Squarebody... cool..
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
Yep already a member, thanks. I got it home and inventoried the parts, looks to be all there and organized/bagged, all in good working condition, but tired. I will powder coat the black bits and (gulp) think about chroming some stuff - the fenders are not too bad but the rims need to be redone or replaced.
I really want it to be flake sunrise orange. Turns out the color on it isn't stock at least for '73. I prep and paint well but never did anything like that, I wonder if I can take it on, step up my game and equipment. I had a '76 750 about 25 years ago (was it really that long ago? wow...) and it was a sweet runner, I had no money at the time and found it for $200, fixed it up and rode it tons, then sold for a tidy profit when I moved to Australia.
The cool thing is it looks like the rear tire size is the same as the Avon I put on my GS1100E's front - 110/90-18. I really messed up on that, and now I can use it for the Honda, and go to a 100/90 on the GS.
Now I will put the new ultrasonic cleaner to work and get my neighbor to give me some more free powder coating. The old CB's seem pretty pricey nowadays so I will get it to a nice condition. My son thinks it'll be a good learner bike. Hmmm.
I really want it to be flake sunrise orange. Turns out the color on it isn't stock at least for '73. I prep and paint well but never did anything like that, I wonder if I can take it on, step up my game and equipment. I had a '76 750 about 25 years ago (was it really that long ago? wow...) and it was a sweet runner, I had no money at the time and found it for $200, fixed it up and rode it tons, then sold for a tidy profit when I moved to Australia.
The cool thing is it looks like the rear tire size is the same as the Avon I put on my GS1100E's front - 110/90-18. I really messed up on that, and now I can use it for the Honda, and go to a 100/90 on the GS.
Now I will put the new ultrasonic cleaner to work and get my neighbor to give me some more free powder coating. The old CB's seem pretty pricey nowadays so I will get it to a nice condition. My son thinks it'll be a good learner bike. Hmmm.
Finally started sorting and cleaning some LPs a friend gave me last year, (about 100 of them).
Looks like about 1/3 are trashed, while another 1/3 should be good enough to play, and the final third look really nice.
Some might even be worth some money, if I don't keep them.
What's in the magic cleaning solution?
TergiKleen™ Tergitol-based Fluid Concentrate
Expensive, but you only mix a few drops with distilled water. 1.6oz goes a long way.
Scrub them down with that, put them on the vacuum cleaner, and rinse with distilled water.
Trust me though, if you go to the classic stereo forums, record cleaning fluids threads, are like oil threads...LOL...
Ah LPs. I remember when I had a worn out one I had a second turntable and I'd transfer to a high quality cassette tape, and spritz the album with water while it played. Worked pretty well. I didn't want to use my good B&O for that duty. Then there were those 'pop and hiss' transient noise reducers. Good times....
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Not trying to turn this into a Honda thread but that is what I wrenched on today - I hoisted the CB out of the trailer in my garage (as it had no rear wheel mounted), and tore it down to basics. Frame came off the engine easy. I am really happy to find that the fundamentals are all good. I got the cylinder head and barrels off, and all it needs is a hone, rings, gaskets and a lap the valves, at least that's my first impression. Probably HD cylinder head studs as the stock ones stretch, and that's why they leak at base and top gasket - this one is no exception. It had 30K on the odometer and it seems a well-treated bike through the years. Cam, journals, etc are all looking good and in spec. Probably the easiest top end tear down I've ever done, everything just loosened up and came off with no problem.
It'll make a nice neighbor to the GS turbo, which I hope to get back this coming week. My good friend has a '74 CB750 and it's the same orange I want. He's going to give me his rear rim (mine is rusty), because he's going in a custom touring/bagger direction with it and got a 16" wheel. He's been at it 5 years and I think we're now at the same stage. Maybe I'll inspire him but he always has other messes to take care of.
Oh and the supposed MC mechanic I got it from was a hack, everything he touched was evident. The cam chain was completely slack, he had bought junk 'Duro' tires, put on ape-hangers etc. At least he stopped before he did more damage. Maybe he's a tire and oil changer but I would not let him near anything of mine.
It'll make a nice neighbor to the GS turbo, which I hope to get back this coming week. My good friend has a '74 CB750 and it's the same orange I want. He's going to give me his rear rim (mine is rusty), because he's going in a custom touring/bagger direction with it and got a 16" wheel. He's been at it 5 years and I think we're now at the same stage. Maybe I'll inspire him but he always has other messes to take care of.
Oh and the supposed MC mechanic I got it from was a hack, everything he touched was evident. The cam chain was completely slack, he had bought junk 'Duro' tires, put on ape-hangers etc. At least he stopped before he did more damage. Maybe he's a tire and oil changer but I would not let him near anything of mine.
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Some time ago I picked up a speedo knowing it wouldn't be long before I needed to replace mine. For whatever reason, maybe I assumed it didn't work because some parts were missing, I eventually buried it in a parts bin in the garage. Well, trying to figure out how fast I've been traveling using the tach was just dumb. Either this new (to me) speedo is way off or I've been hauling azz. Lucky I didn't get a ticket. While I thought I was cruising around 70 to 75mph, in reality I've been cruising at 80 to 85mph even higher to pass cars. oops!
Since I can't seem to post anything lately without a pic....or three....
The old one dropped some interesting stuff out of it.
I replaced the bulbs and it's crazy bright too. Now I need to do the tach too.
The trip counter is not functional which is a bummer. Also, the needle bounces a little, but I guess it's just an old GS thing.
Since I can't seem to post anything lately without a pic....or three....
The old one dropped some interesting stuff out of it.
I replaced the bulbs and it's crazy bright too. Now I need to do the tach too.
The trip counter is not functional which is a bummer. Also, the needle bounces a little, but I guess it's just an old GS thing.
Worked on the mountain bike today. With all of the use its been getting lately stuff is coming loose. Rear bearings last week, headstock tonight. Pulled off the forks, cleaned and regreased the bearings. There's still a touch of play I need to tighten up, but the motorbike was calling....
Trust me though, if you go to the classic stereo forums, record cleaning fluids threads, are like oil threads...LOL...
Isn't that the truth. Then add to that the doesn't sound nostalgic enough without the dust crowd.
You've got me motivated now. I have a 1977 Sansui belt drive table and there might be a velvet brush still hanging around.
Still can't figure how I ended up with two copies each of Rumours, The River and Harvest?
The 530 Oring chain I used from the parts bike I bought a few years ago is casting off rings....
least of my worries at the moment, and sort of a funny pic.
http://
Casting off O rings by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
least of my worries at the moment, and sort of a funny pic.
http://
Casting off O rings by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
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Guest
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I sanded the connectors in my right switch gear. Apparently my issue was not related to bad contacts, but rather a blown fuse (I replaced all five fuses too). Now I just need to re-solder the wire I disconnected to ride home and reassemble and I am back in buisness.
I will spray it down with some dielectric grease to hopefully prevent more corrosion (it was pretty corroded).
I feel somewhat dumb for thinking it was the killswitch and not thinking of the fuses. If I guessed the fuses first I could have just stuck a key into the slot and rode home.
Considering getting an Amplink by Rowe Electronics to make the electrical things more sensical.
I will spray it down with some dielectric grease to hopefully prevent more corrosion (it was pretty corroded).
I feel somewhat dumb for thinking it was the killswitch and not thinking of the fuses. If I guessed the fuses first I could have just stuck a key into the slot and rode home.
Considering getting an Amplink by Rowe Electronics to make the electrical things more sensical.
Fitted an improved air intake and filter.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...-issues-and-maintenance&p=2614661#post2614661
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...-issues-and-maintenance&p=2614661#post2614661
I've found my motorcycle restoration experience very useful in the MTB realm. My son rides the wheels off his, 30 mile days a few times a week is the norm, so he keeps me busy. With experience he crashes less and gets more life out of tires and brakes, it seems. I'm changing tires, pads, straightening derailleur hangers, and adjusting things much less per (his) mile.
I'm well stuck into the CB750, it's now down to basic elements and lots of parts on the way. Since I made a tidy profit on selling my Goldwings I got for free, I justify all the new parts - forks, repro seat, rings, gaskets, tires, etc. This bike is going to be very nice, I'm not cutting corners.
I'm well stuck into the CB750, it's now down to basic elements and lots of parts on the way. Since I made a tidy profit on selling my Goldwings I got for free, I justify all the new parts - forks, repro seat, rings, gaskets, tires, etc. This bike is going to be very nice, I'm not cutting corners.
How to do an oil change in many steps.....
Load a big pile of scrap metal into the car.
Sweat.
Drain the bike's oil.
Sweat.
Remove the oil cooler to make room to work due to the dumb, yet awesome Yoshi header.
Sweat some more.
Remove filter cover and sneak filter out between the narrow gap of the center header tubes.
More sweat- now mixed with oil on arms.
Put everything back together.
Shirt is fairly wet by now.
Shower, sleep.
Wake up, drink coffee while waiting for the scrapyard to open.
Go to scrapyard, get cash for oil and gas.
Buy oil.
Fill bike with oil.
Simple
Load a big pile of scrap metal into the car.
Sweat.
Drain the bike's oil.
Sweat.
Remove the oil cooler to make room to work due to the dumb, yet awesome Yoshi header.
Sweat some more.
Remove filter cover and sneak filter out between the narrow gap of the center header tubes.
More sweat- now mixed with oil on arms.
Put everything back together.
Shirt is fairly wet by now.
Shower, sleep.
Wake up, drink coffee while waiting for the scrapyard to open.
Go to scrapyard, get cash for oil and gas.
Buy oil.
Fill bike with oil.
Simple
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Guest
Guest
Today I rode the bike to my grandparents garage after soldering the wires back into the right hand switch gear. I couldnt get the assembly quite right, so its a bit lose (the hole switch assembly flips down).
I started by emptying the old oil out while it was warm. It seems the washer for the oil drain plug is stuck to the plug, not sure how to proced about that (replace the drain plug and get a copper washer maybe?).
Then I removed the oil filter cover, and removed the studs. The studs had messed up threads on the tips. Doing the two nut trick was almost impossible, I couldnt get the new nuts to grip the threads. Luckily I realized I could just take one of the old acorn nuts, and then screw it on until the top popped and used that (the old acorn nuts had equally messed up threads as the studs, so they somehow got grip?) and an intact acorn nut. Got all the studs out. Got two new studs in before I went home. Since I now have the teqnique I am confident putting in the last one will be fine. Hopefully then more oil stays inside the bike.
I removed the rear suspension, was pretty straightforward. Loosened the locking nut for the axle thing, it was quite easy.
I removed the brake pads, they were WORN.
Trying to remove the torque arm bolt I messed up (I didnt realize it had a cotter pin, arrgh), so its slightly damaged. I couldnt find a 14mm cup (I could find every other size though) so I couldnt get it off. Not sure how to proced about that. But I think I can just remove the other bolts, tie the caliper to something, and just slide it up. And then remove the wheel without removing the caliper.
I started by emptying the old oil out while it was warm. It seems the washer for the oil drain plug is stuck to the plug, not sure how to proced about that (replace the drain plug and get a copper washer maybe?).
Then I removed the oil filter cover, and removed the studs. The studs had messed up threads on the tips. Doing the two nut trick was almost impossible, I couldnt get the new nuts to grip the threads. Luckily I realized I could just take one of the old acorn nuts, and then screw it on until the top popped and used that (the old acorn nuts had equally messed up threads as the studs, so they somehow got grip?) and an intact acorn nut. Got all the studs out. Got two new studs in before I went home. Since I now have the teqnique I am confident putting in the last one will be fine. Hopefully then more oil stays inside the bike.
I removed the rear suspension, was pretty straightforward. Loosened the locking nut for the axle thing, it was quite easy.
I removed the brake pads, they were WORN.
Trying to remove the torque arm bolt I messed up (I didnt realize it had a cotter pin, arrgh), so its slightly damaged. I couldnt find a 14mm cup (I could find every other size though) so I couldnt get it off. Not sure how to proced about that. But I think I can just remove the other bolts, tie the caliper to something, and just slide it up. And then remove the wheel without removing the caliper.
Use a dental pick or similar to work your way around/under the crush washer, it will come off. Then replace it with a new one to ensure you don't have any leaks
I got a $15 manicure set for my funky old man feet off Amazon annd I've used 3x as much in my garage. Just passing along. Very good quality!
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I got my tyre off! The caliper can be stuck to the torque arm and you can still remove the wheel.
But the brake rotor is stuck...
Wonder if brake cleaner would penetrate between rim and disc...
But the brake rotor is stuck...
Wonder if brake cleaner would penetrate between rim and disc...
Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.
or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.
Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.
or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.
Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.
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Did you bend the folded up locking tabs down away from the Nuts that fasten the rotor to the wheel. See #15 on this front wheel diagram.
or #22 on this rear wheel diagram.
Brake cleaner is more likely to squirt back at your eyeball than penetrate a stuck bolt’s thread. Try a penetrating fluid like PB blaster. Not sure what’s available in Norway.
I don't have that on any of my wheels. They have acorn nuts and copper washers in the back. And acorn nuts and steel washers in the front.
I got the nuts of, but the disc itself was stuck. I found a loooong weird metal hammer (think its for getting bolts in the ground for party tents). I put a workers glove on the rotor and whacked it. Moved it around in a X position doing opposite sides. A few solid whacks and it was loose.
I think I have found a penetrating fluid at one of the stores, it supposedly cools, and penetrates. I have no idea if that works (WD40 seems to just squirt back into my eyes...). When using brake cleaner Im usually more carefull so that rarely hits me.
See pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/ry7xvHM
I also got all the studs in, and got the new oil filter cover on
Hope it doesn't leak now. I can't test because I need an oil drain washer.
