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what did you wrench on today??

Re-terminated the rear brake light and turn signal wiring where it meets up with the wiring from my license plate bracket so that it uses proper connectors this time around. I'm down to just needing to bleed the front brakes, replace the rear brake light switch and bleed that brake, and then do a carb sync. My birthday is Sunday so I'm hoping I can take a ride that day.

Is this all on your GS550T rebuild?
 
There's a rattle on my GS750 at ~4krpm that I can't identify and I'm going to take the cam chain tensioner off to make sure it's working properly - Same procedure as the GS450 tensioner right? Do I have to worry about the cam chain jumping off the sprockets or anything (obviously won't be turning the engine or anything with it out)?
 
There's a rattle on my GS750 at ~4krpm that I can't identify and I'm going to take the cam chain tensioner off to make sure it's working properly - Same procedure as the GS450 tensioner right? Do I have to worry about the cam chain jumping off the sprockets or anything (obviously won't be turning the engine or anything with it out)?

if it has been a while since you checked your valves, might as well do it all. Will give you a chance to look inside and feel how loose or tight you chain is... some say put your bike at TDC in case the chain does skip on removal.

Is your sound a mysteriously-appearing-doesn't-really-fit-identified sound kind of somewhere between piston slap and valve lash ping-clacka that comes and goes loaded and unloaded and does not appear until bike is warmed up?
 
Just replaced the rear wheel bearings. Fronts are next. Took me about 1 hour total to get wheel off and swap bearings. Not too bad, actually.
 
Is this all on your GS550T rebuild?
No, I wrecked last year just 7 miles outside of Elkins West Virginia on my way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I bent the forks and messed up the lower triple tree so I've been putting it back together. Also wanted to fix a couple of smaller headaches involving some wiring I did a year or two ago.
 
if it has been a while since you checked your valves, might as well do it all. Will give you a chance to look inside and feel how loose or tight you chain is... some say put your bike at TDC in case the chain does skip on removal.

Is your sound a mysteriously-appearing-doesn't-really-fit-identified sound kind of somewhere between piston slap and valve lash ping-clacka that comes and goes loaded and unloaded and does not appear until bike is warmed up?

Just did the valves and full carb. teardown/clean. I bought the bike in the fall and rode it 240 miles home and have been fixing it up over the winter so I don't have lots of experience with riding it yet. The sound was there last year and it's more of a rattle/vibration. I'm going to pull the tensioner this weekend to check it out.
 
Rebuilt, reinstalled and bled the clutch slave cylinder last night. No problem bleeding at all just using the clutch handle.
 
Rebuilt, reinstalled and bled the clutch slave cylinder last night. No problem bleeding at all just using the clutch handle.

$15 vacuum pump from harbor freight.... fluid bleed or fluid flush takes 3 minutes.... and you don't have to stand funny to do it.
 
Got my two GS450 ebay cam chain tensioners, both came with 35+ years of grease, grime and goo without any extra charge from the seller. Cleaned off the exterior and rebuilt both of them and put the best operating one on my bike, cam chain noise gone, my original one plunger spring just gave up...its like a nerf basketball..really easy to pinch
... riding into work, stopped at Firehouse Subs, ate a sammich, got back on the bike and it would not start... all I heard was click click.. grrrrrr as my blood began to boil. Pop started the bike, got to work. Checked solenoid... no voltage on the starter side, pulled it off, starter side totally corroded, some 3-2-1 contact cleaner and a brass brush and we are all good again. Put a little dielectric grease on the terminals and checked ... click click... but this time voltage on the starter. YAY!! win #2 for the day. Pulled out the starter....had to remove the tensioner I just put on ....put it on the bench tester... nothing... took starter apart and mucked up with dust and corrosion... again with the contact cleaner and a little burnishing tool nice shiny copper again, plenty of room left on the brushes. Put the starter back together, took it to the bench tester and vroom she is whirring. Put starter and tensioner back on bike and I am not hitching a ride home in the morning. What a way to start off the work day.... ugh... but I got 3 wins.... and 1 loss... my noise (in another post) is coming from my clutch area... me thinkst that it may haveth some playeth.
 
$15 vacuum pump from harbor freight.... fluid bleed or fluid flush takes 3 minutes.... and you don't have to stand funny to do it.

I'll consider that for the next time I have to bleed something. This time, however, I didn't have to wait a week or more for the $15 pump to show up at my door.
 
I took today and tomorrow off and picked up some parts, registered the bike for another year, visited Sierra Electronics for some more bike farkles, changed out the rear brake light switch and fluid, finished some other small odds and ends on mine, and started putting Charmayne's valve cover back on. We're going to head back over later this evening and I'm hoping I'll be on the road for my birthday on Sunday.
 
Petcock.... dammit... coming home from work...after last nights fiasco... bike just wanted to die, no fuel. Drained tank, took off petcock and this is what I found. Disintegrated diaphragm. Rebuild kit ordered. couple of months ago when I bought the bike .... the diaphragm looked fine and was intact. Ya think this might be why the bike appeared to be running lean lately LOL.

View attachment 50355
 
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Petcock temporary fix.... 1 valve, fuel line, vacuum caps, fuel filter, and a dissection of the old diaphragm for a gasket. Works like a charm. You have to run the petcock on RESERVE or the bike will continue to suck the line dry. I will have to check the petcock to make sure it is clear when I rebuild it. I could blow air through it today...but that does not mean something isn't lodged in there.

Edit:

Vacuum caps at vac line on carb and back of petcock, I ran the fuel line to opposite side of bike ( choke and clutch in the way on the left side ) and put the valve and filter there and then back into carb fuel T.

View attachment 50356
 
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Wow..... that's some pretty clever shade tree engineering! Good on ya for thinking of that.
 
Progress, though small, has been made. Going to spend a 3 day weekend working on bike. Found a welder nearby. He charged me $40 to weld the shock tabs on the swingarm. I expressed outrage at the price and made him take more. I?d like to see him around next time I need him?.

Anyway, after shimming and jiggling wheel parts the chain lines up and doesn?t hit anything (with a 3/8 offset sprocket. On the other side the brake stay has sufficient clearance, although it may buff off the sharp edge of the tire (190-50) on sharp turns. I think you can see where I?m going with the footpegs. The clutch cover comes out another 1.25 inches to clear the lockup clutch. It would have taken major work for the stock rear brake stuff to clear the swingarm and the clutch cover. Easy fix is move it all outside. Maybe after I get better at welding I?ll try a monoshock conversion. This is becoming less a drag bike and more a sleeper sport bike. Final parts shipment en route, most of it should be here by Saturday. Paint the frame, touch up the motor, rebuild the brakes, install 2 step and CO2 shifter, let 'er rip.... Drag season starts Sunday, think I won't make week 1.

80-8.jpg

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1 step backwards, 1 step forward and another step backward this morning so far but it's looking promising to ride by Sunday. Started to do my carb sync this morning when I noticed the right side of the carbs had moved out of the airbox boots. Adjusted that and finished the carb sync then noticed one of my rear brake light wires that I just fixed yesterday came out of its crimp. I fixed that again so I just have my front brakes to work on this afternoon/evening and I'll be riding Sunday
 
Did some exploratory wrenching. As I mentioned elsewhere, I suspect my frame, engine mounts, or both are tweaked from crashes from the PO, me, or both. I spent some time rolling on the floor with a flashlight just looking at details and taking things in to try to get an overall picture of things before drawing conclusions. Based on the non original stator cover the bike came with, the repaired front engine mounting lug, and the way the sprockets misalign, it seems that the rear of the engine is pushed to the right.
I unbolted all but the front engine mounting bolts to see if anything had misalignment or tension that would indicate trouble. The right rear upper mounting bracket looks to be bent to the right, and the left rear lower frame bracket by the sprocket looks to be pushed in. This would verify my theory. Im taking this slow by design to allow myself to think and hopefully prevent myself from doing anything stupid with tools of persuasion. I really think that lower left bracket is the culprit. If I can pull it out, I think that may solve or at least help a lot..... more to come....
 
Two years ago, I bought a 2009 Wee Strom, DL650. A bit later, I bought a "Bestem" model 929 top box or travel trunk, and a Suzuki center stand. I made only half-hearted attempts to install them.

I haven't posted pictures in several years. Those will follow after I remember how.

Last week I installed the travel trunk. It comes with an adapter plate for luggage racks. I drilled four holes in it. Two were 3/4" at the very front, to provide access to the mounting bolts for the stock luggage rack. Two were in the rear, to bolt the adapter plate to the luggage rack. In the middle, a Bestem-provided steel channel is under the luggage rack, with bolts going through openings in the rack to pre-drilled holed in the adapter plate. The trunk is now installed mechanically. A 40 mile ride revealed no motion. The trunk is 46 liters, and can handle two full-face helmets.

I still need to wire the included brake light to the bike.

I plan to paint the box fluorescent green. Black doesn't attract the eye. Bright green does. I also have highly reflective tape to apply after the box is painted. People who own this box say that it turns into an oven in bright sun, getting hot enough distort a decorative red plastic band around the middle. In June and July in Albuquerque, highs often exceed 100F. Light green paint should reflect most light, reducing box temperatures.

I got the center stand 2/3 installed yesterday. The 650 Wee Strom comes without the center stand, a $250 accessory. I bought one from Ron Ayers, as the local Suzuki dealer wanted close to $400. The hangup was getting mounting bolts started with poor access and visibility, and my thumbs not working properly. After trying several approaches, I stumbled on one that worked. Bolts have blue Locktite. Bushings have Phil waterproof grease.

The springs aren't yet installed. I bought brake spring pliers, but the exhaust system is in the way. I really don't want to remove the exhaust system.

The kit did not include the rubber bumper that goes between the exhaust system and the center stand. I sent a note to Ron Ayers asking about this. In a pinch, I can fabricate a bumper. I work in a rubber products factory.
 
Finished the side project

my homage to the he GS1000's I drooled over as a teenager



IMG_2165.jpg


back to the big restomod after a work trip to LA
 
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