• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

what did you wrench on today??

Well, it's got me stumped why the back brakes won't bleed. I've got new brake lines, bleed nipples, new slave cylinder kit installed (correctly) new hose from the master cup to the cylinder, new rubbers in the back brake pistons. I've filled the cylinder to the top and reconnected the brake hose, tested the stroke of the ram, I'm getting fluid out of both nipples and no air bubbles, and still there's no pressure on the brake lever. No leaks anywhere, but I did notice the bleed nipples weep a little if not tightened up fully.
I've wedged the brake lever down overnight, to see if any air bubbles in the system will make their way out, no luck.
any ideas people?

Check if there's a tiny (1mm) relief port in the master cylinder that might have been blocked. Exactly the same symptoms as you describe are found when that port is blocked in the front master.
 
Hospital bed converted to bike lifter

Hospital bed converted to bike lifter

I was thinking for ages of how to afford a bike lifter in my small shed, I looked at the Chinese copies in the local auto shops, they looked flimsey and unstable. Friends had used timber frames, but they were rigid and you couldn't adjust the height.
Most of the store bought lifters were heavy, took up too much room, had no way of wheeling them around, and you had to mortage you first born for an electric or hydraulic powered one.
I spied with my little eye a pyshiotherapist bed at the local disposals store, it originally ahd a wide (1 metre) mattress on the top, so it should of had to cater for the "large boned" people.
After some initial haggling I bought two of them, one went to a mates Cafe Racer shop, and took the best one home.
after a few hours, I stripped the bed off, installed a painted 2mm thick sheet of steel with folded edges on top, installed a wheel chock bought for $45 at an auto shop, and used a couple of Stainless steel u-bolts for the tie downs.
The steel top cost $70 from a local fabricator, $12 for two rattle cans of black paint, and the u-bolts were free.
Research from a medical supplier says it's suppose to safely lift 240kg, with a safety factor built in. So a GS850G weighs approx 263kg so theoretically it should lift my bike. But for the excercise I wheeled the BSA on and it lifted it no dramas. It's also got a tilt option, to load patients on at a 90 degree tilt. So for under $350 I got the lifter I wanted and I can wheel a loaded bike around and lock the wheels.
link to the You Tube clip below, hope it works.

/http://youtu.be/Ab-XAWu_VCg
 
So for under $350 I got the lifter I wanted and I can wheel a loaded bike around and lock the wheels.
link to the You Tube clip below, hope it works.

http://youtu.be/Ab-XAWu_VCg

Superb stuff :) I wonder if the plague of fatties is rendering many of these beds obsolete now, and having to be traded up for heavier-duty ones, leaving us able to pick up the old ones.
Cheez, imagine weighing more than a GS850.
 
Lay down Sally.

Lay down Sally.

Dave, no danger of running out of these beds, as long as people eat McChuck burgers there will be the health dollars spent reversing the problem.
I was blown away with the price of some new lift units $600 for a cheap unit, right up $2400 for the deluxe models. Way out my budget and money better spent on my bikes.
 
Took the greasy valve cover off my 850:

89125FDB-FA22-4DAE-B05D-851046463600.jpg


And cleaned/sanded it up a bit:

3FEC27EE-8675-4C90-9B9F-9CC961F1272E.jpg


Might polish it at some point too.
 
Used a $16 starter rebuild kit to replace the GS1150E starter brushes, bearing, bushing, seal and o rings. You wouldn't think these parts would change how the starter sounds, but it works great. Getting the old bearing out was the only issue. I couldn't find a local store with a small enough bearing separator, so I ended up running lockwire in a loop under the bearing, and use the fingers of a two arm bearing puller to remove the bearing.
 
I worked on my old Isuzu Trooper today. It sprung a coolant leak from under the intake manifold so I had to remove the upper manifold to get at the hose. I found the culprit, but I'll be replacing all the hoses, fuel line and vacuum line associated with that area. Too much rubber turning into plastic there to want to repeat this again soon. It's 45 degrees out and raining, so not exactly ideal, but it's off and I can order parts.
 
If thats the condition of the cover, take the airbox out and check the top plenum section where the breather hose goes in,there's probably a channel in there clogged full of engine crap as well. Don't forget the filters under that valve cover as well.
 
If thats the condition of the cover, take the airbox out and check the top plenum section where the breather hose goes in,there's probably a channel in there clogged full of engine crap as well. Don't forget the filters under that valve cover as well.

Nailed it. Airbox is out and full of crud. Getting a new from Phred soon. Breather hose is cracked too. This bike is getting some love this winter...
 
I found the culprit, but I'll be replacing all the hoses, fuel line and vacuum line associated with that area. Too much rubber turning into plastic there to want to repeat this again soon.

That is the right way to do it. If you only fixed the ONE problem today, you would be going back under that manifold again and again under even worse conditions for certain.
 
Charged up the battery and pumped up the tires on the 78, time for the Polar Bear run at 9 AM NYD

It started right up, but clearly needed a volt or two after sitting since October
 
Got around to fitting the 13" Harley (Showa) air shocks from an FLH (I think). Given they've replaced a set of old OEM GS shocks that were still in good condition just about any change would have been for the better, and these are very much so. I'll fiddle with air pressures tomorrow and look at oil types and content at some other time, but for now, they're running at 15psi and whatever oil was in them - which is fairly thin stuff.
I had to make up some cylindrical shims for the mounting posts, top and bottom, and the lid of a dogfood can was the perfect thickness.
Woof.
 
Grimly, see if you can get a hold of Old_Skool from this forum as he has used them on several bikes that I know of and can probably help you.
(If he is still here anyway) He said that he was getting sick and tired of some of the rampant egos that some members were throwing out. :(
 
I came across some very useful threads on the V-Twins site, and one or two posters in particular were well-versed in the overhaul and use of these. I'll see how they go with the oil that's in them for now, but armed with some slight knowledge of how to fuddle with them, I'll attempt to improve them if necessary. Seems they left the factory in a middlin' state, which would have suited a lot of people but by no means all, and even at that, the oil used was watery even if there was enough of it.
I had a set of Showas on for 20 years and they performed well until they met their demise with a massive pothole, and it's those which prompted me to try the Harley take-offs, seeing as how they're near enough the same shocks.
 
Today I washed the 750 and 2 1100s....then I wired them up for the battery tenders I bought them for Christmas.:)
 
Finally got around to re-building the fork legs that will go on the '80 bike. Mixing and matching the best bits available from two sets, I have single-rate springs of unknown strength, but certainly seem lively enough. I'm going with the air caps for now, just for the sake of completeness and to try them out, and if they're no good, I'll be able to fit the pre-load mechanical caps from the old set that's currently on the bike.
Opening a bottle of fork oil, I was assailed by a very familiar smell - and thought, "If that's not actually ATF, I'm a Dutchman." I'd intended to use ATF anyway, so this saves me the bother. ;)
 
Took the drum out of the electric clothes drier to find out what broke. Had to replace one of the idler rollers the drum rests on. Sears parts center had them in stock. Smooth as silk again.
 
Back
Top