what to do with the orange, orange/green wires on SH775 install?

[revilo]

Hi folks, I'm trying to connect a new SH775 in place of an old (and I think non-stock RR, it has black green and red wires in addition to the stator yellows, and seems bigger than a 'zuk unit). The question I have is thus:

The black (ground) wire comes out of the R/R and connects to orange and orange with green tracer wires. Given the way it has been connected I suspect the O and O/G wires were originally connected. How should I deal with them? I can A)run them to my SPG with the remainder of the black wire, B) join them together, C)or tape them off. I'm an electrical boob, so any simple feedback is appreciated!

Also, can I tape off the original power lead into the original R/R, as I plan on sending the SH775 positive direct to the battery, with a 30 amp fuse?

Thanks in advance!

 

[posplayr]

See GS Charging system Health.

If you have to hook the SH-775 direct to the battery , that is at least better than having a SHUNT R/R properly connected.

Since you apparently have your heart set on doing that, I'm even loath to mention that 30 amps is too large. Generally the max is 20 amps in that direct connect configuration. If you did it correctly then it would only be 15 amps and charge better , but then not everybody cares about such things..

 

[revilo]

Thanks. I'm open to suggestions, and shall downsize the fuse at your recommendation. I've read your excellent charging system health but again, as a electrical newbie, there is so much information to digest that it can become difficult to choose the correct path (pardon the electrical pun). The RR direct to battery was recommended by the supplier, and is simple, which is why I've chosen it. Looking at the plethora of diagrams on the site(did I mention information "overload"...another pun, sorry), it appears the best option is for the positive split into the ignition switch, and another to the battery via a 20 amp fuse? Again, your assistance is appreciated as I am a beginner electrician and am just trying to plug things in right to get the bike back on the road without a lot of theory. Cheers!

 

[posplayr]

Thanks. I'm open to suggestions, and shall downsize the fuse at your recommendation. I've read your excellent charging system health but again, as a electrical newbie, there is so much information to digest that it can become difficult to choose the correct path (pardon the electrical pun). The RR direct to battery was recommended by the supplier, and is simple, which is why I've chosen it. Looking at the plethora of diagrams on the site(did I mention information "overload"...another pun, sorry), it appears the best option is for the positive split into the ignition switch, and another to the battery via a 20 amp fuse? Again, your assistance is appreciated as I am a beginner electrician and am just trying to plug things in right to get the bike back on the road without a lot of theory. Cheers!

See the third picture down in this thread. It is the only schematic in the summary.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Charging-System-Health&p=1138531#post1138531

While I can understand your wanting to follow the manufacture's recommendation, I have demonstrated by analysis why retaining the Suzuki wiring harness configuration for positive power distribution is the best way to configure the R/R. I have also demonstrated by analysis why the SPG configuration that mirrors the positive side distribution is also best. As I recall, no one has come up with any issue in either analysis (that was valid at least), and there have been a large percentage of people that have followed this guidance and it has worked for them almost without flaw.

 

[revilo]

Ok, my confusion with this diagram arises from the red wires coming from the RR and how to plumb them into the current system. My bike has the battery positive connected directly to the starter solenoid. A red power wire goes from there to the fuse box. I'm a bit perplexed about the best way to work the R/R positive into the existing system. Tips?

 

[tom203]

Have a lookee at this wiring diagram, you'll find that red wire from battery positive powering the main fuse and another red wire from that fuse meeting up with the red wire from existing regulator. If you can't see it good enough , go here to this link and select the diagram for your model


http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[posplayr]

• Ok, my confusion with this diagram arises from the red wires coming from the RR and how to plumb them into the current system. My bike has the battery positive connected directly to the starter solenoid. A red power wire goes from there to the fuse box. I'm a bit perplexed about the best way to work the R/R positive into the existing system. Tips?

Except for the solenoid, the diagram I posted is identical. The connection is very simple. Three elements R/R(+), Battery(+), Ignition switch all connected at a common point called "T".

• The R/R(+) connects to the "T"
• The Battery(+) comes through the main 15A fuse and connects to the "T"
• The Ignition switch is powered from the "T".

If you look at the schematic Tom posted ,I'm sure it is exactly that was as is the diagram I showed you and the description above. If you want to know why that is a theoretical question which you said you did not want to get into.

You said you wanted it simple, the Red wire is already there right where you cut out the original R/R.

 

[revilo]

Excellent, thank you guys. That is about as simple as it gets for a novice like me. Surely you can understand the fear of letting out the purple smoke, no? In any case, that gives me the confidence to go ahead and do this. I've already got everything mounted up securely, and just need to do up the wiring.
Out of curiousity, what kind of connectors do you use to make your "T"? Also, what gauge of wire do you recommend out of the R/R into the red?

 

[posplayr]

Out of curiousity, what kind of connectors do you use to make your "T"? Also, what gauge of wire do you recommend out of the R/R into the red?

The "T" is already there. Just connect to the red harness wire to the R/R(+). Some people use the mating connector for the SH-775. It takes up a lot of space. If you have the space use it. Primary wires are 14 AWG.

 

[revilo]

Ok, ive messed something up. New stator and rr are in, but the voltage at the battery is showing 18 to nearly 20v and idle and revving respectively. Not sire if my multimeter is pooched or if I need to have a look back through the stator papers.

 

[posplayr]

Ok, ive messed something up. New stator and rr are in, but the voltage at the battery is showing 18 to nearly 20v and idle and revving respectively. Suffice to say it is birning fuses, the one powering the signal and brake lights. Starting to panic a little, where do i look first?

Not sure it is possible to do that. 18V at the battery would require a lot of current that is just not there at idle. Do the Quick test and report all 6 numbers.

 

[sam000lee]

Does anybody have any pictures of their SH775 setup? Mine comes tomorrow with the Triumph connector and I'll be in the same boat.
Any mounting tips for a GS450 would also be great since from what I've seen it looks a bit bigger than whats on there now!

I found this thread to be helpful also.

 

[tom203]

Doublecheck the grounding of r/r to battery and frame- maybe you lost this connection and the multimeter is unhappy or maybe you got meter on a AC voltage scale instead of DC.

 

[tom203]

?..
Any mounting tips for a GS450 would also be great since from what I've seen it looks a bit bigger than whats on there now!
.

lots of pics on here for different mounting locations. The SH-775 is big and that fancy connector consumes space too! So be ready to get creative!

 

[Lorenzo]

I can subscribe to the original implementation (via the standard fuse block).
Nothing to do with your suboptimal voltage reading, but you want to rewire the headlamp loop, green wire if I remember correctly, in case it applies to your configuration.

 

[revilo]

Good news, I slept on it, and checked it out this morning. Not sure if my multimeter is screwey or if I was mistaken last night, but this morning, everything is working and doing the proper voltages. Thanks again for the helpful advice. Now to get out the soldering iron and make these connections permanent.

FWIW, I was able to mount under the stock battery box in the stock location with some longer bolts to get the connector to clear the igniter and fusebox. I'll get a pic up later.

 

[posplayr]

Good news, I slept on it, and checked it out this morning. Not sure if my multimeter is screwey or if I was mistaken last night, but this morning, everything is working and doing the proper voltages. Thanks again for the helpful advice. Now to get out the soldering iron and make these connections permanent.

a quick test has wonderful healing effects for your GS.

 

[BigD_83]

a quick test has wonderful healing effects for your GS.

Hmmm,

I sense a little sarcasm in this statement.

Your multimeter may have been off, but if you were also blowing fuses, then something just isn't right. As Tom suggested, you might have a loose ground, or you could have a short on an exposed wire. Track it down before it comes back to bite you.

 

[posplayr]

Hmmm,

I sense a little sarcasm in this statement.

Perhaps, but nothing that is not true. The Quick Test is a sanity test. The first thing you have to be able to do is read a +12V battery's voltage and the OP has to overcome whatever hurdles he is having in doing that. Measuring 18V at idle is clearly wrong.

Ok, ive messed something up. New stator and rr are in, but the voltage at the battery is showing 18 to nearly 20v and idle and revving respectively. Not sire if my multimeter is pooched or if I need to have a look back through the stator papers.

 

[BigD_83]

Perhaps, but nothing that is not true. The Quick Test is a sanity test. The first thing you have to be able to do is read a +12V battery's voltage and the OP has to overcome whatever hurdles he is having in doing that. Measuring 18V at idle is clearly wrong.

To be honest, I misread your post...I thought you said "rest" not "t​est"