What needs grease/lube/anti-seize/loctite?

[daj12192]

What are your guys' thoughts on using any grease, lube, anti-seize, or loctite on threads? Are there certian threads that have to be treated? I don't want anything falling off unexpectedly or getting super glued on

 

[almarconi]

I use anti seize on fasteners that are made of one material and thread into another. Like steel bolts into aluminum (exhaust studs for example).Also on fasteners or items that will have to be removed at a later date (sparkplugs for example)

Loctite on bolts that if they came loose it could be disastrous (suspension bolts, sprocket bolts..etc). I usually use blue loctite for most fasteners.

Dielectric grease on electrical connections. High temperature grease on bearings, axles.etc.

 

[bwringer]

You manual explains all, other than if you've replaced the cheesy stock case screws with zooty stainless, you MUST use anti-seize. Also, use lots of anti-seize on exhaust bolts. The silvery Permatex stuff from any auto parts store is fine. (It's actually zinc-based.)

The manual specifies thread lock strength and grease types for everything else.

If you have a shaftie, the Honda 60% moly paste is the cat's ass for the splines in the rear wheel, and it's easy to find. Suzuki supposedly sells a moly paste for this too, but it's a lot harder to get.

 

[Nessism]

You manual explains all, other than if you've replaced the cheesy stock case screws with zooty stainless, you MUST use anti-seize. Also, use lots of anti-seize on exhaust bolts. The silvery Permatex stuff from any auto parts store is fine. (It's actually zinc-based.)

The manual specifies thread lock strength and grease types for everything else.

If you have a shaftie, the Honda 60% moly paste is the cat's ass for the splines in the rear wheel, and it's easy to find. Suzuki supposedly sells a moly paste for this too, but it's a lot harder to get.

Good advice here. The factory manual has instruction as to what bolts need thread lock. The recommended Threebond locker comes in a high temperature variety which is nice inside the engine, where the temps are, er, high. For run of the mill bolts around the bike you can also use anti-seize or even a little slathering of grease.

 

[Guest]

Ok, this thread saved me asking the question... except what do you guys mean when you say the "blue" loctite?

I can only see references to numbers, not colours...

For thread locking, I see the possibilities as a 243 which is a "General purpose, medium strength, oil resistant threadlocker", or a 272 which is a "High strength, fast curing, high temperature threadlocker".

The latter seems more appropriate especially for the crankcase bolts etc.

As far as anti seize goes, I see Loctite Zinc Anti Seize (formerly C-638) which is "Zinc anti-seize, protects aluminum and ferrous surfaces".

Am I on the right track here? Keeping in mind I'm planning on a stainless bolt kit from Z1 for the case covers so I will definitely need some anti seize on them...

 

[bwringer]

Ok, this thread saved me asking the question... except what do you guys mean when you say the "blue" loctite?

I can only see references to numbers, not colours...

For thread locking, I see the possibilities as a 243 which is a "General purpose, medium strength, oil resistant threadlocker", or a 272 which is a "High strength, fast curing, high temperature threadlocker".

The latter seems more appropriate especially for the crankcase bolts etc.

As far as anti seize goes, I see Loctite Zinc Anti Seize (formerly C-638) which is "Zinc anti-seize, protects aluminum and ferrous surfaces".

Am I on the right track here? Keeping in mind I'm planning on a stainless bolt kit from Z1 for the case covers so I will definitely need some anti seize on them...

243 is the blue medium strength. 272 is the red high strength.

NEVER EVER use the high strength/red thread locker on threads in aluminum -- it will destroy the threads if that fastener ever needs to be removed again. Use the high strength ONLY on steel/steel threads where you need something damn near permanent.


And yes, that's the correct anti-seize.

 

[Guest]

Aaaah I see! Glad I asked the question in that case!

272 goes off the list and I'll make sure I just use 243 and the anti seize and all should be well.

I love this forum...

 

[daj12192]

Thanks for the replies. Gotta love this forum

 

[Guest]

And thanks for starting the thread

 

[Road_Clam]

I'f it's one real fact i've learned over the past 30 years of wrenching motorcycles, it's ANTISIEZE EVERYTHING ! People will argue with me about prudently using loctite is certain situations, but IMO if it comes out or comes out hard, antisieze it. Chances are if you took it out once, it will probably have to take it out again ! (especially with my Alzheimer's disease wrenching skills)

If I absolutely have to resort to loctite (like every bolt on a dam Harley, LOL ) I only use Blue semi-permanant loctite.

 

[bwringer]

I also keep purple low-strength Loctite on hand for small bolts (the valve cover end caps, for example) or frequently removed bolts (certain valve cover bolts that always seem to loosen on their own for some reason).

The green penetrating Loctite is also quite handy at times.

And then there's also a high-temperature thread compound handy when installing exhaust studs.

Better living through chemistry...