1981 GS1000G - cleanup

[Guest]

Bike looks good Keep ut the good job.

 

[Guest]

Bike looks good  Keep ut the good job.

My wife is getting annoyed with the expenses for the bike. But there is still some things I need to make right.

Apparently the ohlin suspension can get service and be made to look like new. So that I need to do (prolly looking at 3000+) and then a new seat (2000 + vat) and a bunch of bolts and screws and stuff (not really expensive).

And before the season is over I need two new tyres xD

 

[GSXR7ED]

Love your bike! Thanks for sharing the personal feelings about your bike.

Lots to do and the funding for these bikes can be a pain...especially when your wife doesn't like you spending money on a bike. (My wife wants me to be rid of my bike(s))

I have over $2K invested in my bike...probably more in carb rebuild and spare parts I can't seem to get enough of...lol.

It's your secret to have the amount you spend on her...you're not cheating ...just preparing her for those rides to enjoy on your own.

Ed

****

 

[Guest]

Love your bike! Thanks for sharing the personal feelings about your bike.

Lots to do and the funding for these bikes can be a pain...especially when your wife doesn't like you spending money on a bike. (My wife wants me to be rid of my bike(s))

I have over $2K invested in my bike...probably more in carb rebuild and spare parts I can't seem to get enough of...lol.

It's your secret to have the amount you spend on her...you're not cheating ...just preparing her for those rides to enjoy on your own.

Ed

****

Having this bike has its ups and downs. I have great memories, and great rides, and lots of frustration. Sometimes I wonder if I bought a basket case that Ill never get right. I get frustrated when I mess something up, or think I do (the oil fitler cover studs must have been broken before I changed the first filter, no idea how it held oil before I first changed it). Its great to ride, its comfortable, and has plenty of power. I also have reasonable fuel consumption.

Luckily I have a good reason to ride lots, I can go to college and get certified as a motorcycle teacher. Its a lot of money in teaching people to ride (a licence costs like $2000-3000 not including fees to the government, you can have two and three students for parts of their training, Ive seen some schools offering a $10 000 hiring bonus for a motorcycle teacher). I will start my own school sometime next year (I lack the education to run my own school, halfway done though), then I can expense motorcycle trips and equipment (within reason). But I want to ride more to have more experiences to share. My main motivation to start teaching riding too is that some of the teachers in town teach bad things and milk the students for money, while they just sit at the track smoking and drinking coffee.

She asked if I can get back what I spent on the bike if I sell it. I answered I could probably get about $1000 more than I bought it for, but thats less than I put in it. And the price difference is mostly because bikes are cheap in the winter.

Things like stopping the oil leak, new tyre, brake rotor and pads are safety issues. Ive also spent some money on CE AAA rated pants and jacket, also for communication in the helmet so I won't have to stop and pull my gloves off for every call (might still stop though, but could keep helmet and gloves on.

Some tiny things the previous owners has done just *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ me off, like one of the side covers using some random gew insted of the rubber pieces: https://imgur.com/a/j5y2SmY <- Look at that mess. But its so pleasing to put new rubber bits on and have it be nice and clean like I want it.

I really hope I can get this bike sorted and that it will be a companion for a long time. But she is a neglected lady. But some time and love, hopefully Ill get her back to her glory days.

I also love the attention, the people that recognize what bike it is loves it. And the people who doesn't, thinks its a mid 90s bike. At least if they see the front.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Minor maintenance such as oil change or spark plug changes are easy if you’re somewhat familiar with car maintenance.

i had 3yrs of vocational auto mechanics in High School so being familiar with oil filter & oil plug location is a given no matter the type of motor vehicle. Messing that up takes a lot of negligence which if you’re safety oriented, you will be cautious of.

Now, doing a master cylinder rebuild & braided line install is a step above that. Fork seals/rebuild is another challenge that can be tough...as can a cam chain tensioner and 530 conversion.

Lots to do but a self satisfaction once completed.

Good luck!

Ed

****

 

[Guest]

The original mirrors are hopeless when going fast. But they look good.

New tyre feels different. Rear brakes didnt dragfg when I pulled it out of the garage. Didnt really brake well in the beginning.

Was a drop of oil ubder the oil filter, but I think that might just be from the first time when the oring got misplaced. Will pay attention to it.

Tried polishing the clutch cover with the nylon sheet. It did not work well.

 

[Guest]

Rode home (about 35 kilometers). The rear brake works, seems to be less draggy than before. It seems like neither the oil plug or the oil filter cover leaks now. The tyre didn't fall of the bike, and neither did I. All in all I think this has been a success.

Think Im good for 300 kilometers of riding tomorrow.

 

[Guest]

Today I replaced the generator cover screws with ikea bolts. It is leaking a bit towars the bottom, so I was hoping wrong screws or wrong torque was the root of the issue. Its also a good visual improvement over the last screws and non-shiny ikea-bolts.

Before:

Notice the drop of oil, the rusty slightly damaged screws and the ugly ikea-bolts.

After:

Looks much cleaner with the stainless ikea bolts. I torqued them to spec (I think, used the same torque as oil filter cover ones, same size so prolly correct, used the lower end of the range). It was sort of a pain to find out where the different ones went (replaced them one by one), because some of the old ones had the wrong sizes. Or maybe my kit has the wrong sizes? I found holes that fitted every bolt though. Eventually. I think some of the old ones were too short, and some were rusty on the inside. In retrospect maybe I should have cleaned that out better...

Only one screw was hard to remove, but the JIS screwdrivers has the thing on the end where you can put your ratchet, that got it free. Good because I lack impact drivers.

After with the rusty engine guard:

I wonder if the engine guard can be refurbished or if I need to replace it completely. I also want those triangle brackets replaced with stainless steel ones.

My next big project will be the cam chain tensioner, I have new ikea bolts to attach it, I have some seals and rubber things, and a new spring and a new rod thing. Hopefully replacing the things will make my cam chain less rattly and make it stop leaking oil.

I also think I need to do something with the exhaust, I am hoping I can sand/polish off the rust and put some sort of clearcoat on it.

The other side also needs to be upgraded to ikea bolts, but I figured Id test this side. If it doesn't leak worse than before I will do the other side.

I ordered ikea bolts from the same people for the carbeurator. It is for the tops and the float bowls. Some of the screws are pretty stripped, so I think its a good idea.

I need ikea bolts for the switch things on the right, one of the screws there is pretty bad.

 

[Big T]

There's lots of ways to clean up chrome. OOOO steel wool with some dish detergent works well. There are chemical products to remove rust. There is actual chrome polish, like Simichrome.

Someone plated those engine mounts (triangles). Just scuff them up and prime and paint them black

Just do the same with your exhaust, no clear coat will stay on it, due to high temps. You can paint it black with exhaust paint, don't expect it to last more than a few years.

Ikea bolts - never heard that term, but you are their neighbor. Technically, socket head bolts, here in the States we call them Allen Heads

 

[Guest]

There's lots of ways to clean up chrome. OOOO steel wool with some dish detergent works well. There are chemical products to remove rust. There is actual chrome polish, like Simichrome.

Someone plated those engine mounts (triangles). Just scuff them up and prime and paint them black

Just do the same with your exhaust, no clear coat will stay on it, due to high temps. You can paint it black with exhaust paint, don't expect it to last more than a few years.

Ikea bolts - never heard that term, but you are their neighbor. Technically, socket head bolts, here in the States we call them Allen Heads

I don't think steel wool comes in grades here, altho I will take a look. The car store has a magical rust remover, people use it for boat stuff with chrome. I have chrome polish somewhere.

Painting them black, now after you said it, sounds like an obvious solution. Why didn't I think of that? Thank you, that is a cheap, no hassle solution to the problem.

Are you saying the exhaust or the paint would fail? I want to replace the exhaust with a 2-1 system. But not until next season (first season is always riskier). Repainting it occationally wouldn't be a problem.

I guess they have proper names, but they are always going to be ikea bolts to me. Ikea is what introduced me to them, and all my little wrenches for them are from ikea.

 

[2BRacing]

The original mirrors are hopeless when going fast. But they look good.......

You need part number 4 (rubber vibration dampers) in this diagram.

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40340f8700230d8b4ea3b/handlebar

 

[Guest]

You need part number 4 (rubber vibration dampers) in this diagram.

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40340f8700230d8b4ea3b/handlebar

Do I need 5 (nut) too? But that makes sense, these mirrors got blurry at fairly low rpm.

 

[2BRacing]

Do I need 5 (nut) too? But that makes sense, these mirrors got blurry at fairly low rpm.

Yes, you need part 5 (nut) also. The vibration damper mounts onto the perch where your mirrors are mounted now and is held tight with the nut. The mirror mounts into the vibration damper and is held tight with the "cone" shaped nut.

 

[Guest]

Yes, you need part 5 (nut) also. The vibration damper mounts onto the perch where your mirrors are mounted now and is held tight with the nut. The mirror mounts into the vibration damper and is held tight with the "cone" shaped nut.

Thank you. I would have never figured that out myself. God I love this forum. So cool you have the same year bike as me, I'm considering getting a 850 too eventually maybe.

Now I am excited, I think I have all the knowhow to make this side respectable looking again. When the winter comes I will take the covers off, and polish them shiny and maybe clearcoat them. And refurbish the emblem (not sure how to make sure I dont paint the area around the emblem). But it seems pretty straightforward, mask the area around, spray paint the emblem, sand off the letters and c's.

 

[Big T]

On the emblem, grow your thumbnail
Sand the black paint smooth, mask the cover, prep, prime and paint.
Check the "dry to the touch" time on the can. Once you reach that time, use your thumbnail to remove the paint on the letters and the circle. Start carefully and don't rush it.
Once you've done that, let the paint fully cure and sand the letters and circle with very fine sand paper on a block or disc

 

[Guest]

I don't think steel wool comes in grades here, altho I will take a look. The car store has a magical rust remover, people use it for boat stuff with chrome. I have chrome polish somewhere.

Painting them black, now after you said it, sounds like an obvious solution. Why didn't I think of that? Thank you, that is a cheap, no hassle solution to the problem.

Are you saying the exhaust or the paint would fail? I want to replace the exhaust with a 2-1 system. But not until next season (first season is always riskier). Repainting it occationally wouldn't be a problem.

I guess they have proper names, but they are always going to be ikea bolts to me. Ikea is what introduced me to them, and all my little wrenches for them are from ikea.

Jernia got that steel wool that Big T is talking about. FOund it on their website.

 

[nvr2old]

Just read through your last page of posts and you were talking about how to re-finish your exhaust. Sanding chrome, no matter what grit, will never hold the paint. Chrome is such a hard surface, it really needs to be sand blasted. It will clean off the rust and prepare your pipes for VHT exhaust paint which will last for years if you prepare it correctly. I used this system for the Yosh pipe on mine and it looks great..9 years..later.

 

[Guest]

Jernia got that steel wool that Big T is talking about. FOund it on their website.

Thank you

Just read through your last page of posts and you were talking about how to re-finish your exhaust. Sanding chrome, no matter what grit, will never hold the paint. Chrome is such a hard surface, it really needs to be sand blasted. It will clean off the rust and prepare your pipes for VHT exhaust paint which will last for years if you prepare it correctly. I used this system for the Yosh pipe on mine and it looks great..9 years..later.

The chrome outer part is OK. Its the middle joints that are rusty and ugly, the parts bellow the bike. The parts on the front is okay too.

Uncertain if I want the whole thing black. But thanks for the advice, Ill consider it.

 

[Guest]

Ordered new brake rotor bolts, every single rubber thing for the secondary and final drive, new cylinder head gasket, new breather gasket, all the rubber for the tach wire. A new shiny round thing. New bolts for the torque arm. New levers. And some various other bits and pieces.

 

[Big T]

Thanks for keeping Suzuki in business!