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I found NOS points cover and emblem and gasket

Not sure if still available nor who they were but in the past you could put in your model bike and order a complete set of either hex or allen head bolts to replace those dreaded Phillips (JIS)... Gosh that was handy.
 
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rphillips said:
Not sure if still available nor who they were but in the past you could put in your model bike and order a complete set of either hex or allen head bolts to replace those dreaded Phillips (JIS)... Gosh that was handy.
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yup ! I bought a little stainless hex head hardware M2 through M8,and have been changing everything that I can with it since those other pics were taken 😁 Amazon has that stuff at pretty good deals20260613_115817.jpg
 
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Yep, can sure do it that way, just be sure of length, a little too long or too short, or wrong thread can cause problems before you realize it. See you chose allen heads, good choice. Just me I always picked the hex heads... Keep up the good work,
 
rphillips said:
Yep, can sure do it that way, just be sure of length, a little too long or too short, or wrong thread can cause problems before you realize it. See you chose allen heads, good choice. Just me I always picked the hex heads... Keep up the good work,
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yes, I fit the right ones, I only use the same length, I get it. that's why I bought the different specific assortments. this isn't my first rodeo.
 
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Obvious the kit means nothing to you, but maybe somebody else reading the thread may find helpful. Your project, glad you're doing what is best for you. You got that GS850 looking pretty good, Like said keep up the good work.
 
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I've changed as a large amount of the factory fasteners with stainless allen heads. Then I read that stainless bolts don't work well with alloy engine parts. That freaked me out a little, so I pulled them one by one and put a light smear of antiseaze on each bolt.

Am I being paranoid here or is that the way to do it?
 
I did the same, switching to stainless allen head bolts and using antiseize on anything fastened to the head. Exhaust, tach drive and cam chain tensioner bolts in particular. I figured those are exposed to the highest temperatures and are likely to seize. The combination of heat and moisture greatly increases the likelihood of seized bolts, in my reasoning anyway. Another note, the antiseize stuff tends to provide enough lubrication to make it easier to accidentally over torque things though so be careful.

I live in a very dry climate and the GS's sleep indoors at night so fortunately rusty bolts are few and far between.
 
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Syd said:
I've changed as a large amount of the factory fasteners with stainless allen heads. Then I read that stainless bolts don't work well with alloy engine parts. That freaked me out a little, so I pulled them one by one and put a light smear of antiseaze on each bolt.

Am I being paranoid here or is that the way to do it?
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That is exactly the way to do it.

SS in aluminum WILL seize and cause all sorts of mayhem after a year or so. For that matter, stainless steel bolts used with stainless steel nuts also just LOVE to gall, so these also need antiseize. Stainless is also not quite as tough as the steel used in steel bolts, and it's far more brittle (most SS is technically stronger, but it won't stretch before failure). So only use SS replacements in lightly loaded applications. Case screws are fine, but don't use SS for things like motor mounts or calipers.

Switching to socket head fasteners can also really save a lot of time if you use t-handle hex tools; you can spin them right out.

I tend to buy boxes of the SS Socket head fasteners I need from McMaster-Carr, and I've built up an nice collection over the years.

I really haven't seen any reason to complain about the no-name Chinese fasteners from Amazon, but just bear in mind you don't know what alloy they're using or what ratings they have. The ones I've seen have had good thread fit and look nice, but as above, I wouldn't use stainless for anything super-critical anyway.




Oh, and yeah, those emblems look great! Getting the adhesive in exactly the right place is incredibly nerve-wracking.
 
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Have to love McMaster Carr, I have plenty of left over stock from my ‘83 GS1100ED days almost 20 years ago. Need 3 bolts, they send you 50😲😃😃, in a big ole box🤓🤓
 
bwringer said:
That is exactly the way to do it.

SS in aluminum WILL seize and cause all sorts of mayhem after a year or so. For that matter, stainless steel bolts used with stainless steel nuts also just LOVE to gall, so these also need antiseize. Stainless is also not quite as tough as the steel used in steel bolts, and it's far more brittle (most SS is technically stronger, but it won't stretch before failure). So only use SS replacements in lightly loaded applications. Case screws are fine, but don't use SS for things like motor mounts or calipers.

Switching to socket head fasteners can also really save a lot of time if you use t-handle hex tools; you can spin them right out.

I tend to buy boxes of the SS Socket head fasteners I need from McMaster-Carr, and I've built up an nice collection over the years.

I really haven't seen any reason to complain about the no-name Chinese fasteners from Amazon, but just bear in mind you don't know what alloy they're using or what ratings they have. The ones I've seen have had good thread fit and look nice, but as above, I wouldn't use stainless for anything super-critical anyway.




Oh, and yeah, those emblems look great! Getting the adhesive in exactly the right place is incredibly nerve-wracking.
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thanks for that info, I did not know that, so what is a good anti seize product to use ?
 
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Dan said:
thanks for that info, I did not know that, so what is a good anti seize product to use ?
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Most folks use the regular ol' silver Permatex antiseize found in every auto and hardware store. It's based on graphite, aluminum, and copper, and history has proven it to be a good all-purpose unguent for metallic interfaces.

This stuff:

Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant, 16 OZ | Permatex®

Protect metal parts with premium anti seize. Prevent rust, galling, and stuck bolts. Trusted solution for automotive, marine, and industrial use.
www.permatex.com www.permatex.com

Like anything lubricious, there's a lot of heated debate. From what I can tell, some swear the expensive and hard to find nickel-based gloop is the best and only acceptable, and most resistant to high heat. There are some hints that the copper based antiseize is great for aluminum/steel, but verboten when stainless steel is involved. And there are non-metallic elixirs (based on graphite, calcium chloride) that are supposed to be just the ticket for stainless steel, and others based on molybdenum. And of course, these exotic brews may not really be needed for the low-stress applications we're discussing.

I'm not a metallologist, but if one comes along, perhaps they'll enlighten us.
 
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I also have those new emblems, nos, but I haven't attached them yet because I'm afraid I'll lose them. Will the 45-year-old glue work? Or what should I use?
 
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