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going to throw the battery on the charger in hope of warmer days to come....
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
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After a recent incident of feeling like I have a lack of control at high speeds, I've been servicing my T in prep for the spring.
My forks have never been serviced, so I am replacing the springs, installing PVC spacers, to replace the air usually put in, new 10W fork oil, bleeding front brake system ( my gut tells me the prior owner never touched that either) , grease swing arm, 2 new tires/air valves, replacing non working rear brake switch, soldering the spark plug leads directly to the coil terminals, as the original lugs keep cutting out. While I had the rear wheel apart I de-greased the sprocket and wheel hub, and polished the rear brake hub.
Once this stuff is done I need to check the valve clearance, install a new valve cover gasket, and sync the carbs. Then a final detailing, and I'm done....( uh, sure I am)
Other than that...really not much.....
My forks have never been serviced, so I am replacing the springs, installing PVC spacers, to replace the air usually put in, new 10W fork oil, bleeding front brake system ( my gut tells me the prior owner never touched that either) , grease swing arm, 2 new tires/air valves, replacing non working rear brake switch, soldering the spark plug leads directly to the coil terminals, as the original lugs keep cutting out. While I had the rear wheel apart I de-greased the sprocket and wheel hub, and polished the rear brake hub.
Once this stuff is done I need to check the valve clearance, install a new valve cover gasket, and sync the carbs. Then a final detailing, and I'm done....( uh, sure I am)
Other than that...really not much.....
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gordinho80
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PB, you've been busy! We'll have to get out on a ride once the weather breaks. You, me, and Glen... and whoever else is in the area and willing!
If you need help with the valves and the sync, I just went through with my bike. Glen let me borrow his mercury carb sync tool. I'm sure he'd be willing to let you use it as well if need be...
If you need help with the valves and the sync, I just went through with my bike. Glen let me borrow his mercury carb sync tool. I'm sure he'd be willing to let you use it as well if need be...
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Buddy came over and we got after his 85 Honda VF700C that was given to him after setting some 12+ years. Carbs off, both calipers broke down, clutch slave cylinder broke down,radiator removed for some flushing out, speedo cable removed and found it was broke off at the bottom near the drive, Tank soaked with Acetone to dissolve the old varnished gasoline residue that was in the tank, brake and clutch master cylinders removed and broke down and cleaned.....just a usual weekend for me.
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Put Charmayne's new headlight together though not on the bike yet and did a valve adjustment on mine with Steve showing me how to use the zip tie. I can now say I'm a convert as it was less stressful than using the tool and didn't really take that much more time.
Yes... For the ride, and the synch tool. PB, if you need it let me know.
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Chuck Fryer
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Well, not so much today, but over the past week anyway. I moved the stock signal lights in closer. It started with the rear, I kept catching a leg on them when I would walk around the bike. I didn't want to ad aftermarket, so this keeps it more stock looking but still different.
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Chuck Fryer
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My mechanic came over today (he does house calls) to confirm that my #3 cylinder really is still alive. He rebuilt the carbs a few weeks ago and the first time I went to start the bike afterwards, the #3 cylinder wasn't firing at all. I assumed there was some sort of problem with his rebuild. So he came over today, started the bike and let it run for a minute or two after which the #3 cylinder did start to fire. Apparently the bike is just really cold-blooded. Maybe it won't be so reluctant to fire in the future.
He and I also decided together that I should probably just go ahead and buy new clutch plates and a couple of bearings for the clutch. It is making a clunking sound that you can feel in the clutch release arm.
After he left, I finished detailing the rear of the frame, all the wiring for the rear turn signals and tail light, and the two plastic pieces of the rear fender. I then re-installed the seat tail cover and the two side covers, which I had removed a couple of weeks ago to clean and polish.
I don't think I'm going to make this particular bike as spectacular as some I've seen on this website, but I guarantee it'll be the nicest one in Ann Arbor, MI!
He and I also decided together that I should probably just go ahead and buy new clutch plates and a couple of bearings for the clutch. It is making a clunking sound that you can feel in the clutch release arm.
After he left, I finished detailing the rear of the frame, all the wiring for the rear turn signals and tail light, and the two plastic pieces of the rear fender. I then re-installed the seat tail cover and the two side covers, which I had removed a couple of weeks ago to clean and polish.
I don't think I'm going to make this particular bike as spectacular as some I've seen on this website, but I guarantee it'll be the nicest one in Ann Arbor, MI!
Maybe your mechanic should sync the carbs so the butterflies all are open sufficienty for it to fire ALL 4 correctly. If then other three get hot way sooner than the 3 does then theres an issue.
Secondly, maybe your mechanic should remove the clutch basket and see that the dampner springs arent loose before recommending a bunch of possibly unnecessary parts. And maybe your should verify the mixture screw settings are open enough for the cylinders to fire at an idle as well. Seems your mechanic may need a tutor.
Secondly, maybe your mechanic should remove the clutch basket and see that the dampner springs arent loose before recommending a bunch of possibly unnecessary parts. And maybe your should verify the mixture screw settings are open enough for the cylinders to fire at an idle as well. Seems your mechanic may need a tutor.
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Hi Chuck. Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I'm not completely convinced that he was as detail oriented as one apparently needs to be when rebuilding these carbs. He's more of a "git 'er done" kind of a guy.
But in his defense on the clutch issue, he did offer to take it apart while he was here and inspect it, but I didn't want to leave it disassembled while I waited for new parts AND for him to be able to make it back to Ann Arbor to install them (he lives about 60 miles from here).
What are your feelings regarding OEM clutch plates vs EBC vs Barnett? I won't be riding this bike often, and when I do, I'm quite conservative; I like to treat my mechanical things gently so that they last longer.
But in his defense on the clutch issue, he did offer to take it apart while he was here and inspect it, but I didn't want to leave it disassembled while I waited for new parts AND for him to be able to make it back to Ann Arbor to install them (he lives about 60 miles from here).
What are your feelings regarding OEM clutch plates vs EBC vs Barnett? I won't be riding this bike often, and when I do, I'm quite conservative; I like to treat my mechanical things gently so that they last longer.
They are both quality suppliers. What I would do is see if theres a member close to you. I know there are few close to the Ann Arbor / Lansing area. If I was still in Hazel Park I would bungee the Carbtune on and ride out myself. there are so many little quirks that can mimmik something and its totally something else. I dont know the guys experience on old bikes but I do know the forum guys near you that understand them inside and out wont steer you wrong and may save you a lot of strife . If you dont want it down a while to inspect the clutch basket, the plates and fibers, and the gap between the fiber fingers and the basket then just order a clutch cover gasket ahead of time.
Yes the needle bearings and races can wear but the overwhelming majority of clutch noise is due to bad damner springs, excessive wear on the basket where the fibers interlock and ride, and the clutch hub nut working itself loose. Those are the big 3 to check first off.
no worries on being gentle on a GS. Ride it like your trying to break it...they can withstand it and youll enjoy it more.
Yes the needle bearings and races can wear but the overwhelming majority of clutch noise is due to bad damner springs, excessive wear on the basket where the fibers interlock and ride, and the clutch hub nut working itself loose. Those are the big 3 to check first off.
no worries on being gentle on a GS. Ride it like your trying to break it...they can withstand it and youll enjoy it more.
Weekend wrap up...
Weekend wrap up...
First and foremost, the furniture clogging up the garage was donated to Habitat For Humanity. Mario, thanks for the truck offer, but we got it done in 3 quick trips. Then I cleaned up the place to its normal level of disorginization.
Then more work on the back wheel.
I took the easy way and had the shop dismount the rear tire. Upon inspection of the rim, it looked like at one time someone tried to remove a tire with a chainsaw. There were a bunch of deep gouges in the bead section which got me thinking about years ago when I had to replace a tire at about mid life that was leaking from the bead. The shop (a different one) said the tire was damaged at the bead. Hmmmm. Ancient history now, and no issues since. I smoothed them out and cleaned up the wheel in hopes of painting it when it warms up this week.
Cleaned and prepped the rotor for paint also.
I cleaned up the sprocket and carrier and noticed wear on the outside of the sprocket. It's no surprise that there is a potential chain alignment issue - I've noticed this in the past when I saw wear on the inside of the chain side plates and on the inside of the front sprocket. I had concern that accident damage I didn't know about at the time of purchase may have bent something - I knew it was crashed, but not how bad. A few years in , I found the front engine mounting lug had been broken off and welded back on. I lined the chain up the best it could by eye and put it in the back of my mind rationalizing that even if something was bent, it's ridden fine for all these years, at least at my level anyway. I want to look further into this though.
Then the brake... while going thru things, I found the torque arm was suck to the caliper, and had no movement whatsoever. I'm thinking this may be what killed the wheel bearing on that side - side loading from no give at the arm is my guess, and only a guess. The other 2 bearings were still perfectly smooth.
It looks like corrosion locked up the arm. I'll reassemble with a touch of anti seize.
hoping for a good week of bike work.
Weekend wrap up...
First and foremost, the furniture clogging up the garage was donated to Habitat For Humanity. Mario, thanks for the truck offer, but we got it done in 3 quick trips. Then I cleaned up the place to its normal level of disorginization.
Then more work on the back wheel.
I took the easy way and had the shop dismount the rear tire. Upon inspection of the rim, it looked like at one time someone tried to remove a tire with a chainsaw. There were a bunch of deep gouges in the bead section which got me thinking about years ago when I had to replace a tire at about mid life that was leaking from the bead. The shop (a different one) said the tire was damaged at the bead. Hmmmm. Ancient history now, and no issues since. I smoothed them out and cleaned up the wheel in hopes of painting it when it warms up this week.
Cleaned and prepped the rotor for paint also.
I cleaned up the sprocket and carrier and noticed wear on the outside of the sprocket. It's no surprise that there is a potential chain alignment issue - I've noticed this in the past when I saw wear on the inside of the chain side plates and on the inside of the front sprocket. I had concern that accident damage I didn't know about at the time of purchase may have bent something - I knew it was crashed, but not how bad. A few years in , I found the front engine mounting lug had been broken off and welded back on. I lined the chain up the best it could by eye and put it in the back of my mind rationalizing that even if something was bent, it's ridden fine for all these years, at least at my level anyway. I want to look further into this though.
Then the brake... while going thru things, I found the torque arm was suck to the caliper, and had no movement whatsoever. I'm thinking this may be what killed the wheel bearing on that side - side loading from no give at the arm is my guess, and only a guess. The other 2 bearings were still perfectly smooth.
It looks like corrosion locked up the arm. I'll reassemble with a touch of anti seize.
hoping for a good week of bike work.
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Oh...... almost forgot: I bought an OEM tool kit on Ebay and it arrived yesterday. It was missing a couple of items, but it had all the ones that my original tool kit was missing, so I combined them to make one complete tool kit. When I have the time, I'll post a picture of what I have left and offer them to anyone who can use them for just the cost of postage.
Also..... after inspecting the factory service manual I bought a few months ago more closely, I discovered that it was missing all of chapters 8, 9 and 10, and about the last 20% of chapter 7. So I found four of them on Ebay this morning and sent out an inquiry to all four sellers as to whether their copy was complete. The first person who responded not only assured me his was complete, but showed me how many pages there SHOULD be in each of the 19 chapters. Now that's what I call customer service! So I bought his.
Two more small steps in having a nice - and complete - '81 GS850G!
Also..... after inspecting the factory service manual I bought a few months ago more closely, I discovered that it was missing all of chapters 8, 9 and 10, and about the last 20% of chapter 7. So I found four of them on Ebay this morning and sent out an inquiry to all four sellers as to whether their copy was complete. The first person who responded not only assured me his was complete, but showed me how many pages there SHOULD be in each of the 19 chapters. Now that's what I call customer service! So I bought his.
Two more small steps in having a nice - and complete - '81 GS850G!
heres the PDF
http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS850_Manual_HiRes.pdf
Store this place and click around on it when you get a chance. many tutorials nd pages so its gonna take some time to familiarise yourslef...enjoy.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS850_Manual_HiRes.pdf
Store this place and click around on it when you get a chance. many tutorials nd pages so its gonna take some time to familiarise yourslef...enjoy.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
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Yup. I've already downloaded the manual, but I really wanted a nice, clean printed version. When I need a page to use on a repair, I'll burn a copy of it so I don't damage the original. The PFD that is on that website is a little difficult to use because the scans aren't crisp (though I do appreciate the effort that went into making it; that was a LOT of scanning!).
And yes, I have already saved BikeCliff's website into a folder with several other GS-related websites. There is a ton of information on these bikes out there. How cool is that!?
And yes, I have already saved BikeCliff's website into a folder with several other GS-related websites. There is a ton of information on these bikes out there. How cool is that!?
Discovered the tach drive sleeve busted in half on me - trying to figure out how this happened since I don't remember hitting it on anything unless something did when I wrecked in October.
I just posted in the parts wanted with the hope someone will have a spare. If not, I'll order a new one this week
I just posted in the parts wanted with the hope someone will have a spare. If not, I'll order a new one this week
MI GS850G guy, I had a similar problem to yours. I did a full teardown and rebuild of my carbs, bench synched them, and reinstalled them on new intake boots.
I then did a vacuum synch. The synch went well, but when I rode the bike I found that it didn't idle smoothly, and any throttle transition from closed throttle to open was clunky. I checked and also had a cold cylinder. I pulled 2 pods - the cold cylinder and the one next to it - and found the throttle plate on the cold cylinder completely closed, while the other was not. I matched the closed one to the one next to it, did the vacuum synch over, and its been good since.
A GS in proper tune is not typically cold blooded.
I then did a vacuum synch. The synch went well, but when I rode the bike I found that it didn't idle smoothly, and any throttle transition from closed throttle to open was clunky. I checked and also had a cold cylinder. I pulled 2 pods - the cold cylinder and the one next to it - and found the throttle plate on the cold cylinder completely closed, while the other was not. I matched the closed one to the one next to it, did the vacuum synch over, and its been good since.
A GS in proper tune is not typically cold blooded.
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Hi Dorkburger. Thanks for that feedback. So is a "throttle plate", and a "butterfly valve" the same thing? I have downloaded Mikuni BS carb rebuild tutorial and remember seeing the photo towards the end that shows all four butterfly valves adjusted such that there is a small opening at the bottom at closed throttle. The photo on the next page shows a small pin being used as a gauge for the size of the opening, but it doesn't specify the diameter of the pin. That would seem to be pretty important. Do you happen to know the spec for that?
Tomorrow is supposed to be partly cloudy and (relatively) warm. I'm really anxious to get my bike running right, so I may play hookie from work and pull the carbs and look at those butterfly valves. Somethin' ain't right in there.
Use a paper clip wire.
