1982 GS1100E - My First (Project) Bike

[rsquire]

Hey GSR members!

I want to start by saying the GSR forums (and search function) have been hugely instrumental in getting this thing back on the road, so THANK YOU all. I am continually amazed at the dedication the members of this forum have for these bikes. I hope I'm posting this in the right forum, please let me know if there is a better option or if I should separate this out.

I bought the GS1100E August of 2022 after it had sat covered in a barn for over 10 years after the PO ran into charging issues. It has 24k on the odometer. It is my first motorcycle and probably the heftiest mechanical project I've taken on -- I was set on an older bike that would be a garage project so I could learn the ins-and-outs of the bike before I could/would start riding it. I started work on it this last April and it is finally "roadworthy" in August. In all, I have only had to tap two bolt holes and use an angle grinder once, so the repairs/upgrades have gone fairly smoothly. I'm hoping to give you all a status update and pick your brain on a few loose ends I still have. Please note: statements I make below are coming from a novice bike owner with his first project, so I have little idea of what 'good' looks or feels like outside of general mechanical knowledge.

The old champ cold starts right up with minimal choke in 90 deg California sunshine. Choke can be removed after a minute or two. All 4 cylinders are firing and bike pulls hard through all gears and RPMs. It rides straight and brakes are grippy. I feel like I'm close to being able to really just ride this thing, but also feeling a little like I'll never get this completely dialed in. I'm hoping you guys can help me with some concerns below.
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Work Performed
4x Carburetor full rebuild - chemical dipped, all new o-rings/seals/filters, set float heights, repaired sticking float valve needles and seats
Carbtune Vacuum Sync’d carbs (after valve adjustment)
New OEM airbox boots
Resealed airbox lid and replaced drain hose
New OEM intake boots
Cleaned fuel tank and removed rust
New fuel petcock
New fuel lines
1983 three spoke wheel upgrade - powder coated black
New wheel bearings - OEM
New Shinko tires with tubeless conversion
Rebuilt front and rear master cylinders, new OEM seals
Replaced front brake light switch
Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
New rotors - EBC pro-lite all around
New pads - EBC all around
Custom fab pad shims (missing from PO, discontinued)
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
530 chain conversion - 114 x-ring chain with 17t/48t sprockets
Countershaft sprocket bearing re-pack and new seal, removed all eroded cover foam
Electrical (charging issue repair) - installed new stator and rectifier/regulator, relocated r/r ground, new cover gasket
Retained original ignition coils, replaced ignition wire and OEM caps/seals
Valves lash adjusted to 0.10mm with new OEM valve cover gasket
Replace 2x o-ring for (cam chain galley area) front head nuts
New valve cover relief hose
Maxum 4 oil with HiFlo filter/gasket
Delkevic 4-into-1 exhaust, stainless header studs upgrade
Tachometer gear rebuilt with new seals
Replaced tachometer and speedometer cables
New Duracell Ultra AGM battery
New fuel tank, seat, and fairings bushings
Stainless steel Allen bolt engine kit
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Questions/Concerns
1) Bike has a slight popping at idle AND heavy popping in deceleration. I know that decel pop can be attributed to an air leak, so I've resealed my exhaust with Permatex muffler seal (nasty stuff, some regret using it/not looking for other options) and no difference noted. Since it's popping during both of these scenarios, would you think it's just an overall rich condition? Pilot jet is stock size (as are all other jets/needles from my observation).

Noteworth carb stuff:

My pilot screw adjustments are as follows (in count of turns away from seated): 2.75, 3.25, 3.00, 2.75 -- I believe I have refinement to do here, but I was excited to get on the road. The mixture screw on number 2 carburetor did not seem to make significant change to idle. I pulled the vacuum hose and didn't see/taste any fuel and the replacement petcock seems to be operating without issue. I adjusted the floats to be a little leaner (23.1 float height, set to the notch listed in the manual) and made sure they maximum drop tabs are set. I revisited the float valve seats and needles and re-re-cleaned and have verified they slide smoothly and none are sticking open. I do have the Delkevic 4-1 exhaust, but I thought this would make the bike run more lean, not richer. Should I look at opening up more air? I've read some exhaust manufacturers used to recommend removing the airbox lid. I have the lid sealed with weather stripping and I have a hose on the drain, as well as reflief/pressure(?) hoses on the carburetor that lead toward the back of the bike.

I'm currently almost through a full tank with Seafoam to clear out cob webs and I haven't noticed any difference.

2) Rolling on throttle, bike is a little jumpy. I’ve taken out slack in chain to spec. If I'm SUPER careful on throttle, I can work it out, but overall it's jumpy -- is this normal?

3) My 82 has a 140mph dash which I believe has to be from the 83 (D) model. How likely is it that the odometer is accurate? Was this part usually retained during these upgrades?

4) Slight climbing idle. Currently showing around 1150 rpm when cold, but climbs to about 1550+ after warm. Proper idle RPM after warm? Believe this could represent an air leak at the intake boots, but I have them cranked down. On this note, the OEM clamps for these boots -- should they normally be 100% clamped (all the way tightened)? Do people grease/seal these boots? It seems I am never 100% confident they are sealed.
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[rsquire]

[No message]

 

[rphillips]

Sorry rsq, can't be much help, but popping just about got to be a fuel related. I'm sure somebody will have some ideas. First Welcome. Also pretty nice looking bike. Wondering if you got any history with the bike? I noticed the silver eng., all the "83"'s should have black eng., not that it matters a lot, just a couple of differences inside the eng. for, I think, mid "82" and earlier.

 

[rsquire]

Hey, thanks for the welcome! The bike is an 1982 (Z) model, but I did acquire some three spoke wheels from the 1983 version and put them on, so maybe that's what looks different to ya.

 

[rphillips]

Just me, not paying attention. I remembered the 140 mph, and just had 83 on my mind. Duuuh sure not "83" color. Still good looking bike

 

[Suzukian]

Sometimes the popping can be a Hydrocarbon back fire caused by an air leak.... This causes unburnt fuel to pop in the exhaust. Check for an air leak with some starting fluid (with the little red straw/tube on it) so you can pinpoint where you spray, look for a rise in rpm's.

 

[Rob S.]

Only God himself knows how many miles are on your bike, and he's not telling. So...completely unknown and virtually unknowable.

Yes, many 4-into-1 manufacturers said, 'no carb mods necessary, just remove the air filter lid.' (Toss it into your garage and never see it again. :loyal

Your friendly 11EZ owner here in the 'Big Apple.'

 

[rsquire]

Suzukian - Looks like I'm going air leak hunting again! Are you suggesting around the exhaust? Wouldn't an airleak before the combustion cause it to run leaner and not pop at idle?

Rob S. - thanks for confirming those instructions, I'll take it around town a bit here with the airbox lid off and see if there's any change in behavior. Appreciate the input fellas.

 

[salty_monk]

A climbing idle and popping would lead me to believe that the pilot circuit is lean….

I had the same on the 1100G with stock jets and a Delkevic 4:1 but I cut adjust it out with the air screw.

welcome to the forum.

 

[Suzukian]

What happens with an air leak is that the gases don't combust properly, and end up popping in the exhaust. Bikes run too lean experience Hydrocarbon backfires all the time.

salty_monk​ is a master at this stuff, follow his recommendation. Looking for leaks never hurts.

 

[slayer61]

I'm with salty monk. Popping indicates a lean condition. Seems to also be indicated by the number of turns out on the mixture screws. A larger pilot jet would get you back into 1-1 1/2 turns out.

Your bike is very cool. Well done on the resto

And, Welcome from Lodi.



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[Rob S.]

Ten years ago I bought my 11EZ for $1500 (after it had been listed for $1900 for a few weeks). In the next couple of years, I guesstimate I put $5k into her (tires, sprockets, chain, valve adjust, brake lines, oil cooler, 140 speedo, pods, exhaust, jetting on a dynomometer and a whole slew of side covers). Plus accident damage (ignition cover, brake lever and pedal, foot pegs and headlight). PLUS, I only did 10% of the labor myself.

You've listed a LOT of parts you changed. Mind if I ask for a ballpark $ figure? :nevreness:

 

[rsquire]

slayer61 Sweet! I lived in Lodi for a year and a half. Fun little town. Have you had one of those La Campana breakfast burritos yet? I need to ride back to Lodi for one.

Rob S. I avoided keeping track of the cost on purpose, haha. I bought the bike for $500. I’ll get the number to you once I free up some brain cells.

salty_monk seems you were right! I went outside and turned the screws out a half turn each and put a plug in the airbox drain hose and the idle pop is almost entirely gone. The decel pop has been heavily reduced, albeit still there. Bike is actually a bit quieter overall and feels better.

Any idea why my screws need so be turned out so far with stock jets? Should I need to increase jet sizes with stock airbox and this exhaust?

 

[Suzukian]

More air flowing needs more gas flowing. I thought you had a lean condition from the beginning. Glad you've got it sorted out.

 

[Grimly]

Rob S. I avoided keeping track of the cost on purpose, haha. I bought the bike for $500. I’ll get the number to you once I free up some brain cells.

Rule of thumb I found twice in the past decade, rehabbing my own heaps.
You'll be lucky to get away without spending a grand on putting a heap back on the road in a safe condition, after it's been laid up for a decade.
Biggest single cost is tyres, then (if you're unlucky, depending on storage conditions) damn near every rubber part on the bike - all those small bits add up mightily.
Rebuilding calipers, new pads and hoses, all bearings (wheels and steering neck), possibly new swingarm bearings/bushes.
Attending to the crap charging system and bringing it into the late 20th Century, never mind the 21st.
Rewiring and re-fusing as needed, upgrading lights all around.
Each time I did it, the cost was spread out over a few months, so I didn't feel it much, but I was mightily surprised at the total, and that's just taking it to a stock condition.

 

[Rob S.]

Rob S. I avoided keeping track of the cost on purpose, haha. I bought the bike for $500. I’ll get the number to you once I free up some brain cells.

I know all about not revealing receipts. When I inherited my cousin's '68 327 (stick shift) Camaro with 100k miles back in 1973, people began advising me against "throwing good money after bad." I've been ignoring them ever since.

(Half a century...YIKES!) :victorious:

 

[rsquire]

Rob S. The exhaust and tires were the most expensive single purchases, I believe at ~$750 and $400 respectively. A real loose number would
be around $2700 not including consumables like fluids, cleaners, grease, etc. It was probably more, but I’d prefer to leave some mystery in this relationship.

 

[rsquire]

Suzukian & salty_monk Got an update for y'all. Took the advice and ordered some Mikuni 47.5s from Jets R Us. Took my calipers to them and they looked legitimate. Put them in today and ran it through the highest idle method with the new jets. Seemed like it settled at these adjustment screw turns: 2.5/3.0/2.5/3.0. Definitely lower than with the previous pilots, but I assumed they'd be a little tighter. At those turns, it seems like I'm getting the exact same popping as before. Popping a bit on choke, popping on decel, and idle is a little rhythmic, but no actual pops.

As an additional note, I did notice a few drops worth of liquid coming out of the drain hose from the air box. I tested my petcock last week and it seemed to be functioning properly (replaced with a new aftermarket petcock a few months ago). Carb [NODE="2"]Forum[/NODE] float/needle/valve seemed a little more sponge-y than the others, so I replaced the need with a clean spare that I had and they all seem to be opening and closing without issue when I examine them off the bike.

I'll get back to it tomorrow and see if turning them out a bit further changes anything. I'm also going to do a thorough exhaust leak test. I tighted down all of the boots around the carbs and airbox, so I can't imagine it's anything there. Started to feel a little defeated about it. Maybe I need to source a stock exhaust for actual testing.

 

[Suzukian]

If you needle valve has removable seats, they could be worn. As far as the fuel petcock, for now, put an in line shut off valve. This will allow you re move the tank, and go through the petcock checking procedures. I don't know if yours is vacuum operated, or just a valve. The shut off valve will prevent gas from pushing past the carbs and possibly contaminate the engine case oil.

 

[rsquire]

Further updates: beginning to feel frustrated.

I adjusted my mixture screws out a bit further (3.5, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5) with these 47.5 pilots and exhaust is STILL popping on deceleration. I hopped on YouTube and watched every video that has an I4 GS with a Delkevic 4-1 and they seem to all have pop on deceleration. Exhaust pops with choke on as well and starting to fear I'm going in the wrong direction. I am going to live with the sound for now and just appreciate the muscle car sound.

Spark plugs: Plugs for Cylinders 2 and 3 were pretty dang black/sooty. Almost dry sooty, so I tightened down the mixture screws about 1/4 turn and ordered new plugs to get a better read. I really need to do an actual 'Plug Chop' soon. 1 and 4 plugs looked good.

Petcock test: I attached some long hoses to my vacuum line and fuel line ports on the petcock and confirmed there is no fuel coming down vacuum line and it is supplying fuel as vacuum is supplied.

Tested compression for the first time since I got the thing running. Warm & WOT - 150, 148, 155, 158. Seems pretty good and making me feel better about the top end of the bike.

Concern:
I checked my oil level today and it was right at the LOW level. I changed the oil 3-4 weeks ago and haven't really ridden that far (wish I kept track of miles), so I'm starting to fear that I'm burning oil. Maybe this has something to do with my exhaust notes/sooty plugs? My airbox drain hose had a very small amount of what my amateur nose thinks is an oil and fuel mixture. Not enough to really drain, but the end was definitely wet and could get it on the rag.

I am now getting in a little over my head, but will try some basic maintenance stuff.

• Thinking I have fuel entering crankcase from overflowing carbs. Petcock tested good, so I am starting to believe I have some faulty float valve seats or needles. Ordered 4 new Mikuni seats and needles and will replace. Floats set to 23.1mm.
• Switching from Maxima 4 oil to Rotella 15W-40 Diesel Conventional (for spiritual reason, I guess)
• Switching from HiFlo filters to OEM if this will help regulate pressure at all
• Cleaning my valve cover 'oil separator,' checking for any plugged ports around here, and replacing the gasket while I'm in there.
• Fixing a small half moon cap oil leak that I found (I believe it's my last/final oil leak) that may have contributed to oil loss, but hard to imagine it's that much oil