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'81 GS550 Cafe Build

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  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    Busy week with non-bike stuff, but there have been a few developments….

    You might recall that I was having trouble removing the lower race from the steering head (it’s buried in a tapered portion of the head and not easily accessible from above). After making a few custom tools to try and drive it out from above, I was still stuck. I decided to resort to another tactic, so I borrowed a MIG welder, and carefully ran a bead around the inside of the race. As I’d read on here and elsewhere, it loosened up the race immediately. I then welded a couple of tabs onto the sides so that the welds stuck out enough so I could finish removing the race by tapping it out from above.

    Here it is. Free at last!


    I was so impressed with the welding tip, and facing a lot of small welding projects in my future (seat spacers and mounts, battery box, seat hoop, dash controls, etc. etc.), I broke down and bought myself a welder today! It’s a little 110v Lincoln model 140c that I’ve set up for MIG. I’ve been taking a welding course at a community college, and while I’d prefer a bigger unit or a TIG setup, I think this unit will work fine for sheet metal work/brackets/spacers, and to tack more important stuff together for TIG work (e.g., exposed frame pieces). I went back and forth between this welder and a Hobart model that was about $100 cheaper. I’m sure either would have worked well, but I prefer this Lincoln because I can fine-tune the voltage setting (Hobart has 4 “tapped” settings). Lincoln has a $75 rebate on it too, which will help a lot. I also got a good-sized tank (80cf) since it costs about the same price to fill as a smaller one, and it wasn’t much more to purchase than a tank half that size.

    I’m pretty excited about it. I got everything assembled and hooked up. Unfortunately, I can’t seem to find my welding gloves, so I’ll have to pick up a new pair tomorrow. I’m hoping to get a little welding done this weekend.


    I’ve FINALLY decided on an engine paint scheme. I won’t ruin the suspense (ha!) by posting it here, but my plan is to do a little more painting tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • 240punk
    Guest replied
    Inspiring.
    Subscribed.

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  • Nightcrawler
    Guest replied
    Awesome thread, so detailed I wish I had seen this before I undertook my 78 550. I also wish I could sand/polish as good as you can on these parts. I opted to just sand/paint most of the ones and your polished parts look much better.

    Keep it up.

    Leave a comment:


  • DannyMotor
    Guest replied
    I did mine as well... once it's mounted... you can't really see the top, just the lip... So focus more on the outside and it'll be time well spent .

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by bakirkwold View Post
    Nice job. The breather cover looks very close to mine.

    Nice! Yours looks a little cleaner. I didn't sand mine enough with 220 to get all of the scratches out.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Good Times View Post
    Just my thoughts...

    First I love the black on the jugs. Nice!

    I think I would go with polished cases and black out the rest of the motor. Seems like the silver head and cover would take away from the cases. It might be a little out of balance as I picture it in my head.

    BUT it all depends on what you are thinking with the rest of the color scheme on the bike. The aluminum paint might be balanced out by something else. What are you thinking covering the rest of the Redneck Rocket with?
    Here are the two engine paint/polish schemes I'm considering (one was the Dec '07 GS "bike of the month" and the other is from a thread on another forum).

    Option 1: Silver/black/polish (my black paint is not this shiny, but otherwise it would be identical)


    Option 2: Black/polish (this engine is basically identical to mine even though the bike frame/tank/seat are different).


    While I think Option 1 looks better with the engine sitting on the bench, the chrome cam caps, polished covers, polished carbs, and chrome exhaust will give me lots of bright "accents" to make it visually interesting when it's in the bike. So I think Option 2 might be a little nicer in the bike.

    The tank and seat cowling are going to be black. I'm thinking of using gold pin-striping on them, which will pick up the gold of the calipers and rear shock. Headlight will be powder-coated black. I'm leaving the upper triple tree "natural" and the fork tubes are polished.

    I'm going to take a few days to think about it. Keep those ideas (and votes!) coming.
    Last edited by Guest; 03-30-2012, 10:36 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bakirkwold
    Guest replied
    Nice job. The breather cover looks very close to mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Good Times
    Guest replied
    Just my thoughts...

    First I love the black on the jugs. Nice!

    I think I would go with polished cases and black out the rest of the motor. Seems like the silver head and cover would take away from the cases. It might be a little out of balance as I picture it in my head.

    BUT it all depends on what you are thinking with the rest of the color scheme on the bike. The aluminum paint might be balanced out by something else. What are you thinking covering the rest of the Redneck Rocket with?

    Leave a comment:


  • Sci85
    replied
    Do some looking around. Silver and black look really good together IMO on an engine. In some cases the head is black and the cylinders silver and others vice versa. I like the look personally.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    FINALLY, I have a little engine paint to show you.

    Just the cylinders though. Work has been nuts lately.

    The prep was as follows (in some cases there were repeated cycles of these steps):

    Washed part in soap/water
    Masked off and soda blasted
    Neutralized part in weak vinegar/water solution (twice)
    Dried with compressor between cleanings
    Scrubed and dunked with HOT, de-ionized water (multiple times) and re-dried
    Scrubbed with bottle brush and parts cleaner to get everything clean in the fins
    Cleaned EVERYTHING carefully with acetone and cotton swabs of various sizes until the swabs came out white-as-snow.
    Masked off delicate parts
    Sprayed with VHT engine primer (2 light coats)
    Sprayed with VHT black engine oxide paint (2 light coats and 1 medium coat + touch-up)






    Whew! I accidentally masked off too much on the bottom, so some of the bare aluminum sticks out. I’ll wait a full week for the paint to dry and then re-mask, prime+paint the missing spots. I didn’t sand much, so there are a few nicks and bumps here and there from the years of use (and abuse).

    I’m VERY happy with how it came out. The paint is a duller, sort of cast-iron black. It looks retro and fits the bike well. It also hides the flaws nicely and goes on easily. In a few tests, it seemed to “stick” well. With curing it’s supposed to be very gas-resistant too.
    Polished the breather cover too.

    Before……yuck!


    After!




    I’ve gotten a LOT better at this since I did the side covers. I’ll have to re-do those someday since they look dull in comparison to the carbs/breather. Oh well, I guess I’m climbing the learning curve.

    **Now for my dilemma*** I am certain that I am painting the bottom-end black and keeping the side covers polished. Cylinders are black.

    I recently decided to shy away from blacking out the top of the engine and was leaning toward painting the head and valve cover “universal aluminum silver” instead (I have the paint). I think it looks a little “top heavy” this way, but others I’ve shown mock-ups to thought it was great. Silver-color would also be more forgiving against chips and scrapes (since the layers and aluminum underneath are pretty much the same color). That said, I started thinking today about going back to my earlier plan and going all black on top too, except for the breather cover (polished), various fasteners, side covers, and the chrome cam covers parts on the ends. The chrome bits would really “pop” that way I think.

    Decisions…..decisions… Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by providedrailroad View Post
    Where'd you get that fabricated at? Got a phone number?
    It's a place about 15 minutes from my house called Brockie Manufacturing. A guy at my local metal shop recommended them to me. They do pretty much anything, so I might have them TIG weld the tubes so they look good. Here's their website: http://www.brockiefab.com/

    Pretty much any fabrication shop should be able to do it. I'm told that a lot of muffler shops bend tube too.

    Leave a comment:


  • providedrailroad
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by D-Mac View Post
    3/25/2012

    It’s been a couple of weeks since my last update, but progress is still creeping along.

    I finally got around to getting the rear tube bent for the seat. By buying 2’ of tube myself (matching the dimensions of the stock frame) and having a fabrication company bend it for me, I spent less than $20. Perfect fit too. Since I have an “extra” frame that came with the spare engine, I decided to test fit it to that one first before chopping the “good” one. A couple of pics….

    Before….


    After cutting….



    My seat is a very tight fit over the frame and I want part of the frame to be visible, so I cut some wood and figured out that it looks/fits good if I lift the base on the seat about ¾”. I’ll be welding some tubing so that it fits properly and is supported. Then I can just fasten the seat base to the frame. I’ve also cut some sheet metal to enclose the battery under the hump. Here is the actual cut and mocked-up.

    More pics. I will be raising the back of the tank up a little so that it lines up better with the seat.





    Ugh. Tank must have been leaking. Still gotta tackle that.


    I also managed to drive out the top steering head bearing race, but as some of you know the bottom one is tough to reach. After struggling with a piece of bent threaded rod, I’ve decided to weld a bead around the lower race. If it doesn’t fall out, I’ll at least have something sticking out enough to reach with a drift.

    Top race.


    I’m planning to TIG weld everything for the frame where I’m taking a welding course. It’ll take a few trips back and forth before it’s done.

    I still haven’t painted the top end of the engine yet, but final prep is basically done (one final acetone wipe and I’m ready to shoot). Hopefully this week.
    Where'd you get that fabricated at? Got a phone number?

    Leave a comment:


  • DannyMotor
    Guest replied
    What size bearings are you using on the top? I just need to know the thickness. I'm swapping mine over and need to figure out how wide to get the top bearing. From what I found they make them in 13mm, 14mm and 15mm... but I measured the race seat and it's only about 12mm high.

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Mac
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Sci85 View Post
    D-Mac, use this tool found in my thread I stole from Flyboy. Works like a champ to get the lower race out.

    Are you doing a restoration project of some kind on a GS? Let everyone see what you are doing by posting the details here.


    Sci85
    Thanks! I can't believe that I spent 45 minutes with a piece of bent threaded rod and never thought about this!

    I'll try it this week sometime.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sci85
    replied
    D-Mac, use this tool found in my thread I stole from Flyboy. Works like a champ to get the lower race out.

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...=185189&page=4

    Sci85

    Leave a comment:

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