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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
J
JEEPRUSTY
Guest
I have new carb boots
was gonna put em on last year
maybe this sumeer
they sure are pliable
was gonna put em on last year
maybe this sumeer
they sure are pliable
Funny, I finally did mine a year after I planned to as well.
We watch MythBusters at our house when the grand kids are around, so we decided to do the rocket car in scale. Having a bunch of GI Joe toys around, the car of choice was a Humvee. Unlike Mythbusters, we found center of balance on the toy and loaded in a C6-5 rocket motor and set up the fuse to drag the ground behind the rig on a wire both sides of the motor on a board track, after coming off a ramp.
In a round about way it worked and the toy flew in a even trajectory when the motor ignited. The wires being powered by a bat charger.
A video link will be posted in the owners section when I get it. Was a fun experiment and we will be doing it again.
V
In a round about way it worked and the toy flew in a even trajectory when the motor ignited. The wires being powered by a bat charger.
A video link will be posted in the owners section when I get it. Was a fun experiment and we will be doing it again.
V
Finally got around to installing a choke cable on Project GS this afternoon...
... somewhere, Trevor is feeling faint over the rust and slime on my bike! :biggrin:
Thats a tidy choke setup....I like it.
Now the XS is running, and I have an idea what needs doing properly, it's time to strip and clean the carbs. They seem to be Mikuni VM34s but until I get them off and stripped and measured I can't be totally sure exactly what's been fitted. I have a slight suspicion that motor might not be quite standard internally. If there's a 750 kit on it, I'll be happy enough 
This weekend actually got to spend some time on the EFE. Haven't had a chance to really do much in the last couple of months. Anyway pulled some more parts of it and went to my stash of parts I pulled off and cleaned a while ago and now I can start putting some stuff back on. I'll start at the back because it's mostly cleaned up and ready for reassembly but still have to go over the front end. Pulled the gauges off and discovered they are too badly damaged to salvage. I thought it just had a cracked outer case from when it was dropped but the inner case is also broken and what i thought was good glass is actually a glued in piece of plexy. I did managed to get what looks like a decent set of gauges off ebay except for a cracked glass which i knew about. Was going to take the good glass off the old gauges and .....well you know the story. I guess I'll have to see if I can find somebody to cut me a new piece. It looks like thin non-glare picture frame glass so off to glass shop. Only problem is it's got hole in it for the trip meter, they should be able to fix me up hopefully.
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G
GSX1000E
Guest
A friend of the wife was having car problems. It just quit running after making those lovely clinking and clacking sounds. I went to their house to diagnose and unfortunately I was right.
After removing a part of the timing belt shield, the belt was actually still turning! Of course the engine just stumbled and did not start. I finished removing the outer part of the timing belt shield and
saw the belt jumping over the intake cam sprocket while continuing to turn the exhaust sprocket. I told them that the tensioner had gone south for the winter. Well as no good deed goes
unpunished, guess who was lucky enough to have to volunteer repair it?
On the Chrysler/Dodge/Mitsubishi 2.0L and 2.4L engines, the "kit" to repair it includes the water pump also.
Naturally, you HAVE to remove both cam sprockets to remove the inner shield that hides the water pump! Joy, joy, happy, happy! Not much of a mess here after the remaining few parts of
the tensioner were found... 5 ball bearings, a steel ring and a carcass.
Here is some of the fun with most of the parts removed. The sprocket on the lower left is the water pump drive.
Straight down from the right (exhaust) cam you can see the groove into the block from the outer tensioner wheel that ate into it with no ball bearings in it any longer.
After removing a part of the timing belt shield, the belt was actually still turning! Of course the engine just stumbled and did not start. I finished removing the outer part of the timing belt shield and
saw the belt jumping over the intake cam sprocket while continuing to turn the exhaust sprocket. I told them that the tensioner had gone south for the winter. Well as no good deed goes
unpunished, guess who was lucky enough to have to volunteer repair it?
On the Chrysler/Dodge/Mitsubishi 2.0L and 2.4L engines, the "kit" to repair it includes the water pump also.Naturally, you HAVE to remove both cam sprockets to remove the inner shield that hides the water pump! Joy, joy, happy, happy! Not much of a mess here after the remaining few parts of
the tensioner were found... 5 ball bearings, a steel ring and a carcass.
Here is some of the fun with most of the parts removed. The sprocket on the lower left is the water pump drive.Straight down from the right (exhaust) cam you can see the groove into the block from the outer tensioner wheel that ate into it with no ball bearings in it any longer.
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Your job maybe will either a lot easier as not fixing it or a lot hard if you. Good chance it's interference fit as in bent valves.A friend of the wife was having car problems. It just quit running after making those lovely clinking and clacking sounds. I went to their house to diagnose and unfortunately I was right.
After removing a part of the timing belt shield, the belt was actually still turning! Of course the engine just stumbled and did not start. I finished removing the outer part of the timing belt shield and
saw the belt jumping over the intake cam sprocket while continuing to turn the exhaust sprocket. I told them that the tensioner had gone south for the winter. Well as no good deed goes
unpunished, guess who was lucky enough to have to volunteer repair it?
Naturally, you HAVE to remove both cam sprockets to remove the inner shield that hides the water pump! Joy, joy, happy, happy! Not much of a mess here after the remaining few parts of
the tensioner were found... 5 ball bearings, a steel ring and a carcass.
Straight down from the right (exhaust) cam you can see the groove into the block from the outer tensioner wheel that ate into it with no ball bearings in it any longer.
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A friend of the wife was having car problems. It just quit running after making those lovely clinking and clacking sounds. I went to their house to diagnose and unfortunately I was right.
After removing a part of the timing belt shield, the belt was actually still turning! Of course the engine just stumbled and did not start. I finished removing the outer part of the timing belt shield and
saw the belt jumping over the intake cam sprocket while continuing to turn the exhaust sprocket. I told them that the tensioner had gone south for the winter. Well as no good deed goes
unpunished, guess who was lucky enough to have to volunteer repair it?
Naturally, you HAVE to remove both cam sprockets to remove the inner shield that hides the water pump! Joy, joy, happy, happy! Not much of a mess here after the remaining few parts of
the tensioner were found... 5 ball bearings, a steel ring and a carcass.
Straight down from the right (exhaust) cam you can see the groove into the block from the outer tensioner wheel that ate into it with no ball bearings in it any longer.
The Only 4 cylinder Chrystler I'm Proficient in repairing is this type of motor...
IN this type of car...
I wish I had more pictures but I was very poor in 2003. All my money I had was dumped into that thing... Did manage to pull out a 12.8 1/4 mile time
.But the 2.4 Neon/PT/Eclipse engine... I'm pretty sure it interference type. bet the valves are bent.
A
aoywi
Guest
Stripped all the old tape and sleeve off my wiring harness.
Added some new wires to the original harness so i can do the Ignition relay mod and the "lights out on start" mod
Also rewrapped the harness and some of the smaller parts
Added some new wires to the original harness so i can do the Ignition relay mod and the "lights out on start" mod
Also rewrapped the harness and some of the smaller parts
That looks fun.....Years ago I had a Renault Alliance- a 50 dollar running car in decent shape. In a noreaster (winter storm in the Mid Atlantic/ NewEngland region), in driving wind and rain and while passing a truck it just shut off. We towed it home with a chain.....A friend of the wife was having car problems. It just quit running after making those lovely clinking and clacking sounds. I went to their house to diagnose and unfortunately I was right.
After removing a part of the timing belt shield, the belt was actually still turning! Of course the engine just stumbled and did not start. I finished removing the outer part of the timing belt shield and
saw the belt jumping over the intake cam sprocket while continuing to turn the exhaust sprocket. I told them that the tensioner had gone south for the winter. Well as no good deed goes
unpunished, guess who was lucky enough to have to volunteer repair it?
Naturally, you HAVE to remove both cam sprockets to remove the inner shield that hides the water pump! Joy, joy, happy, happy! Not much of a mess here after the remaining few parts of
the tensioner were found... 5 ball bearings, a steel ring and a carcass.
Straight down from the right (exhaust) cam you can see the groove into the block from the outer tensioner wheel that ate into it with no ball bearings in it any longer.
Broken timing belt and bent valves. It was a 4 cylinder, so it wasnt terrible to repair.
I put a new Speigler rear brake line on the RD400. The Banjo bolts is came with didn't work, and the two ends are slightly twisted. Had a hard time re bleeding it too. Its all good now.
Pulled the rear wheel off of the red 1000G, as the new Avon was leaking. I took it to a new motorcycle tire shop after determining that the air was leaking from between the rim and tire. As I suspected, there was dirt between the rim and tire. It cost me $47 to have the tire re-mounted and balanced. When they brought it back, it was mounted backwards, which I didn't figure out until I started to reinstall it. A gallon of gas and an hour later, they graciously redid it without complaint or argument.
All nice and holding.
The shop where I bought the tire and originally had it mounted went out of business
Pulled the rear wheel off of the red 1000G, as the new Avon was leaking. I took it to a new motorcycle tire shop after determining that the air was leaking from between the rim and tire. As I suspected, there was dirt between the rim and tire. It cost me $47 to have the tire re-mounted and balanced. When they brought it back, it was mounted backwards, which I didn't figure out until I started to reinstall it. A gallon of gas and an hour later, they graciously redid it without complaint or argument.
All nice and holding.
The shop where I bought the tire and originally had it mounted went out of business
Not sure if this is related but it may help. Same as the Mitsubishi:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtTcRru-C-U
Here's a list of interference engines. Seems like yours is:
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/List_Of_Interference_Engines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtTcRru-C-U
Here's a list of interference engines. Seems like yours is:
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/List_Of_Interference_Engines
G
GSX1000E
Guest
2000 DOHC 2.4L Chrysler engine. Thanks guys! I explained to the owners husband that everything that I saw while looking for a timing belt/kit said that it was indeed an interference engine
and that it would most likely need a recon head as well. He said that what he researched stated that they did a design change after the 1998 engine so as to just clear the valves in the event
of a timing belt failure. I also explained to them that as the exhaust cam and crank were still turning while he was trying to re-start it, the intake cam was probably in a position that would
still cause harm to those valves. I said that AT BEST he had a 50/50% chance that the valves were not bent. He is willing to take that gamble anyway and wants it replaced. Cross fingers.
and that it would most likely need a recon head as well. He said that what he researched stated that they did a design change after the 1998 engine so as to just clear the valves in the event
of a timing belt failure. I also explained to them that as the exhaust cam and crank were still turning while he was trying to re-start it, the intake cam was probably in a position that would
still cause harm to those valves. I said that AT BEST he had a 50/50% chance that the valves were not bent. He is willing to take that gamble anyway and wants it replaced. Cross fingers.
G
GSX1000E
Guest
Great suggestion I might do but, regardless either it runs or it is totally F'd up. On a lighter note, I was explaining to the husband that at least I could use the experience of working on their engine
as my daughter has the same one in her 2008 PT Cruiser a couple of days ago. Well, as God works in mysterious ways, our daughter called last night and her POS is not running and all of the local
shops want to bend her over for an electrical problem. It appears that a friend and I will be going on a road trip to either try to repair it on the spot (Sears store parking lot) or transport it back here
the 260+ miles. More... joy, joy, happy, happy. Tomorrow will be a very long day indeed. Currently UP TO 30 degrees and time to get back at the Stratus repair. (outside in the driveway)
as my daughter has the same one in her 2008 PT Cruiser a couple of days ago. Well, as God works in mysterious ways, our daughter called last night and her POS is not running and all of the local
shops want to bend her over for an electrical problem. It appears that a friend and I will be going on a road trip to either try to repair it on the spot (Sears store parking lot) or transport it back here
the 260+ miles. More... joy, joy, happy, happy.
Tomorrow will be a very long day indeed. Currently UP TO 30 degrees and time to get back at the Stratus repair. (outside in the driveway)
Back for some bike-related stuff...
It became obvious that one cylinder wasn't pulling its weight and this is what I found when I stripped the RH carb...
Dropping the drain plug on the LH carb revealed more of the same crud, so I'll strip that tomorrow.
Turns out they're VM34s with 185 main jets, so I'll have a poke around the Mikuni specs and see if there's a clue there that might give me an inkling if any tuning work's been done on the engine. I don't really know, at this point, whether these carbs, with that jetting, might have been nothing more than an off-the-shelf upgrade to a standard lump or not.
It became obvious that one cylinder wasn't pulling its weight and this is what I found when I stripped the RH carb...
Dropping the drain plug on the LH carb revealed more of the same crud, so I'll strip that tomorrow.
Turns out they're VM34s with 185 main jets, so I'll have a poke around the Mikuni specs and see if there's a clue there that might give me an inkling if any tuning work's been done on the engine. I don't really know, at this point, whether these carbs, with that jetting, might have been nothing more than an off-the-shelf upgrade to a standard lump or not.
