J
jeffasaurus2
Guest
If you're looking at the Suzuki parts fiche it gives the bolt size and length in the part number. I don't exactly remember how though, hopefully someone wiser will chime in.
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M
MLow
Guest
I'm looking at a clymer up and down. Can't see any mention of the sizes just torque settings for all the bolts.
Ugh.
J
jeffasaurus2
Guest
Go to G&S Suzuki's website and look up your bike. They give Suzuki direct part numbers for bolts, the last 5 or so digits give diam. and length somehow
You guys know how to use the search feature....right ? 
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137913&highlight=bolt+sizes
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137913&highlight=bolt+sizes
M
MLow
Guest
Ohhh my god thank you guys so much. Totally on track now for bolts. I just need to comb over the bike and check everything that is missing or looks old. Or hell, replace them all! ahahah
So allen head stainless steel for things like the sprocket cover. What about parts like the pegs where there will be more stress? Grade 5 or 8 with a coating? Maybe put some lithium grease on the head to help it a little with rust?
I'll hopefully get a list tonight and pick them up tomorrow. Either from home depot or a bolt company monday when they open.
So allen head stainless steel for things like the sprocket cover. What about parts like the pegs where there will be more stress? Grade 5 or 8 with a coating? Maybe put some lithium grease on the head to help it a little with rust?
I'll hopefully get a list tonight and pick them up tomorrow. Either from home depot or a bolt company monday when they open.
M
MLow
Guest
So while I was combing the bike for bolt sizes and such I got some presents in the mail. Oil filter and seal(figure it probably needs a change), used gs450ga 1983 throttle and RH side switches, 1980 gs450et left hand switches and grip, and exhaust gaskets. So I put those grips and switches on, really fleshes out the whole handlebars 
. Still need the clamps for the top(in the mail) and I can snap a pic yay.
As far as the clutch push rod goes, no idea if the clutch is frozen or what cause I can't budge the thing. Would probably help if I have the sprocket cover bolted on though.
The tank bolt has me confused I'm trying to find the size. Also missing a rubber bumper for the right side. Gunna be hard to find that size. Almost impossible to find that rubber bumper thing. Any ideas?
. Still need the clamps for the top(in the mail) and I can snap a pic yay. As far as the clutch push rod goes, no idea if the clutch is frozen or what cause I can't budge the thing. Would probably help if I have the sprocket cover bolted on though.
The tank bolt has me confused I'm trying to find the size. Also missing a rubber bumper for the right side. Gunna be hard to find that size. Almost impossible to find that rubber bumper thing. Any ideas?
G
Guest
Guest
Hey mate, welcome! Definitely a long way to go there!
Your carb diagram you posted is not the right one for your carbs, that looks like the earlier 400/425 carbs perhaps, but definitely not the 450 carbs.
The idle adjustment is underneath to start with...
The carbs are BS34SS and the float bowls have the pilot and main jets in them.
Your carb diagram you posted is not the right one for your carbs, that looks like the earlier 400/425 carbs perhaps, but definitely not the 450 carbs.
The idle adjustment is underneath to start with...
The carbs are BS34SS and the float bowls have the pilot and main jets in them.
M
MLow
Guest
Best I can tell I ordered the right carbs off ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331030614287
Tell me what you think.
I really appreciate your feedback, I read like 50 pages of your rebuild thread the other night. Some pretty cool pics of the internals, and your paint job.
Quite the journey.
We're getting close to the point where I want to test fire it. It last ran a couple years ago, according the guy I purchased it from. So we will change the oil, check the electronics and wire things up. When the exhaust/carbs come in there wont be much to do other than try to fire it up.
Have yet to go over the electronics more than, what's missing, whats not, but as clean as the electronics look(ignitor unit, R/R, coils, plug caps) I'm thinking they work.
So maybe some backstory is needed. Apparently the original owner let it fall to disrepaired state(probably let it sit and carbs got stuck) sold it cheap. New owner junks the old rusted and torn parts, puts custom janky replacements on, rides it til he gets bored(it is a 450 from 1980) then sells it to a guy who repairs bikes, this guy then has a garage full of bikes and realizes he has too much on his plate and sells them off to a guy I know who promptly buys too many 'projects' of his own. That is where we are. So the bike has been apart for about 2 years, before that it was ridden as some kind of franken bike. I've bought a lot of used original parts, they are starting to slowly 1 by 1 come in the mail, and bolted on.
What can I do to go about testing the condition of the engine. I put it in first and pulled the plugs to push it around and see if it had compression(it does, very hard to push in 1st even with plugs out). Lot's of plop plop sounds. Air sounds, not mechanical. So I assumed that things can't be too bad in there.
Should I change the oil, try to run the starter with plugs in? Mind you it has no carbs or exhaust. So it will just be a test of compression and the starter basically. But would that hurt anything to do a short test? Just to make sure the starter works, and that loud bangs don't happen or something like that. I'd really rather not strip the whole motor down, when I have no reason to believe it's broken. Like I said 2 years ago, running, was since taken apart at some point.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks mate, doing my 450 was fun and I still love ridin' it every day.
Those carbs are the right ones, good score there.
To compression test, all you need is the starter motor and a good battery. Either leave the carbs off or if they're on, you need to hold the throttle wide open.
Let the starter turn it for a few cranks with the gauge in the plug hole and see how it goes. If it reads low, add a few drops of oil and try again.
Keep in mind compression usually looks low on an engine that hasn't been run for a long time.
Also, valves out of adjustment can impact compression figures.
Those carbs are the right ones, good score there.
To compression test, all you need is the starter motor and a good battery. Either leave the carbs off or if they're on, you need to hold the throttle wide open.
Let the starter turn it for a few cranks with the gauge in the plug hole and see how it goes. If it reads low, add a few drops of oil and try again.
Keep in mind compression usually looks low on an engine that hasn't been run for a long time.
Also, valves out of adjustment can impact compression figures.
M
MLow
Guest
How hard is it to do the valves on this engine, I did it on my ninja and it was a pain! But it did improve wheelie time 10 fold. J/K, but it made her purr way better. Needed carb sync afterwards.
The only hard part is cleaning the gasket surface. If the PO knew what he was doing, it will pop right off.
M
MLow
Guest
Ok update time.
Did a whole bunch of work on the wiring, really only an hour and half to wire it mostly up.
Tested the starter solenoid that came in them mail, clicks real loud. I assume it works it was listed as working.
The gear indicator panel doesnt light up on any gears, I cycled them all. The instrument lights work, the neutral light works it lights up on neutral correctly. Still a bunch of stuff like the headlight/tail light combo/signals not on the bike so I can't test them, I'm missing the mounts for them, and I'm missing one rear turn signal I think. it's the one with a soft mount, I have the 2 with metal stalks.(I assume the ones with metal stalks are the front.) Horn works.
And the starter motor works! I got excited about that one because the paper towel wads I had in the exhaust ports shot out across the garage. I hope thats a sign of good compression! I have yet to buy a compression gauge.
No spark, tested with the two plugs that were on the bike so hopefully they are bad plugs. Hopefully it's not a sign of more parts to buy like the ignitor unit which is $100....
Maybe I didn't have the electricals grounded correctly for the ignitor to work. Maybe the timing unit, I will have to look into how to test and diagnose a no spark situation. The only experience I have is with mopeds.
Where to go from here, I am going to just buy the bolts that i've been meaning to get from a bolt company. Strong bolts, not home depot stuff. Some new b8es plugs. I need to get the rubber bumper thing for the gas tank, and the clips for the airbox scoop. From there it looks like little things. And a whole lot of putting together and testing.
The grounding thing really has me confused. There are 2 bolt connector wires with black/white wire. I just hooked them both up to the battery negative. But it seems like maybe one goes to the battery and another to the frame. But there is already a solid black that bolts to the engine behind the swingarm then to the battery negative, so I assumed the engine was grounded and by proxy the frame. Aside from that I don't know what else to do.
I'm also at a loss as for how to mound the gauges to the triple tree. I guess I will have to order something or make something.
Did a whole bunch of work on the wiring, really only an hour and half to wire it mostly up.
Tested the starter solenoid that came in them mail, clicks real loud. I assume it works it was listed as working.
The gear indicator panel doesnt light up on any gears, I cycled them all. The instrument lights work, the neutral light works it lights up on neutral correctly. Still a bunch of stuff like the headlight/tail light combo/signals not on the bike so I can't test them, I'm missing the mounts for them, and I'm missing one rear turn signal I think. it's the one with a soft mount, I have the 2 with metal stalks.(I assume the ones with metal stalks are the front.) Horn works.
And the starter motor works! I got excited about that one because the paper towel wads I had in the exhaust ports shot out across the garage. I hope thats a sign of good compression! I have yet to buy a compression gauge.
No spark, tested with the two plugs that were on the bike so hopefully they are bad plugs. Hopefully it's not a sign of more parts to buy like the ignitor unit which is $100....
Maybe I didn't have the electricals grounded correctly for the ignitor to work. Maybe the timing unit, I will have to look into how to test and diagnose a no spark situation. The only experience I have is with mopeds.
Where to go from here, I am going to just buy the bolts that i've been meaning to get from a bolt company. Strong bolts, not home depot stuff. Some new b8es plugs. I need to get the rubber bumper thing for the gas tank, and the clips for the airbox scoop. From there it looks like little things. And a whole lot of putting together and testing.
The grounding thing really has me confused. There are 2 bolt connector wires with black/white wire. I just hooked them both up to the battery negative. But it seems like maybe one goes to the battery and another to the frame. But there is already a solid black that bolts to the engine behind the swingarm then to the battery negative, so I assumed the engine was grounded and by proxy the frame. Aside from that I don't know what else to do.
I'm also at a loss as for how to mound the gauges to the triple tree. I guess I will have to order something or make something.
J
jeffasaurus2
Guest
Great news on your electrical work so far! Hopefully your spark issue is something easy.
Most of those little ground wires can go straight to the battery. There should be one larger gauge wire that leads from the negative terminal to a ground on the underside of the rear of the engine.
Most of those little ground wires can go straight to the battery. There should be one larger gauge wire that leads from the negative terminal to a ground on the underside of the rear of the engine.
M
MLow
Guest
Ok the clutch is super sticky. I'm guessing it sat in gear for a while. Any tips for loosening it up? I have to push real hard on the wheel, and even then it's really hard to move, with clutch pulled in, and in gear. Neutral is free spinning though.
It's like gooey. Don't know how to describe it.
I bought some new plugs, going to check if they have spark. If not I have no idea what to check and how.
It's like gooey. Don't know how to describe it.
I bought some new plugs, going to check if they have spark. If not I have no idea what to check and how.
M
MLow
Guest
And it has big fat blue spark now. Note to self, if your going to hook up the kill switch, use it properly.
Got most of the bolt's I needed, and the tank is mounted properly. Going to change the oil, wait for the carbs/exhaust. Waiting game till I try to get fire contained in her.
On the topic of the clutch, maybe some kind of oil additive available? Just for this purpose? Rinse it out with straight oil afterwards or something. I'm grasping at straws here.
Got most of the bolt's I needed, and the tank is mounted properly. Going to change the oil, wait for the carbs/exhaust. Waiting game till I try to get fire contained in her.
On the topic of the clutch, maybe some kind of oil additive available? Just for this purpose? Rinse it out with straight oil afterwards or something. I'm grasping at straws here.
G
Guest
Guest
Excellent news on the spark! Always good when something so simple fixes it 
As for the clutch, don't worry about it.
Having sat for so long it is likely gummed up too much to release properly etc., so the best thing to do is wait until she's running.
When the engine has some heat in it, that's when you can try slipping it into gear and seeing if you can break it free.
Just take care that the clutch cable is good so it doesn't lurch away from you and end in disaster...
As for the clutch, don't worry about it.
Having sat for so long it is likely gummed up too much to release properly etc., so the best thing to do is wait until she's running.
When the engine has some heat in it, that's when you can try slipping it into gear and seeing if you can break it free.
Just take care that the clutch cable is good so it doesn't lurch away from you and end in disaster...
M
MLow
Guest
I would think that it would stall when I go from neutral to first, even with the clutch pulled in, cause it's so sticky.
Are you saying I do that a bunch? Or are you saying that by the engine running the oil near the clutch will get hot and eventually let loose?
Are you saying I do that a bunch? Or are you saying that by the engine running the oil near the clutch will get hot and eventually let loose?
M
MLow
Guest
Ok so ran into another snag, exhaust I bought doesn't fit...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400386319240?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Auction says gs450, but also says it's from a gs450lx, which I should have looked into better. As apparently the gs450lx has the mount tabs on the exhaust on the bottom. Where as the gs450e is on the top, at least I think so.
Took some pictures to demonstrate. I just have the exhaust sitting on top a jug right now, finger tightened into the engine.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gqz4oiy8j918fjr/9LV8aPi4Yu
So I'm wondering what I can do to make the best of this situation. Make a bracket out of steel strips? The kickstand and center stand appear to clear just fine, just that the mounting tab is on the opposite side of the muffler.
There doesn't really seem to be a clean solution, so I'm not sure what is best to do.
In other news, carbs also came in the mail and I cleaned them as best I could, they were gross. Then tried for like 20 minutes to push them into the intake, oh lord it took a lot of effort. In the end I lubed the intake rubber up with oil and they popped right in.
There's 3 hoses, 1 of which I know is the vacuum line for the fuel valve. The other 2 come off identical places on the carbs, and I think they are bowl overflow drain tubes. Not sure though.
Just need to figure out the situation with the exhaust, change the oil...and I'm ready to test start it. I feel really good about it running as I made sure the passages and jets were spotless in the carbs, good spark, sounds like good compression.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400386319240?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Auction says gs450, but also says it's from a gs450lx, which I should have looked into better. As apparently the gs450lx has the mount tabs on the exhaust on the bottom. Where as the gs450e is on the top, at least I think so.
Took some pictures to demonstrate. I just have the exhaust sitting on top a jug right now, finger tightened into the engine.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gqz4oiy8j918fjr/9LV8aPi4Yu
So I'm wondering what I can do to make the best of this situation. Make a bracket out of steel strips? The kickstand and center stand appear to clear just fine, just that the mounting tab is on the opposite side of the muffler.
There doesn't really seem to be a clean solution, so I'm not sure what is best to do.
In other news, carbs also came in the mail and I cleaned them as best I could, they were gross. Then tried for like 20 minutes to push them into the intake, oh lord it took a lot of effort. In the end I lubed the intake rubber up with oil and they popped right in.
There's 3 hoses, 1 of which I know is the vacuum line for the fuel valve. The other 2 come off identical places on the carbs, and I think they are bowl overflow drain tubes. Not sure though.
Just need to figure out the situation with the exhaust, change the oil...and I'm ready to test start it. I feel really good about it running as I made sure the passages and jets were spotless in the carbs, good spark, sounds like good compression.
J
jeffasaurus2
Guest
For a temporary solution I'd do the steel strips just to get those mounted. In the long run though you may look into something else.... With mine I run the stock headers and some aftermarket short reverse cones, sounds awesome!
The two hoses coming off of the bottom/back side of the carbs? Those would be drain hoses. You've also got the fuel Tee inlet in between the two carbs.
The two hoses coming off of the bottom/back side of the carbs? Those would be drain hoses. You've also got the fuel Tee inlet in between the two carbs.
M
MLow
Guest
Yeah I've got the T hooked up, just wasnt sure about the other hoses thanks.
Really kinda a bummer about the exhaust.
