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1978 GS1000 overhaul crank twist / Gaskets

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackStar
  • Start date Start date
B

BlackStar

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Iv'e torn in to my 1978 GS1000 to resolve my low compression numbers. The bike has 14,0000 original miles on it. I'm at the point of no return on this money wise, I have to proceed or what I have put into it will be wasted.

The head is in at Schnitz racing in Decatur, Indiana for a valve job and check-out.

The cylinder bores have rust pits in them, but no gouges or any other issues. The rings were not carboned up or stuck as I originally suspected. The bike sat in a yard shed for 15 years. I'm planning to install a 1085 kit.

What I did find was that the crank is twisted a little between 1 and 4 (over the length of the crank). #1 at TDC (found withn dial indicator) lines up with the timing mark perfectly. #4 piston is about 1/16th down. The machinist at Schnitz told me to check the crank. He worked at the dealership that my uncle bought the bike new at back in 1978 and indicated that crank twisting was not unusual and that Suzuki warranted a lot of these beyond the original warranty period. This same information was repeated by the crank shop that I'm sending the crank to (Pearson Racing in West Alexandria, Ohio). Just wanted to pass this info along. My Uncle did ride it hard back them. He was into the street racing thing, when the bike was king. I suspect it happened in the summer of '78 or '79.

I am getting the crank Indexed, trued, and welded.

What brand of gaskets have you guys had good luck with? Schnitz told me that the fiber base gaskets on these bikes are prone to failure around the pressure ports going up to the head. He reccomended one re-enforced with copper or aluminum. Does anybody have any experience with this? The pressure ports have O-rings around them so maybe I need to ask him for clarification.

I'll keep you all posted on the progress.

Oh yea, he also mentioned inspecting the clutch basket hub where the cushion springs are at. I guess they can fail by breaking and taking the oil pump out. I do remeber seeing my uncle doing holeshots with the bike, which is probably how the crank got twisted.

Is there anything else I need to be aware of or check closely during the overhaul?

Thanks for your indulgence.
 
very interesting. i have nothing to add but will be watching this thread.
 
You would probably want to send the crank to Gardner Racing to have it serviced.

Jay
 
1085 kit arived yesterday (thanks Dynoman for the $60.00 off sale)

pick up head from Schnitz racing next week, drop off Cyl. for boring.

Crank successfully made it to Pearson racing for overhaul.

Cleaning parts today.
 
cool 1000

cool 1000

how is your clutch basket?

once you get the crank,cylinders,and head squared away all that power needs to get smoothly through the clutch,and transmission,.

are you going to do any work to your transmission? back cut 2nd and 3rd?

weld and re smooth out the back of the clutch basket? (if needed)
maybe an 1100 clutch??
 
I've had good luck with the Vesrah gasket sets. I usually get mine from Z1Enterprises, but other companies carry them. Z1 just seems to go the extra mile, but you have to call them and talk to Jeff or someone else there.
I agree that you may want to upgrade the clutch basket with the added power you are going to be putting down.
 
The clutch basket is fairly new. I don't plan any trans mods. I need to look into the clutch basket re-enforcements. I don't plan on any holeshots or anything, but I'd rather do it once and be done with it.
 
I picked up my head today from Schnitz Racing. Excellent, got a spec. sheet with all the measurements and parameters from my head. Shims are all near center of range. Intake ports matched to my RS34 carb boots.


Cylinders will be done next week.
 
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Hey BlackStar (tried to come up with a shorty name for you, but BS or Black just sounded a lil un PC..lol) Out of curiosity how much did that run you?? I'm thinking about having mine done if its not rediculously expensive.
 
It was $258.00 which included $48.00 for port matching to my RS34 carb boots. Included diss-assy clean and inspect, valve-job, set installed heights, surfaced head 0.004 to clean up, set up springs, and bench shim.
 
WOW!! Thats pretty damn cheap! And you're installing a bore kit, how much was the kit (mine would be different as i only have a 750 8 valve) and how much is it going to cost to have the cylinders done..im not trying to be nosey im just trying to get a feel for what it will cost me to have it done.
 
Dynoman has a $60.00 off sale on Wiseco big bore kits. Mine was $395.00 to my door. Cylinder boring is $132.00 for all 4.
 
WOW...i checked Wiseco for mine and it was over 500 bucks
Not that its not worth it to go from 750 to 844...but still..
 
so more or less it would be about a grand-ish for the bore job and parts and milling the head and what not...thats not bad really. Especially since i plan on KEEPING this bike
 
I'm kinda in the same position as far as keeping the bike, my uncle who I am very close to, bought it new when I was 17. He gave it to me in May 07. I'll have it until I die.

Hey I got my 100th post!
 
Well ive had a bunch of different bikes..most i did cosmetic cafe stuff to and then sold them off. Never found the ONE yanno? But ive pretty much fallen in love with this old 77 GS750B...There is only one bike that i would prolly have over it, and that would be a Kaw Z1 900...but i dont have between 6 and 10 thousand bucks to spend..lol
 
The Z1 market has gone nuts! And the parts availability too. I hear the Zuki's handle better?
 
They are a bit more balanced seemingly...but you can look at a 73 Z1 and see with no doubt where Zook got their design ideas for the 8valve motor
 
Parts are all back and getting it together. Thanks to Schnitz racing in Decatur Indiana (valve job, bore) and Pearson Racing in West Alexandria, Ohio (crank index, true, weld).
 
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