Where did my clutch go?

[Jbeaber]

Alright, was just about to take the project on its first ride since putting the new forks on. I get it outside, all set to start. I pull in the clutch, press the button and nothing happens.... very anticlimactic. If I put the bike into first, pull the clutch in, the bike will not roll. I did put the front mini faring on, but it doesn't seem to be putting any pressure on the clutch hose. It also avoids the gas tank. There doesn't seem to be anything touching it in ways that would impair its function. Any ideas? It was working fine a few days ago....

 

[SPARKSS]

Alright, was just about to take the project on its first ride since putting the new forks on. I get it outside, all set to start. I pull in the clutch, press the button and nothing happens.... very anticlimactic. If I put the bike into first, pull the clutch in, the bike will not roll. I did put the front mini faring on, but it doesn't seem to be putting any pressure on the clutch hose. It also avoids the gas tank. There doesn't seem to be anything touching it in ways that would impair its function. Any ideas? It was working fine a few days ago....

Hi there John. From your description, it sounds as if you're using a hydraulic clutch. Is this the case? Also, it sounds like you have 2 problems and that I'd be wanting to troubleshoot the "won't crank" problem first. If you're using a hydraulic clutch setup, can you see the slave cylinder moving when you stroke the clutch lever (master cylinder)? If it's a cable clutch you're describing, does the cable appear to be moving the clutch case lever when you move the handle? Is there resistance in either case (indicating that there's a clutch mechanical load being operated)? Did you recently put in new clutch plates or springs? If so, it's possible that you might NOT feel a complete release of the driveline with the engine shut off, though it may work ok when running......this will improve with riding (plates burnished and more parallel to each other).

Lots of questions and not much for answers eh!

 

[Jbeaber]

It is a wire clutch, not hydraulic (or it has the tiniest reservoir on the handlebars EVER). There is resistance, everything feels normal when i pull the lever in. I do feel the cable moving where it connects to the main engine body. Now, I haven't removed the front fairing. It does slightly move the cable from it's free movement it had prior to the fairing being put on. Biut it doesn't seem to me like that should cause enough of an issue to impair function. Absolutely nothing happens when i pull the clutch in and try to start the bike. Like the clutch was out. Is it two problems? Where is the clutch switch that tells the bike the clutch is in when starting?

 

[SPARKSS]

It is a wire clutch, not hydraulic (or it has the tiniest reservoir on the handlebars EVER). There is resistance, everything feels normal when i pull the lever in. I do feel the cable moving where it connects to the main engine body. Now, I haven't removed the front fairing. It does slightly move the cable from it's free movement it had prior to the fairing being put on. Biut it doesn't seem to me like that should cause enough of an issue to impair function. Absolutely nothing happens when i pull the clutch in and try to start the bike. Like the clutch was out. Is it two problems? Where is the clutch switch that tells the bike the clutch is in when starting?

First I wouldn't worry about anything touching the cable sheath.......unless it causes the cable to bend sharply, this will be of no consequence. As for the engine cranking over, the clutch switch will be right in the handle assembly (on the handlebars) most likely.......make sure you didn't bump the kill switch to off (VERY common).....and that you're in neutral. What year/model of bike is this?
Do you have a wiring diagram for it (and are you familiar with following it)?

 

[TheCafeKid]

Is the clutch cable broken by chance? or the adjustment out of wack?

 

[Jbeaber]

That would be a good explanation for the lack of turning over. What it doesn't explain is the lack of rolling when I pull the clutch in while the bike is in gear. I may have bumped something recently. I put new grips on the bike and may have bumped stuff while putting them on.... I will check the kill switch and the clutch switch....
It is a 1985 GS550ES. I do have the diagram. I will look at the switches...

 

[Jbeaber]

Doesn't seem to be broken. There is still resistance, like there was prior to the 'issue'.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I doubt its probably the case but i would check your linkage as well, perhaps something came loose or got knocked around to cause it. Otherwise...THAT IS WEIRD...lol

 

[Guest]

When the bike is cold oil will bind the clutch plates.

 

[Guest]

perhaps, you either forgot to tighten or it loosened up - the clamp on the clutch pivot on the clutch side.

Even without a bolt, this will work for a little while, but then it can start jumping teeth

ask me how I know

 

[Jbeaber]

I can get the bike to shift gears. It is the clutch lever up on the handle bar that is the problem. I can move the bike to any gear I want with the foot lever. The problem is that when I pull in the hand lever, nothing happens. So, I can't start the bike and I can't roll the bike around in gear with the lever pulled in. The lever gives resistance. If I push the connection to the engine a bit, then pull the hand lever I can feel movement of the wire in the sheathing. It just isn't putting the bike into neutral when the lever is pulled...

 

[Guest]

 

[Jbeaber]

Hey Chef-
Not understanding your ideas. Can you give me some more info? I have not gone near the gears at all. I try not to open engine cases if at all possible. Everything was working fine until at the worst a week ago. I haven't tried to start it in a week as I redid the front end and replaced the tires...

 

[Jbeaber]

So, sounds like I have two separate problems. How does one unbind clutch plates? Also, I know how to check and test the kill switch. It gave me a few problems a while ago. I will give it a full inspection tonight. It might have been bumped at tweaked while I put new grips on the bike. Where is the clutch switch that electrically tells the bike the clutch is pulled in? If it isn't the kill switch, I'm thinking that might be where the problem is....

 

[p_s]

There's some confusion because you seem to have two different problems (maybe).

Is your problem that the clutch lever interlock isn't working so you can't use the starter? It is quite easy to take apart and clean--it is under the clutch lever. Be careful not to lose any little pieces. (On my bike it's actually circumvented, which you can do quite easily, but it's not recommended--my wiring harness is a little nasty or I would have fixed it already.)

Or the clutch isn't engaging (connecting the crank and transmission)? Or disengaging (slipping)? Try adjusting the cables. Check that the outer is seated properly on both ends.

The clutch plates binding when cold isn't a problem--you have to start the engine, pull in the clutch, shift to first--that'll unbind them. It is normal. Maybe don't mess with the cable until you sort out the safety switch.

 

[Jbeaber]

So, I'll try to summarize what I know.
Went to start the bike last night. It was in neutral with the sidestand down. I pulled the clutch lever in, pressed the button and absolutely nothing happened. I put the sidestand up (and the sidestand light went out), tried to start it again, nothing... I put the bike in first, no change. I then noticed that the bike was not rolling. Pulling in the clutch level would not allow the bike to roll anymore. So, that makes me (and others) think that the clutch plates might be binding. Tho, the bike is acting as though the clutch lever is not being pulled in, no roll and no starting. It's not even trying to turn over. So, electrical problem and mechanical?
I did take a quick look at the kill switch and didn't see anything grossly wrong. That makes me want to check out the clutch lever electrical switch to make sure nothing is wrong there. It is weird that there might be two separate issues that both started at the same time.
I have recently taken the front end of the bike off for fork seals and tires. I also put grips on the bike, which may have jostled some stuff.

 

[Guest]

To bypass the clutch safety switch take out the headlight and find the two wires that lead to the clutch switch under the clutch lever. Pull out the two wires and plug the two wires left in the headlight into each other.
Clean the kill switch. Take out the two phillip screws under the throttle, starter button and kill switch and split it apart and clean the switch with contact cleaner. Pay extra attention to the starter button cleaning this also. There is a tiny slot below the starter button for access. Do not take it apart.

The picture I posted was just to let you see what your clutch looked like and help you trouble shoot. When I said that cold oil was binding you clutch plates I meant that there is oil in between the plates and it is cold. This is normal. When oil heats up it becomes thinner.

Take off #23 in the pic and see it the clutch cable is actually actuating the clutch.

 

[salty_monk]

Are you sure the cable isn't broken or the part at the engine end isn't moving on the post?

Dan

 

[p_s]

I think you only have an electrical problem. I just tried pushing my GS in first gear--it's been sitting since Tuesday evening and it's cold here. It was quite hard to push with the clutch pulled all the way. When the engine is running the clutch does its job perfectly. When you pull the clutch lever you stop the springs from pushing the clutch plates together but nothing pulls them apart either. The clutch interlock is under the lever and has nothing to do with clutch adjustment--it'll work even without a clutch cable.

I have mixed feelings on disabling the interlock--I have started the bike in gear before (oops) but it is nice to be able to hold all your gear in your left hand while starting the bike with your right.

 

[TheCafeKid]

My lil Kawi has no interlock...and I've done stupid things before, like leave her in gear, and not be paying attention when i go to hit the start button to see that the neutral light was not on, and then had to catch her with one hand as she falls...Not so bad on a lil 380lb bike...but i've also had to catch my GS the same way...not because of that same reason, as my GS has no interlock either, being a kickstart variety, but i near lost my intestines trying to snatch her up from sure doom...lol Its a somewhat helpless feeling to say the least, using your weight to counter its weight. Total stalemate.

Anyway...im still of the opinion that clutch cable is broke. Even with an interlock, wouldnt it start without the clutch pulled in when it was in neutral?? I guess if the interlock wasnt seeing that the bike was in neutral that could be the case too, but have you actually checked that your cable is pulling the linkage for the clutch on the other end?