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what did you wrench on today??

...
The only major setback so far is a broken plastic thread section of what I think is a vacuum hose connection. OReilly's Auto says a left handed screw extractor will work fine so we'll see how it works for me. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Many threads cover the procedure and the problem. Often, the screw extractor breaks off. The steel used in extractors is very hard, which makes it difficult to do much with it outside of a machine shop.

Here's what I do:

0) Soak for a few days in penetrating oil.

1) Use a center punch to indent the center of the broken screw/bolt. This is where the hole will be, so be careful and get it right. If the screw broke at an angle making this almost impossible, use a grinder ball on the end of a Dremel first. Get it in the *center*.

2) Buy a set of left hand drills. Harbor Freight sells them for about $15. Those are acceptable. Better ones can be found at many places, including at McMaster Carr.

3) Find the angle of the screw. Drop a thin rod or use a threaded rod in one of the holes parallel to the broken screw. Hold your drill at that angle. You're going to be holding that drill for a long time, so find a position where the weight is supported and you are guiding.

4) Use cutting oil or motor oil to lubricate.

5) Drill down the length of the broken screw using the smallest drill. Use moderate pressure and keep under 200 RPM or so.

6) Stop every two to three minutes. Be sure that the tip of the drill is not hot. If it is, use less pressure or slower speed. If it isn't warm, use more pressure/speed. Add oil and continue.

7) Repeat until you are through the length of the screw, or until the drill chuck is almost interfering with the screw or surrounding metal. It could easily take an hour.

8) Change to the next large drill and repeat. This will go much faster. The cutting part of the drill has something to cut into.

8) Keep using larger drills.

9) Eventually, the screw will give up and spin out. That is the reason for using left-hard drills. The screw is held in by a combination of corrosion and pressure against the female threads. Penetrating oil + heat from drilling + vibration from drilling will fracture the soft rust. As the core is drilled out, the screw will slightly shrink into itself, relieving the tension. The drill will rapidly speed up and the hollow screw will spin out.

10) Chase the thread with a tap.
 
Thanks Themess but this was the plastic screw piece to the crankshaft breather valve for the jeep - there are two of them both plastic but only one broke. The middle of them is hollow and I'm told by a couple of auto parts stores to use the extractor for it.

If it had been the bike you're right, i wouldn't even try
 
I finally got to use my new chain tools on Sunday, a cleaning brush and an alignment too. While I was 99% sure my chain was aligned I just wanted to verify it was good with something other than just my eyes and yep it's all good.



The bristles on the brush are soft enough not to bother the O rings but firm enough to really get the old lube and grunge off when used with kerosene. The chain's much happier now with a clean and some Silkolene Titanium Dri Gel chain lube.

I also gave her her first wash/polish/wax in a couple of months seeing as I was on call and couldn't go riding...



And of course yesterday she's started her intermittent single cylinder imitation yet again so I suspect I will be giving her more attention this week although I don't know where to look next... I know it's not a coil malfunction but that's all I know for sure...
 
No wrenching per se, but it did get its yearly wash/degreasing....

20140527_115049_zps82d587cf.jpg
 
and later....

and later....

Embarrassing to admit, but the rear brake fluid was original up to about 2 hours ago....Had a little time so I changed it. Im not a total fool, so I did expect trouble. As soon as the pedal travelled more then it had for 29 years, the piston in the M/C got stuck. I removed the M/C cleaned it out blew it out, and restored operation, reassembled the lines and bled the brakes.....done. For now. The old fluid looked like iced tea. The rear brake was dragging a bit, which is what prompted this work.
 
Put new tires on the Bandit a week ago. The day after, I picked up a nail in the rear tire and off with the tire again. Yesterday, I went into the garage and found the front tire flat with a screw in it. Off with that one too. Really sucks.
 
New tires on the HD today. Save the second gear wheelies, this is the only time I like the GS better than the HD. Pulling the mufflers to slide the axle out is a PIA. I soak 'em with PB Blaster for a few days in advance, and I always Scotch-brite the header connections, and coat 'em with anti-sieze, so they're not that hard to remove, but I like the way that GS rear wheel comes off without removing the axle.
 
Hello my name is...

Hello my name is...

F.N. Hack. I like to overtighten fasteners.

Seven holes stripped and repaired - most with some sort of plastic filler/epoxy and retapped. All were on the inner portion of the head. One was previously repaired with a threaded insert. I repaired an additional six.

 
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This is the head off Stan's GK. It was repaired by some hack at some point in time. The word 'repaired' is being used very loosely.
 
I already repaired the damaged threads in the head. Now is putting it all back totether for the second time.
 
F.N. Hack. I like to overtighten fasteners.

Seven holes stripped and repaired - most wIth some sort of plastic filler/epoxy and retapped. All were on the inner portion of the head. One was previously repaired with a threaded insert. I repaired an additional six.

My personal record is 22 helicoils in a 650 Benelli motor...but besides a hamfisted owner it had been in an accident....
 
After 22 screwed up hole's I'd consider tracking them down and super gluing their hands together. That's just insane.
 
1978 gs1000

1978 gs1000

Got the 78 GS1000 together and running last weekend still a lot of cleaning and little things to change and fix but it runs and rides as is put 100 miles on it around town
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After 22 screwed up hole's I'd consider tracking them down and super gluing their hands together. That's just insane.

Yes and no...it's called restoration, LOL...

It had hit the side of a bridge with the RHS engine cover - which accounted for i think 12 of the helicoils - into bosses built up with weld too. The rest could be put down to a hamfisted owner - and italian cast alloy - which closely resembles Mozzarella cheese...

Oh and word from the current owner was that the previous owner had died against the bridge side...
 
Installed Grab On , Classic Road Grips on my 650.
a serious improvement over the stock ribbed grips.
they really helped with my thumb and forefinger from going numb.

they are a bit tricky to install especially on the throttle tube side so if you plan on putting these on and want a few pointers just message me.
Adam-Adam-
 
Very nice.
Is that a stock E dual disc or a Salty Monk upgrade?

Thanks
I got a set of e forks off Ebay had 3 rims and rotors so used the best ones still need to change the right fork and install the new progressive springs, rebuild the calipers get new brake lines and the list go's on and on but with this one it's a labor of love
 
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