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Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
Looks like someone has had camcover off in past! "horrid" boots ? from here they don't look too bad, about like mine. At least they didn't disintegrate on you (yet).
 
Looks like someone has had camcover off in past! "horrid" boots ? from here they don't look too bad, about like mine. At least they didn't disintegrate on you (yet).


Yeah they actually don't look to bad. I have to get down and take another look.

I am assuming someone has worked on the carbs before, as the rack bar is missing a screw....but who knows. The previous owner had only had the bike for about 2 months then sold it... so its hard telling what the PPO did...

Like I said, when I bought it my buddy rode it home about 1 hour ride. I didnt have my learning permit at that time, so it DID run!
 
I can't tell from your pics- are the EPA blocking plugs still in on idle air mixture screws?
 
Is there an easy way to shorten the clutch cable? The PO has it rather long it sticks out on the left side of the bike, I thought it was suppose to attach between the 1st and 2nd carb...
 
Is there an easy way to shorten the clutch cable? The PO has it rather long it sticks out on the left side of the bike, I thought it was suppose to attach between the 1st and 2nd carb...
On my shafty, the clutch cable snakes down between carbs 2 and 3 on airbox side and then hooks into that holder on engine. I'm unsure if E is the same- maybe someone got lazy and just threw on new cable without removing tank. Cable should not stick out like that!
 
On my shafty, the clutch cable snakes down between carbs 2 and 3 on airbox side and then hooks into that holder on engine. I'm unsure if E is the same- maybe someone got lazy and just threw on new cable without removing tank. Cable should not stick out like that!

Right, It already has a nick in the cable...can I cut it to length and attach? I doubt that as its a steel cable, or would I just buy another new clutch cable?
 
No, you cannot shorten it. Just not gonna happen. There is no way to reattach the ferrule (the barrel at the end) properly to make a long-term reliable cable. When I was at the Gap in 2004 Walker (of Walker's garage) was able to mend my broken cable by cutting it and brazing a new ferrule on it. But he cautioned me to replace the cable as soon as I got back home.
It is possible to reroute it to take up the slack if you feel it is too long. Personally, since you have everything exposed, I would order another one, perhaps shorter if you can find it, and keep that one as a spare. And always go with OEM for cables. I have found the Motion Pro cables to be lacking in comparison. I never go for a long ride without having a spare clutch and spare throttle cable. But that's just me.
 
Just pulled the airbox, it looks in good shape. The boots seem to be okay, I do not see any tears or anything, the rubber seems solid. Although one boot on the ridge were it slides into the box is smashed in, gonna be a pain to put back in the box. Another one looks almost like the carb melted it a bit, as I can see imprints of the clip in the rubber..

I may post pics later.
 
If it's nicked, get a new one. Your present cable might be correct length if it was routed correctly (under tank, etc.). Shop around - OEM is worth paying a premium for apparently. My spare is a good used stock one.
 
Starting the carb tear down process. Ran in to a snag with the carb rack screws, waiting to get my hammer drill back...

In the meantime, I am going to degrease the carbs. Any suggestions on a good grease removal agent?
 
Starting the carb tear down process. Ran in to a snag with the carb rack screws, waiting to get my hammer drill back...

In the meantime, I am going to degrease the carbs. Any suggestions on a good grease removal agent?
Don't use a hammer drill on them use a hand Impact driver to break them loose, while you are waiting you could degrease them with pine sol cleaner works pretty good
 
Anyone know a reliable website to buy some float bowl gaskets? I see some at the Z1 site but they don't specifically say for 81 650E.
 
Call them as they can look it up for sure. A lot of times they'll have stuff that won't show up on their site.
 
Starting the carb tear down process. Ran in to a snag with the carb rack screws, waiting to get my hammer drill back...

In the meantime, I am going to degrease the carbs. Any suggestions on a good grease removal agent?
Just grab them with 5 inch long vice-grip--it will break their 30 year old hold! Remember to keep carbs in individual containers.
 
Well I am deep into the tear down of carb 1.

I have never done a tear down before, but I think the carb looks pretty good thus far. The float bowl gasket was barely dirty, someone may have checked the float bowls recently, the gasket looks almost brand new. The float bowl screws were easy to remove, much to my happiness as others were a straight PITA.

Bad news though..

Have a big problem though... I THINK I may have stripped the pilot jet. I removed the rubber plug, which is in good condition, loaded the slot with wd-40 and carb cleaner, and waited 2 minutes. Stuck in my crafstman screw driver and proceeded to turn, it slipped pretty bad two times. So I stopped peered in and it looks to be stripped a bit. UH OH. So I loaded it up again with wd-40 and am taking a break...

I will post pics later of the carb to the point I am now.
 
Yeah, they probably put new float bowl gasket on it to cover up the crime scene- that bowl is ugly and its gunk has likely spread. You likely will have to grind a screwdriver to fit perfectly, the blade needs to go 95% across pilot jet head, so grind the sides down to suit- it's rare to have a screwdriver just happen to fit well.
 
You may want to dip the carb in Berrymans for a bit to see if that'll help get that jet unstuck. Also, I've had MUCH better luck with PB Blaster compared to WD40.
 
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