Living in ON wit bikes isn't cheap that's for sure. Like you're CBX.
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
Living in ON wit bikes isn't cheap that's for sure. Like you're CBX.
In reference to Bills post...some snug fitting rubber hose works well for lapping valves too..and it prevents any possibikty of that tap handle leaving any burrs.
Lapping the valves using a tap wrench, spinning the valve on one side, lightly pushing in the valve on the other:
Lapping the valves using a tap wrench, spinning the valve on one side, lightly pushing in the valve on the other:
'79 KZ400B decided to idle on one cylinder only and was hanging at 4000rpm.
Pulled the carbs and found the diaphragm was not seated properly on the top and there was a random speck of hard crystalline dirt in the pilot tube beyond the jet. Otherwise carbs as clean as a whistle. How it got in there is anybody's guess.
Much smoother now.
Pulled the carbs and found the diaphragm was not seated properly on the top and there was a random speck of hard crystalline dirt in the pilot tube beyond the jet. Otherwise carbs as clean as a whistle. How it got in there is anybody's guess.
Much smoother now.
Since I discovered the issue a while back, I've had on and off obsessions about why / how my sprockets don't line up. It's beyond simple wheel adjustment, and the inside side of the front sprcket is heavily worn. I discovered that the bike was crashed hard, pieced back together, and parked in a dark garage for 12 years before I bought it. I read a while back that that its not uncommon for 1150 swingarms to twist, and on top of that, one axle cover had a big gash on it when I bought the cycle.
So off off it came last night for a look-see. It's out of whack by about an 1/8 inch. I suspect the sprocket side is pushed up based on the axle cover damage. If this is the case, it may well explain the misalignment.
This is actually great news.... Hopefully it will figuratively and literally put me on the right track. I have an arm from the parts bike that checked out good.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easily everything came apart after being bolted together and riding in the dirtiest part of a bike for 34 years... No stuck bolts, no struggles.
3 cents difference....
http://
Damaged goods.... by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
So off off it came last night for a look-see. It's out of whack by about an 1/8 inch. I suspect the sprocket side is pushed up based on the axle cover damage. If this is the case, it may well explain the misalignment.
This is actually great news.... Hopefully it will figuratively and literally put me on the right track. I have an arm from the parts bike that checked out good.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easily everything came apart after being bolted together and riding in the dirtiest part of a bike for 34 years... No stuck bolts, no struggles.
3 cents difference....
http://
Damaged goods.... by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
More good news..... the swinger is also kicked over to one side by a 1/4 inch.... yikes.
It looks like more than .125" IMO. Put a 90? square on one end and compare to the other. Compare to the swing bolt section too, where there's no distortion.Since I discovered the issue a while back, I've had on and off obsessions about why / how my sprockets don't line up. It's beyond simple wheel adjustment, and the inside side of the front sprcket is heavily worn. I discovered that the bike was crashed hard, pieced back together, and parked in a dark garage for 12 years before I bought it. I read a while back that that its not uncommon for 1150 swingarms to twist, and on top of that, one axle cover had a big gash on it when I bought the cycle.
So off off it came last night for a look-see. It's out of whack by about an 1/8 inch. I suspect the sprocket side is pushed up based on the axle cover damage. If this is the case, it may well explain the misalignment.
This is actually great news.... Hopefully it will figuratively and literally put me on the right track. I have an arm from the parts bike that checked out good.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easily everything came apart after being bolted together and riding in the dirtiest part of a bike for 34 years... No stuck bolts, no struggles.
3 cents difference....
http://
These swingarms are kinda EZ to bend, that's why later sport bikes all have heavy bracing.
What did I wrench on today? My wife's '82 GS850G. I put a new wheel spline in it. Make SURE you do your due dilligence before hand, unlike me. I bought one out of a 1990 VS1400 Intruder thinking "they're all the same". NOT! 
It turns out the big bore Intruders, (1400 and 1500), are thicker, hence the different part number. I could barely turn the wheel once I installed it! I found one out of a '86 VS700 Intruder, and MADE SURE it was the same part #. Works like a hot damn! :dancing:
It turns out the big bore Intruders, (1400 and 1500), are thicker, hence the different part number. I could barely turn the wheel once I installed it! I found one out of a '86 VS700 Intruder, and MADE SURE it was the same part #. Works like a hot damn! :dancing:
Finally finished up the valve adjustment on the GS750. (Thanks Ray!) Now just waiting on the new "half moons" to get here tomorrow and I will put her back together. Put some new plugs and plug caps on while it was warm (If 36 degrees F is warm?) in the garage. Since I had some spare time I also started 2 of the other 3 bikes just to hear them run! Will spring ever get here?????
Everything is waiting for moderate weather, like 36?!!!: 1992 GSXR 1127 valve job. Have the head assembled and ready to bolt on the block, however…
It's single digits and double digits below 0 this week! Takes a lot of fuel to warm up the garage from 5? to 55?, plus a heavy dew will form on the open engine and head.
Can't have water dew on the head gasket mating surfaces!
Meanwhile I can work on some guitar projects, except finish coats because solvent fumes are intensified by the kerosene heater flames.
It's single digits and double digits below 0 this week! Takes a lot of fuel to warm up the garage from 5? to 55?, plus a heavy dew will form on the open engine and head.
Can't have water dew on the head gasket mating surfaces!
Meanwhile I can work on some guitar projects, except finish coats because solvent fumes are intensified by the kerosene heater flames.
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Broken exhaust bolt FINALLY removed
Broken exhaust bolt FINALLY removed
I'm so happy I could cry. I've owned this bike for 14+ years. Since I've owned it, it's been run with 5 out of 8 exhaust bolts. 1 broken, 2 w/ buggered threads. I've not ridden the bike a hole lot until this past summer when I (we, me and the GSR gurus) got the charging system sorted. Since I took the exhaust off a few months ago, I've been messing with the broken bolt. A buddy who's a decent welder tried to weld a nut on it with a stick welder but the welds just wouldn't hold. Today, he brought his new little harbor freight mig welder and welded a bolt on. I let it cool completeley and that sucker FINALLY came out. I used a tap to chase all 8 holes, and I think they're all good. Now to reaseach studs/nuts to replace the bolts. I know there a few pages of threads dealing with exhaust studs. I've got some reading to do. Somewhat related: A few years ago I bought a head for $30 including shipping from a guy on eBay. He really didn't know what he was doing 'cause it cost him $30 to ship it. Anyway, all of the exhaust bolt threads in that head are perfect, but the valves look rough (to this guy who wouldn't know what a good valve looked like if it hit him in the eye.) I know I'd have to strip down all the valves, new seals, etc. and I'm just not excited by the prospect of doing all that plus head gasket, plus base gasket, if I don't have to, I may overhaul that head for a swap out if I ever get bored or the need arises. Now I can get on with valve adjustment, another first for me. After the valve adjustment , I know I will need a new valve cover gasket (#2) and breather cover gasket (#11) on the fiche below. Is there anything else under the valve cover that I need to replace while I'm in there? Thanks for reading.
Broken exhaust bolt FINALLY removed
I'm so happy I could cry. I've owned this bike for 14+ years. Since I've owned it, it's been run with 5 out of 8 exhaust bolts. 1 broken, 2 w/ buggered threads. I've not ridden the bike a hole lot until this past summer when I (we, me and the GSR gurus) got the charging system sorted. Since I took the exhaust off a few months ago, I've been messing with the broken bolt. A buddy who's a decent welder tried to weld a nut on it with a stick welder but the welds just wouldn't hold. Today, he brought his new little harbor freight mig welder and welded a bolt on. I let it cool completeley and that sucker FINALLY came out. I used a tap to chase all 8 holes, and I think they're all good. Now to reaseach studs/nuts to replace the bolts. I know there a few pages of threads dealing with exhaust studs. I've got some reading to do. Somewhat related: A few years ago I bought a head for $30 including shipping from a guy on eBay. He really didn't know what he was doing 'cause it cost him $30 to ship it. Anyway, all of the exhaust bolt threads in that head are perfect, but the valves look rough (to this guy who wouldn't know what a good valve looked like if it hit him in the eye.) I know I'd have to strip down all the valves, new seals, etc. and I'm just not excited by the prospect of doing all that plus head gasket, plus base gasket, if I don't have to, I may overhaul that head for a swap out if I ever get bored or the need arises. Now I can get on with valve adjustment, another first for me. After the valve adjustment , I know I will need a new valve cover gasket (#2) and breather cover gasket (#11) on the fiche below. Is there anything else under the valve cover that I need to replace while I'm in there? Thanks for reading.
I think I answered my own question re: what else to replace during valve adjustment besides the valve cover gasket and breather cover gasket. Actually the answer was in 1 of the very many valve adjustment threads. I bought 4 new 1/2 moon seals and a new tach drive o-ring.
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Valve job over
Valve job over
Ok, re-assembly time.
We're having a thaw after the famous "polar vortex"?
I bolted the head on, cams and chain all synced, hand cranked though 2 revs and everything looks good.
I'll be re-assembling the bike this week. Because this is an oversized engine for the frame, I had to take the wheels off and all but 2 engine mount bolts, tilt the block forward to put the head back on and the valve cover too!!
The floor is soaking wet, melted snow from my car, that's how we do it in Michigan.
Valve job over
Ok, re-assembly time.
We're having a thaw after the famous "polar vortex"?
I bolted the head on, cams and chain all synced, hand cranked though 2 revs and everything looks good.
I'll be re-assembling the bike this week. Because this is an oversized engine for the frame, I had to take the wheels off and all but 2 engine mount bolts, tilt the block forward to put the head back on and the valve cover too!!
The floor is soaking wet, melted snow from my car, that's how we do it in Michigan.
Always check your oil pick-up strainer at least once in a blue moon.
I nearly didn't, reasoning this engine hasn't really got all that many miles on, barely 100K and I've never used excessive gasket gunk on it, nor was there any sign of previous owners doing so.
Goes to show what I know - it was half clogged. Tomorrow I'll have a closer look at what exactly the gunge is made from.
I also found a missing starter idler gear shim in the sump.
If I hadn't had it up on the ramp it would have been easy to not bother, as farting around on the dusty cold floor is less than inviting, and that's why I've never really bothered doing it in the past. Fortunately, the ramp makes it easy to just do it, and fifteen minutes later, there it was...
I nearly didn't, reasoning this engine hasn't really got all that many miles on, barely 100K and I've never used excessive gasket gunk on it, nor was there any sign of previous owners doing so.
Goes to show what I know - it was half clogged. Tomorrow I'll have a closer look at what exactly the gunge is made from.
I also found a missing starter idler gear shim in the sump.
If I hadn't had it up on the ramp it would have been easy to not bother, as farting around on the dusty cold floor is less than inviting, and that's why I've never really bothered doing it in the past. Fortunately, the ramp makes it easy to just do it, and fifteen minutes later, there it was...
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Closer inspection reveals it to be flakes of clutch friction material.
Ordered an EBC HD set of friction plates and I'll take the opportunity to fit three HD springs from a set that have been kicking around for years unused.
I have several other used clutch packs that superficially appear to be in good condition, but on reflection decided it wasn't worth the risk as they're all the same age as the one that's started to disintegrate.
Ordered an EBC HD set of friction plates and I'll take the opportunity to fit three HD springs from a set that have been kicking around for years unused.
I have several other used clutch packs that superficially appear to be in good condition, but on reflection decided it wasn't worth the risk as they're all the same age as the one that's started to disintegrate.
Grimster, what bike you working on?
The '80 GS850.
That's all I had intended to do with this, but a voice kept nagging me to have a look at the strainer, after hearing horror stories of neglected ones over the years.
I'm glad I did.
Good Save. My sump was bad. 1/8" evil sediment, fragments of wires and copper strands and a 2" washer glued down in the gunge.
There were no shims on the idler gear. Got two from Priory Suzuki in Dublin for pennies. Lost one trying to assemble. It ended up in the casting 'tunnel' behind the bottom of the flywheel/starter clutch. Went fishing with a magnet and found two in there and not sure if I have them all yet
