'84 1150 rebuild

[londonboards]

One thing that might be upsetting your readings is the spring in the float bowl needle valve.

The manual calls for float tabs to be "just in contact" with the needle valve when you take the measurement. Over time, the little springs in these needle valves compress and at some point become useless. I have replaced needle valves that have had weak springs.

I tend to replace needle valve assemblies and O rings in most carb jobs as they are often the first part to fail. You do not want overflowing carbs.

At the end of the day, I am not sure that the difference in measurements that you are talking about would have a material difference in the operation of your carbs under normal circumstances. Just imagine what the fuel looks like when you are going over bumps, swishing from side to side and the vibration from the engine is zinging.

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[wyly]

I paid attention when setting the float height that the spring didn't compress from the float resting on it, which doesn't mean it hadn't compressed previously. That would explain the altered float height on servicing the carbs a previous mechanic adjusted for the compressed spring.

So, as long as the final fuel height is at the recommended factory setting of 3mm below the float bowl gasket it should be fine should it not?

[wyly]

Went shopping for a battery today and I was looking for sealed maintenance free type. Parts guy at the local Suzuki was stumped by my request his parts book only had the traditional type listed for 84's. Does anyone here know of a sealed unit that will fit the 1150?

[londonboards]

I would think so. Go for it.

[steve murdoch]

wyly, i use a Big Crank in the GS1000 and CBX with excellent results.

http://www.batterymart.com/SEARCH.html?q=1985+gs1150

[wyly]

Tires-do you have a preference between these two, Metzler Lasertec or BattleAx...I have Lazertecs on my CBX but I've no experience with the Battleax...

[wyly]

pistons in cylinder with no ring compressor, yeah that was a struggle 5hrs......

[wyly]

I see scratches on inside of #1, hmmm...I pull up the cylinder enough to check the rings and they're all good nothing that would cause a scratch. Cylinders have already been honed so I assume the scratches are the remains of the seized rings and debris from the broken plugs being dragged up and down. Very very light scratches the ring gaps will be much much bigger so I carry on. Cylinder head on, cam guides in, tomorrow I set the cam timing.

[steve murdoch]

pistons in cylinder with no ring compressor, yeah that was a struggle 5hrs......

5 hours would have had me in the loony bin.
I admire your patience.
Hey, it could have been the Honda. haha.

[wyly]

5 hours would have had me in the loony bin.
I admire your patience.
Hey, it could have been the Honda. haha.

well getting frustrated and annoyed I did give up at about 4hrs...I had supper, watched some tv then recruited a 2nd set of hands (the mrs) and went back at it in a calmer state of mind, done!

if I had to do this to my cbx I'd order ring compressors ahead of time...

[wyly]

so installed my cams, the intake lays in it's bed nicely...the exhaust cam sits up on the left.

the service manual says to tighten the caps down diagonally, but from where? where is the start point, is there a pattern/sequence.

is it okay to tighten down the one exhaust cam where is high and do no damage, I suppose the two valves underneath will open

[Carter Turk]

Tires-do you have a preference between these two, Metzler Lasertec or BattleAx...I have Lazertecs on my CBX but I've no experience with the Battleax...

I had a Battleax front, didn't like it, but many owners are happy with it. Don't like the feel of the Metzler, though that was on a 19'' front. I have a Pirelli Sport Demon on the front, but can't say I like it just yet. Seems better than the Battleax. My favorite was the Michelin Macadam 110/90/16, but they don't make it anymore. The PO crashed it showing off, so maybe the front end is slightly askew or my block off plates aren't allowing enough fork oil past. The old Kat handles way better, even better than the old RF 900 I owned briefly.

[wyly]

it seems from what I've read and people I've spoken to the when comparing Battleaxe with Lasertec it's a coin toss, both well liked. Since I have Metzlers on my CBX I'll try the Battleaxe on the 1150, and save a bit of cash vs the Metzlers too.

1150 rebuild brought to a halt by a wrench or lack of a wrench for at least a week. None of the four torque wrenches I own could measure the 8lbs required for the cam cap bolts. Even one that I bought specifically for that and measured in inch lbs was unable to do the job, I tightened to a point where I know I was easily past 8 lbs and still no click! So I ordered an electric version on line that measures from zero to 22lbs and uses led lights instead of clicks.

[londonboards]

At the level of 8lbs you are better off going by feel. Those cam cap threads are easily pulled out. Finger tight and half a turn with an allen key pretty much does the job - maybe a little more if it isn't seated correctly. Then maybe another quarter turn after a run.

I would never trust a torque wrench at such a low level. Trust your fingers

[wyly]

At the level of 8lbs you are better off going by feel. Those cam cap threads are easily pulled out. Finger tight and half a turn with an allen key pretty much does the job - maybe a little more if it isn't seated correctly. Then maybe another quarter turn after a run.

I would never trust a torque wrench at such a low level. Trust your fingers

thanks for the advice that will have to be my fallback procedure if I'm not happy with the torque wrench I ordered on line.
The problem I've found with click wrenches is that lowest range the click because inaudible, the wrench I'm waiting for uses led lights to guide the user and it's a 1/4 inch designed for low torque levels.