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what did you wrench on today??

I worked on my '66 Honda S90. A guy i know was having an anniversary and wanted to "recreate" a first date.
Apparently there wasn't quite as much room on the bike 50 years later. haha.





 
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Had some electrical gremlins and sorted that out but thought it would be nice to know when trouble is afoot. Hence the voltmeter and charging part unit. Battery is holding 13.2 or so till startup.
 
Bought another gs650g, the state of it was worse than I thought from the pictures, but the price was so low I couldn't argue.

The tires are from 2007, the bike is currently in a crank no start, the battery is dead, it has no spark, it leaks from at least 2 differrent spots, it's hard to find neutral gear(right below 2nd gear), the choke cable is broken and it has a lot of new electrical tape behind the headlight(assuming something shorted a lot of stuff out since it had 3 fuses blown).
So in other words, I got a busy summer when this bike is going to get sold again.
 

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A 650GM! Neat little baby kat! That should be a fun bike when you get it sorted.

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GM? What's the differences between the normal GS and this?
I removed the seats on both bikes(I have the 650gs next to it), and they are slightly different even though the slip says they're the same. Like the rear shocks and a strange cylindrical electronic device near the fuse area with 3 connectors comming out of it on the bike I wrote about above.
(By the way, the cover is broke, previus owner tried to repair it but one of the tabs didn't quite line up with the holes for attaching it.)
 
GM? What's the differences between the normal GS and this?
I removed the seats on both bikes(I have the 650gs next to it), and they are slightly different even though the slip says they're the same. Like the rear shocks and a strange cylindrical electronic device near the fuse area with 3 connectors comming out of it on the bike I wrote about above.
(By the way, the cover is broke, previus owner tried to repair it but one of the tabs didn't quite line up with the holes for attaching it.)

The GS650GM is the 650 Katana. The G means it's a shafty. I'm not sure about the M, except, that's the Katana. I don't know how many differences there are, other than the bodyowrk and seat. I think that was the only model that had that spoke pattern with the shaft drive.

They only show up here on the forum every few years. That one looks nearly complete. I hope you can save it. It should be a pretty little bike once it's cleaned up.
 
I had a 550M Kat for a bit, picked it up for $125, but the crank was twisted, so I bought a 79 550 engine for $75 & swapped it out.
 
No real wrenching, but I started the 1150 for the first time since last August. I had some concerns when I drained the carbs last fall and some nasty gas came out. It was uneventful, no difference then starting it after it sat for a week or two. I was happy and relieved.
 
Bummer… all 3 of my bikes has an issue/not rideable.
The 1100G needs a tach cable & seals. Ordered those from Bikebandit 2 weeks ago. Ordered another tach cable on ebay.
The CBR needs a water pump.
The Katana needs a tank cap and fork seals.
Parts ordered, all promised delivery by Friday, just have to wait.
 
Grudgingly got around to buying and fitting a (yet another) set of seal and o-rings for the tacho drive in the head.
Honestly, the cost per gram of those tiny little seals must be one of the highest outside of NASA, by the time shipping is taken into account. And would anyone wonder why I want to kick them into touch and use electrical gauges?
Hopefully, this new one will last a little longer, as I discovered the wear ridge on the tacho drive shaft was probably responsible for the relatively early demise of the previous one. A lick of carborundum-de-dum paper and it's all good again.
By the time this one pegs out, I should have the pair of electrical speedo and tacho gauges ready to fit.
 
I put in a new tach wire! So now my tach tachs again. Bike also ran different? It felt like it shifted easier and run smoother. Maybe it likes the heat.
 
Giving the DRz a full service. Completed valve adjust, carb tweak, oil change, coolant change, 3 of the 5 Locktite fixes (waiting for parts for the other 2), will do brake fluid flush and greasing with the 2 outstanding fixes.

Next comes the 78 (back there by the fuse panel) valve adjust, carb sync and brake fluid flush

Then, the VFR steering head bearings

IMG_20200522_155453871 by T, on Flickr
 
Project complete: GS1100G

Project complete: GS1100G

I think today I've finally got this metal head kicking as.
Seems I had the cam timing chain one tooth retarded. :stupid:
Ok, now I got it right.
Waiting for tach cables ordered from 2 different sources…bummer
5-22-2020_ weight: 557 lb.

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Sharp looking bike Bill.

I've always wanted to weigh mine. Did you go to a truck stop to use the scale?
 
track bike maintenance

track bike maintenance

New fork seals yesterday, new rear tire today: Michelin Power RS.
I must have learned something over the years, or just got lucky, both chores went fast and right, no F-UPs.

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After playing with this volt meter/USB port in different locations I decided to attach its base to the black plastic tach sleeve. It came with a handlebar mount but it really didn’t fit anywhere on the bars. So I cut of the circle part off, sanded a curve into the bottom to match the shape of the tach sleeve, and used ABS cement to affix the clip on base. I can un-clip it if I decide I don’t like it and spin the base around so you can’t see it.

And I found an unused switched 12V wire in the headlamp bucket to connect the volt meter to. Now I won’t have to remember to switch it off. It’s a cheap meter and reads a full volt below actual battery. I measured the wire going into the meter and that matched the battery -.1V So as long as I remember that this visual clue is 1 less than battery, I’m good.

And I cleaned every stinking bullet connector and electric plug on the entire bike with naval jelly, water, air, electrical contact spray, then deoxit. It honestly wasn’t as hard as I thought it was going to be.

I also learned that it’s possible to assemble the ignition switch exactly 180deg wrong. That’s a real kick in the knackers when you’ve spent a bunch of hours taking all the electricals apart, cleaning em, putting em back together, 99.9% sure you did everything correctly, turn the key and....swear a blue $(@)”(&:$: streak. Calmed down and figured it out.

I’m waiting on some parts for the rear end, that’s why I’m not riding on this beautiful day. I’m kind of glad I took the time to clean all the wiring. Now I know it’s clean.


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