Zagg's Project: '78 GS750E

[nvr2old]

I do not have any pics of the bondo I used to fix the rust holes along the seems and the dents, but I had this briefly...


May I suggest while it's in this sate, not knowing how bad your pinholes of rust were at the seams, to grind away the bondo there, and re-do the repair with JB Weld. The gas, if there are actual holes, will eat right trough bondo or plastic filler in no time and your new paint job will be ruined. I've seen that happen to too many home projects.

 

[Zagg]

Onlt $20 to get that dent out?

Do it.

Well, not exactly. $20 was what I have invested in bondo, sandpaper, and the first couple rattle cans. What I mean is that instead of $100+ for a new tank, I could get this one decent for what I have invested already.

 

[Zagg]

I do not have any pics of the bondo I used to fix the rust holes along the seems and the dents, but I had this briefly...


May I suggest while it's in this sate, not knowing how bad your pinholes of rust were at the seams, to grind away the bondo there, and re-do the repair with JB Weld. The gas, if there are actual holes, will eat right trough bondo or plastic filler in no time and your new paint job will be ruined. I've seen that happen to too many home projects.

Oh man. I did not know that. Okay, well I guess it's back to the drawing board then. Thanks a lot that is very helpful!

 

[nvr2old]

JB Weld is gas "resistant". It's not a 100% guarantee fix, but it'll give you a much better chance of success. If there's even the slightest leak of gas, anywhere, your paint will be infected and will bubble. I always had good luck before starting any body work to take a pin-holed tank (stripped to bare metal) into a radiator repair shop. They can find the leaks and seal them just like they do a radiator, line the tank, and then pressure test for any pin holes. Unfortunately you've already done the body work and the submerged process would ruin that. That's why the JB Weld is basically a plan B. At this point I would also advise once the plastic filler is ground completely off to follow up with a stiff wire wheel on a drill. You need to actually re-open the pinholes so that the JB Weld will re-fill them. If you don't, the gas will seep through the plastic filler in the pin holes and there's a chance it will find it's way up and through the edges of the JB Weld. Good luck on your project.

 

[Zagg]

JB Weld is gas "resistant". It's not a 100% guarantee fix, but it'll give you a much better chance of success. If there's even the slightest leak of gas, anywhere, your paint will be infected and will bubble. I always had good luck before starting any body work to take a pin-holed tank (stripped to bare metal) into a radiator repair shop. They can find the leaks and seal them just like they do a radiator, line the tank, and then pressure test for any pin holes. Unfortunately you've already done the body work and the submerged process would ruin that. That's why the JB Weld is basically a plan B. At this point I would also advise once the plastic filler is ground completely off to follow up with a stiff wire wheel on a drill. You need to actually re-open the pinholes so that the JB Weld will re-fill them. If you don't, the gas will seep through the plastic filler in the pin holes and there's a chance it will find it's way up and through the edges of the JB Weld. Good luck on your project.

I didn't realize I was going down the wrong path on the repairs. Copy on the grind down. The P.O. had a mess of bondo on the bottom seams. I found the pinholes by grinding all that off down to bare metal. Thanks for the tips. I am heading back to the drawing board to re-think this one.

 

[Zagg]

I was not happy with hiding bondo under a nicely painted tank so after the comments by you guys I am heading down a different path but first.... back to zero...




Pinholes...




some dumbass grinding the **** out of a motorcycle fuel tank that was already bondo'd and primered...

 

[Zagg]

I did not do the braising? that left the globs of copper / bronze colored metal on the bottom. Maybe one of you guys who are more experienced than I can tell me what procedure created that.

 

[Zagg]

The thing that breaks my heart is the tank was near perfect before I dropped it.... I ordered a dent puller kit to clean up the tank before painting this time. May go the radiator repair route for the pinholes.... not sure on that one yet. Advice is welcome... I have decided against Kreme. I am looking for solutions that preserve the original tank.

 

[dorkburger]

Is replacing the tank out if the question?
I understand time already spent, known quantity, and such, but a repaired tank would likely bug me unless the bike was just a throw together project. ...

 

[bluehwy]

Kim Chambers is local near me in CA and he has supreme products you might like to check out. Don't hesitate to chat him up with questions either.
http://www.theshopproducts.com/shipping.html

What tank badges does that take? Do you have them? I have a couple for sale in the parts for sale forum...

 

[bluehwy]

Dito nvr2old... I had that problem with my R65LS. Someone before me fiberglassed and bondoed the heck out of it. Doesn't stop gas...

 

[Zagg]

Is replacing the tank out if the question?
I understand time already spent, known quantity, and such, but a repaired tank would likely bug me unless the bike was just a throw together project. ...

No, nothing is out of the question as of right now. I started a thread asking about using an 81 gs1100gl tank because the ebay seller was 20 minutes away, but I didn't get a single response. My only concern with going that route is that I am rolling the dice on getting something worse than what I have now. I won't know what's under the paint til I strip it. There are no more surprises with the one I have.

 

[nvr2old]

Now that you have it stripped again, have a radiator repair shop take a look at it and see if they can fill the pinholes with a combination of boiling it out, welding/soldering, sealing, and pressure testing it for you. The sealer they use is way different then other gooey alternatives. They don't charge that much, either. I've had great success with the service..and if it's something they can't repair, it at least let's you know where you stand.

 

[Zagg]

Now that you have it stripped again, have a radiator repair shop take a look at it and see if they can fill the pinholes with a combination of boiling it out, welding/soldering, sealing, and pressure testing it for you. The sealer they use is way different then other gooey alternatives. They don't charge that much, either. I've had great success with the service..and if it's something they can't repair, it at least let's you know where you stand.

Yep, will do. Coincidentally I was on a pre-salting run for the icy **** we got last night and the only property I have not serviced yet has a radiator shop on it. I will be looking into it shortly.

 

[Zagg]

The shifter was not mounted on the bike when I bought it and the shifter side plate was removed as well as the chain. Clutch cable was not hooked up. About a month ago I got everything cleaned up and put back together there and when I shifted the bike I could only shift from 1, N, and 2. It will not engage any higher gears. The shift lever still moves, but does not click into gear. I can shift back down again and hit neutral and 1st without issue.

Anyway, I am struggling to get all the screws out of the clutch mechanism side so I have not been able to look around in there yet, but in the meantime Frankenzuki offered me an engine off of a known runner to help me out. Thanks man! I had to pick it up in CT so it was a haul but a cool road trip. He's a cool dude and has been really helpful. Scored a cheap set of (3) slotted rotors for $50 as well. Here's some pics...

 

[Zagg]

The engine is in similar condition to mine, but the screws / bolts are pretty rusty. Aside from grime, my engine hasn't been bad on the exterior. I will get some updates posted soon.

 

[Zagg]

Got my dent puller kit from Amazon... Beats the hell out of the Harbor Freight kit for about $9.00 more. Here's pics of the dents that I want to play with and the puller kit. When these are done I will be using flux and solder to seal up the pinholes. If I can find a shop to do it, I will likely take the advice of nvr2old and get it pressure tested at the radiator shop.

This is the one I did... Sonofabitch. It's the worst damn one.









The kit has a metal bracket (as opposed to plastic) and 7 different discs for pulling the dents.

 

[Zagg]

Personally, I think that for all the fussing around that you are doing with all those various chemicals, you could have gone to your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart and gotten a can of Berryman's and had the job done correctly. For the record, GUNK brand carb dip does a fine job, as well as Yamaha's concentrated dip.

Think about how you had stuff cake on the outside surfaces of your carbs. You had to mechanically brush them off. Now consider that it's the INSIDE passages that are really critical, not the outside surfaces. Did you scrub them clean, as well?

Other than that, it appears that you are doing a decent job. :encouragement:

There is no doubt that after everything that Berryman's or GUNK was the answer for the carb cleaning. HUGE P.I.T.A. using vinegar and Pinesol.

 

[Zagg]

This is one of my posts from late 2015 / early 2016...
xNext STOP - Valve adjusting!
Timing - - - Not complete 1/16
Air Box Sealing - Velocity stacks from PJMotorsports
xPetcock - - - New 9/16
Calipers - - -Front Calipers rebuilt, painted 9/16
Master Cylinders - - - Front rebuilt 11/16
Fuel Tank - - - In Progress 1/17
Wiring Harness - - - Assembling parts for new 1/17
xCoil Test - - - Consensus seems to be rewire and go.
Stator Test - - - Not done yet 1/17
xBattery - - - AGM purchased 10/16
Battery Box Cleanup and Mount - - - In progress 1/17
xR/R Replacement - - - SH775 purchased, connectors purchased 1/17
Clutch Assembly - - - In progress, clutch cover screws seized currently 1/17
Headlight Mount - - - Nothing yet
Seat Mount - - - Measuring 1/17
Signals, Brake Light Mount - - -Have updated signals bookmarked, no money. 1/17

Gettin' there.... Damn that money tree.

 

[Zagg]

Things are not going super good with the paintless dent puller kit. I managed to get one mostly out, but I have used 3 or 4 glue sticks on two dents and only have one partially successful. I am going to have a guy tack weld a nail to the dents and pull them out that way.