

8747877420_d872676aff.jpg


8746758615_b1fb8be53b.jpg


Laying down base color (over the checkered striping)

8747877572_b78893e841.jpg


8746757973_025300fa25.jpg


8747877216_3b6bc686a3.jpg


Final color stage with some pin-striping:

8747877034_f1323995b8.jpg


8746756961_ae5c0c4458.jpg


8746756713_8e48a054f8.jpg


8746756415_190a7b5b48.jpg


Just need to color sand and then hit them with clear. Afterwards, I'll add the sexy badges I've worked up.
 
Sometimes you just never seem to get caught up...

Sometimes you just never seem to get caught up...

And you wonder why I've not been able to get back to working on the skunk.

Darn close to needing to be totally rebuilt. Needs side rails, both cross supports, spring eye bushings, spring perches, shackles, front rail and several of the vertical supports for the sides.


 
And you wonder why I've not been able to get back to working on the skunk.

Darn close to needing to be totally rebuilt. Needs side rails, both cross supports, spring eye bushings, spring perches, shackles, front rail and several of the vertical supports for the sides.



HOLY CRAP, Dale ! That thing was a load or two from pulling apart ! :eek:
 
Yale steel, a great place to get the angle iron necessary to make all the necessary pieces needed to repair it. Except for the spring eye bushings of course.

Chuck, A.C. stick welder - vertical up... does 7018 sound like the proper rod for the job?
 
Depends on the thickness of the metal and how WIDE you want the bead.

70 means its a 70,000 LB tensile strength fill and the 18 is rod diameter.

The thicker the rod, the wider the bead..obviously. You can make a wider bead with the 18, but youll have to go more in an slightly oval feed rather than the push / pull basic feed pattern.


Amp setting will determine the depth, as well as your feed speed. Also the thicker the rod usually means a wider but less deep penetrating weld can be done. If you have thicker ( like 1/4 ich stock ) you would want something like a 6010 for a deeper penetration but a narrower bead.

I would assume your gonna use something around 1/8 inch?? If so , the 7018 will be fine. Just adjust the Amps and your feed speed to get the bead and penetration good. Probably in the neighborhood of 75 to 100 Amps is gonna be a good start point.
 
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