• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

1981 Kawasaki KZ750 Resurrection

Whack the chisel with the mini sledge...

P1010678 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010679 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010701 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010702 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010704 by nessism, on Flickr



Install the other hose end and pay attention closely to the clocking position. I used non adjustable hose ends but they work out fine. You just need to be careful to stop a little short of fully tight so you can get the clocking right.

P1010688 by nessism, on Flickr

Repeat everything three more times and...
Some heat shrink tubing can be used to cover up where the vinyl coating was removed. Next time...

P1010705 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010706 by nessism, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
Little more progress...

Decided to clean up the stock shocks and use them until I decide what to do long term. Had an epic battle (very steep learning curve) with taking these things apart. The adjustable damping mechanism in particular. Removed the adjuster knob only to then realized the only way to install the detent balls and springs was by first drilling out four pins that hold them in place. Then I couldn't figure out how the damping feature worked; thought it related to rotating a rod down the main shaft, but it's related to pulling the rod up. At any rate, got them sorted. Blasted and gunkoated the springs. Got a few chips during the install process.:mad: Bodies and chrome pieces were really pitted so couldn't get rid of all that. Oh well, they will do for now.

Didn't install the rear brake because the hanger bracket looks like crap (corrosion pitting). Going to ebay a new one. Need a new brake pedal too. Painted the one I have black but want chrome. It's only money...







Click to expand...

Hey Ed

Is the dampening changed by rotating the chrome shock cap?

I'm looking at rebuilding the stock set I got for my GPz

Did you take any pictures?
 
Big T said:
Hey Ed

Is the dampening changed by rotating the chrome shock cap?

I'm looking at rebuilding the stock set I got for my GPz

Did you take any pictures?
Click to expand...


Yup, top collar rotates. They are easy enough to take apart, just don't take the adjuster wheel thingie out of the top eyelet. Sorry, no photos.
 
Thanks for the brake line tutorial!

I just received Suzuki OEM front brake lines (3) for a total cost of $168.00.

It's nice to have the original lines for aesthetics, but for reference purposes, what is the cost savings of making them yourself and how long does it take you to make 3 lines?

Thanks again, Ed!
 
Vmass said:
Thanks for the brake line tutorial!

I just received Suzuki OEM front brake lines (3) for a total cost of $168.00.

It's nice to have the original lines for aesthetics, but for reference purposes, what is the cost savings of making them yourself and how long does it take you to make 3 lines?

Thanks again, Ed!
Click to expand...

Total was $89.61 for everything to make four lines + crush washers.

Given my druthers though, for a restoration like a 1000S, I'd go OEM instead.

The owner at AN Plumbing told me the screw together brake lines have a higher pull off force than the machine crimp type. Not sure if he's BS'ing me or what though. The store is local to me and they will make machine crimp lines for the same price as the bolt together, but after the owners comments, I've always gone bolt together.
 
Lines

Lines

How did you keep the braided hose ends from fuzzing up?
G
 
gmansyz said:
How did you keep the braided hose ends from fuzzing up?
G
Click to expand...

Hi Greg,
The stainless sheath will spread and fuzz up when you prep for the ferrule, but it's no worry. Just need to keep the fray down long enough to get the nut over the end.
 
Your step by step description on how to assemble braided steel lines is the best I have seen!!!

It shows its not some black art that only a few can accomplish in some hidden back room.

Anybody that views your postings should be able to assemble any type of braided steel lines.

The only thing I do different is I use a thin cut-off wheel in a die grinder to cut my hose.
 
Nessism said:
The owner at AN Plumbing told me the screw together brake lines have a higher pull off force than the machine crimp type. Not sure if he's BS'ing me or what though.
Click to expand...

Interestingly, down here the "screw together" brake lines are illegal, apparently because they are not as reliable as the crimped type :-k
 
Simply amazing Ed.:clap::clap:
Another masterpiece in the making.
Kinda makes Jennifer look like a shade tree hack job.
 
Nessism said:
Little more progress...

Didn't install the rear brake because the hanger bracket looks like crap (corrosion pitting). Going to ebay a new one. Need a new brake pedal too. Painted the one I have black but want chrome. It's only money...

Click to expand...


Ed,
A couple of questions about the details shown in this photo. Did you buy new chain adjusters, hardware etc or did you opt to refinish the all the shiny hardware shown here? If you did refinished the hardware what is the process steps you used?

Second question, I have the same Tokico rear brake bracket shown. Any idea what the original color or finish was? Mine has a gold hue by the Tokico name then changes to black

TIA
Steve
 
srsupertrap said:
Ed,
A couple of questions about the details shown in this photo. Did you buy new chain adjusters, hardware etc or did you opt to refinish the all the shiny hardware shown here? If you did refinished the hardware what is the process steps you used?

Second question, I have the same Tokico rear brake bracket shown. Any idea what the original color or finish was? Mine has a gold hue by the Tokico name then changes to black

TIA
Steve
Click to expand...

Hi Steve,

If you go back in this thread to post 175 there are details of how the parts were refinished. Basically, I stripped the old plating, polished the metal, then use a caswell's zinc plating kit to refresh the hardware.

Regarding the caliper hanger, I believe the finish as shown is correct - dark gray. I'm not happy with the amount of pitting in the metal on mine and bought a replacement off ebay, but when it arrived the front side is a lighter color and there is some spotting. Not happy with that one either so staying with the original. Reason I mention this is because I think the anodize fades or something. The 750 and 550 share the same part I believe, but finding a clean one can be a challenge. The guy I bought mine from refunded me, because I asked him specifically about the finish before buying and he said it's clean (which was wrong). At any rate, hope this helps...
 
A little behind on the update...

Cleaned up the harness best I could and re-wrapped it with Elliott Tape EE 201 non adhesive tape. Good stuff. The 201 flavor is the high temp stuff so heat shouldn't be an issue. Non adhesive like the stock harness wrap so the harness doesn't turn into a sticky mess.

Used a combination of Deoxit, Scotchbrite, stainless steel wire brush, and a dremel tool to clean corrosion off the electrical contacts. Pinched closed the female terminals where ever possible.

Bought some new electrical terminals and crimping pliers from Vintage Connection. These things roll over the edges over on the terminals just like the OEM terminals. They seem more secure than the smash flat terminals that are so common these days.

Snuck in a SH-775 R/R under the battery box. Had to make a bracket first but it turned out pretty well.


Elliott Tape EE 201 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010643 by nessism, on Flickr

Crimping tool by nessism, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top