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Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
DO NOT get one from Z1 unless it is an OEM vacuum unit. Also, the fit varies between tanks. Make sure you have the tank you are going to use BEFORE you purchase the new petcock. It may be different.

The onesZ1 sells will work with his tank. I put one on an 81 650G this summer. Also, they don't come in a Suzuki box, but they are OEM petcocks. Same manufacturer Suzuki used for the small switch units.
It will be correct.
 
I don't understand what you mean by "tries to crank". does that mean it doesn't crank? cranks slowly? Have you charged the battery? if not, you need to. It should crank over quite quickly. If you look at the carbs from the left, you will see a couplr rods in front of them paralell to the rack of carbs. One rotates when you twist the throttle. The other one actuates the choke. If you pull on it to the left, that turns the choke on. These bikes normally want full choke and no throttle to start from cold. Your bike should have come with a safety switch requiring you to pull in the clutch in order to statr it. If that is still hooked up, you will need to tie it down or have someone hold it for you while you pull the choke rod and push the starter button. The clutch safety switch can easily be disconnected by messing about with wiring inside the headlight. You should probably wait until you have studied the wiring diagram a bit before jumping in there.
 
It cranks slowly. I don't have a battery tender. Going to pick one up tomorrow. I just got my choke cable in the mail as well. Having some issues hooking it up though.

I plan on draining the fuel out of the carbs and putting fresh oil and plugs in tomorrow, then seeing if she will turn over.



I don't understand what you mean by "tries to crank". does that mean it doesn't crank? cranks slowly? Have you charged the battery? if not, you need to. It should crank over quite quickly. If you look at the carbs from the left, you will see a couplr rods in front of them paralell to the rack of carbs. One rotates when you twist the throttle. The other one actuates the choke. If you pull on it to the left, that turns the choke on. These bikes normally want full choke and no throttle to start from cold. Your bike should have come with a safety switch requiring you to pull in the clutch in order to statr it. If that is still hooked up, you will need to tie it down or have someone hold it for you while you pull the choke rod and push the starter button. The clutch safety switch can easily be disconnected by messing about with wiring inside the headlight. You should probably wait until you have studied the wiring diagram a bit before jumping in there.
 
Sometimes studying the parts fische is more instructive than the manual for things like a choke cable. The manual will probably assume you already know how to do it. Its more difficult when its missing altogether.

It cranks slowly. I don't have a battery tender. Going to pick one up tomorrow. I just got my choke cable in the mail as well. Having some issues hooking it up though.

I plan on draining the fuel out of the carbs and putting fresh oil and plugs in tomorrow, then seeing if she will turn over.
 
Still working on getting the choke cable connected. The "new" gas tank should be here on Thursday :). I am going to pick up the petcock as well. Weeee!
 
I put on the tank from Ebay. I received my new petcock from Z1 in the mail. The petcock was not the right one. The fuel and vaccum nipples are on the opposite side of the original one, so that sucked. But I took the gasket and diaphram from the new one and put it on the old one. Seems to be okay.

I got the bike running for about 3 minutes. I put gas in it. Held the choke wide open and it fired up! But if I let go of choke, it would die. White smoke was coming from the exhaust heavily, on one the left exhaust more than the right. After the first minute of running, it died. I held it full choke open again then it would die after 20 seconds.

The battery is bad to, had to use a jumper to power the battery.
 
Found out the petcock is leaking fuel, the gasket is leaking. I have not had a lot of time to work on it with the holidays. I really need to rebuild the carbs.

Anyone around Cincinnati this weekend?
 
new z1 petcock was leaking?

new z1 petcock was leaking?

so was that a new z1 petcock that was leaking?
 
Yeah, well what happened was that the petcock from Z1 is the wrong one. The nipples for fuel and vaccum are on the opposite side of the original. So I took the diaphram, seals, filter, etc. from the new one and put them in the old one I got from the new tank I bought.

The fuelcock is leaking where it connects to the tank. I don't think it sealed correctly. I may need some type of sealant, not sure which though.
 
There should be some rubber/plastic tabs that fit around the mounting screws. That helps seal the petcock through those holes.
 
Yeah, well what happened was that the petcock from Z1 is the wrong one. The nipples for fuel and vaccum are on the opposite side of the original. So I took the diaphram, seals, filter, etc. from the new one and put them in the old one I got from the new tank I bought.

The fuelcock is leaking where it connects to the tank. I don't think it sealed correctly. I may need some type of sealant, not sure which though.
There are two special washers (steel with rubber insert) than go under the screws holding petcock- otherwise fuel can leak down and past the screw heads. I'll assume you used a new oval "o-ring" between tank and petcock. I'm surprised the Z-1 petcock parts fit into original petcock.
 
Yeah, the Z1 petcocks seldom fit exactly correct. Those washers have a name for them, I'll see if I can look it up.

Edit: they are called sealing washers. You need to get the metric size, and the fit needs to be quite snug.
 
Well the carbs are pulled, sort of.

I am stuck with the throttle cable!!! How the hell do you get this damn thing off, took me all afternoon to loosen air box and pull carbs, now this!
 
Roll the throttle wheel (where the carb-side cable end runs) upward to make as much slack as you can in the inner cable. Turn the round end so that the cable can fit through the slit on one side, and slide the end off to that side.

Oh, and make sure you hook the throttle back up before you push the carbs back in to the boots.

Well the carbs are pulled, sort of.

I am stuck with the throttle cable!!! How the hell do you get this damn thing off, took me all afternoon to loosen air box and pull carbs, now this!
 
I got it! I honestly don't know how, but the GF helped by twisting the throttle and I worked to pry it out. <---- sounds funny, ;)

Some pics of the carbs. and bike. Airbox is still on, I will pull that tomorrow, the boots on the air box look okay, the carb intake boots look horrid.












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