1983 GS1100ED Refurb turned Restore ???

[posplayr]

OK Lets make some progress with the Clutch

OK Lets make some progress with the Clutch

First the new oil pump. Locktite that little screw. When the PO creamed the Tach gear some metal got into the old pump so, as to not loose any sleep at night I got a new pump

And new gears installed from Schnitz

A new rubber nubber

And a new clutch inner hub

 

[posplayr]

Painting Phase 2 Update

Painting Phase 2 Update

Ok I did not get as far as I wanted as getting the head and cylinder off and getting all the parts painted was a first priority so I could get the new parts on order.

I did get almost everything remaining that is supposed to be black. All clear coating, inner fender and tool box still remain along with all of the body parts

Wheels took a while; about 1 hour per wheel. If you use a Razer,. you can cut off the tape at the edge so you are not trying to line up the tape, but rather cut it to the edge. Hold the safety razor at an angle and just slice the tape. It makes a nice clean line.

Laugh if you like, but using the painting schedule really helped alot. You can waste a few gallons of paint thinner to just clean out your gun unless you plan it out and minimize how many different loads of paint you have to mix.

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[J_C]

I'm impressed man, I can;t wait to see the finished project in person!

 

[Guest]

Good stuff!!!
So the pistons and valves are stock?
Are you going to get some new rings?
I never saw anyone paint rotors before. Won't this create havoc on the brake pads?

 

[J_C]

Yeah... funny... I was just thinking that.....

 

[posplayr]

I asked this question a while back.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123685

I decided to just paint the whole thing except the mounting flange, and have the machines clean the whole think up. 6 disks are out to this guy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=300224447698&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=020

Pistion look stock and mic out to just under 72 mm. It is all that carbon increasing the compression unless the head was decked......

Ordered all from Bike bandit today including the rear tensioner from APE.


SUZUKI GS1100 / 1150 CAM CHAIN TENSIONER GUIDE
This is the guide in the back of the block that the tensioner pushes against. Racers know that the stock guide is always breaking or the rubber gets torn up by the chain. This new guide is made from space age composites with a very low drag co-efficent. Helps keep cams in time for more power.
TGS1100$59.95


GUIDE,CAM CHAIN
479951-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CAM CHAIN (MODEL D)
1$25.48PendingGUIDE,CAM CHAIN
479978-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CAM CHAIN (MODEL D)
1$20.06PendingGASKET
470115-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CYLINDER HEAD COVER (MODEL D)
4$4.36PendingGASKET,BREATHER
476047-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CYLINDER HEAD COVER (MODEL D)
1$3.74PendingGASKET CYLINDER
475751-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CYLINDER - HEAD
1$70.32Pending
GASKET,CYLINDER
476400-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CYLINDER
1$9.79On OrderCYLINDER O RING
472134-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CYLINDER
4$11.16On OrderRING SET,PISTON
478522-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CRANKSHAFT
4$100.40On OrderPISTON PIN CIRC
4054-001 | Suzuki 1983 GS1100ED CRANKSHAFT
8$6.08On Order

 

[bonanzadave]

Whatcha gonna do with that old inner clutch hub ? That thing looks better than mine.....:-s

 

[Guest]

When you're done practicing on your painting skills I'll bring mine over for a little touch up.
The whole damn thing! :-D

 

[seuadr]

this is gonna look good when you are done, man!

 

[posplayr]

Forks and Antidive

Forks and Antidive

Ok I'm going to do some updates to this link. I am under the gun to get the bike ready for the July Yosemite trip, I'm not sure I will get the GS1100ED ready for the pre-ride, but it is still a possibility mainly depending upon how the paint job goes and how smooth the rest of the assembly is.

Anyway I am going to post a few additions organized as to the work. First the forks.

Here is a picture of most of the parts for the forks staged after cleaning, painting the bottom tubes and polishing the main fork tubes. New parts included in the picture are:

Progressive springs
Racetech Cartridge emulators
New OEM teflon parts (upper and lower)
New poil seal and dust covers
New O-rings
Fabricated Block off plates for the Antidive.
The damper rods have been drilled
Anti dive units have all of the parts removed

Here is a close up of the cleaned antidive parts with home made block off plates and gaskets. These parts keep teh fork oil in the fork and out of the anti dive units. I still need to block off the banjo brake lines.

I plann on blocking off the banjos that feed the anti dive units at teh caliper. That way the ant-dive units, and the lines to them remain dry but ertain teh stock look externally. I used a dremel tool, routed out the hole in teh banjo and filled it wit hJB weld, let it dry and then coated with some Por-15 Hardnose paint which is resistant to chemicals. With where this blocked teh brake pressure is trying to push a lump of JB weld through the line toward the Ant-dive unit.

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[posplayr]

Damper Rod assembly

Damper Rod assembly

OK Here are some details of assembly of the forks:

The wave washers go in from underneath the same direction as the damper tube collar.

Then the collar

Here I'm starting assembly after having used a long piece of all thread and clean blue paper towels with WD 40 to ram rod clean all of the fork parts. Notice there are now 4 holes now drilled in the damper rod; I added two.

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Pit Fall to Avoid:

When I removed the damper rod bolts, one of the washers remained stuck up in the bottom of the fork. No problems I'll just keep track of it rather than try and dig it out. I got all the way through the cleaning, sand blasting, painting, with the washer still stuck. However when I used the all thread (with paper towel) as plunger, I can dislodged on top the all thread, but I did not notice until I had re torqued the damper rods and full assembled the shocks On the bike. I though I was going to have to disassemble the whole thing again.

Moral of the story is to remove the washers even if you have to dig them out and then make sure they go in on assembly.

 

[posplayr]

Steering Tube Assembly

Steering Tube Assembly

Here are some staged parts after painting with Por-15 Hardnose Dark Grey paint and detailed black bolts. Those are All-Ball Steering head set with grease seals.

Here is the lower race installed.

Here is the upper

Driving the triple T lower race with a 1 1/4" piece of PVC and using the old race .

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[posplayr]

Steering Tube, Forks Continued

Steering Tube, Forks Continued

Here is what the frame looked like after my best attempts as painting it with a silver Por-15 engine paint and then clear coating. This has bee just about the hardest part of the restoration. Now I know why people powder coat the frame; It is too hard to paint and make it look good. This is passable from what you see when the bike is fully assembled.

And here is the Triple T installed after tightening the bearings down in the steering tube.

Replaced rubber parts in the air system.

Freshly painted and clear coated wheels, new Pirelli Sport Demons (130-90-17 and 100-90-19) with newly painted and resurfaced rotors. New All-Ball wheel bearings

continued.....

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[Jethro]

Wow, you are doing things the way I would for sure. Nice suspension upgrades, it's going to be a whole new bike- literally!

 

[posplayr]

More Bike porn.....

More Bike porn.....

OK here are the forks installed, with the fork brace, wheel on with brake calipers mocked up.

Since the handle bars are on, we know that:

a.) Emulators were dropped in: (left at the factory styreet setting)
b.) Added 15 wt oil and pumped to remove air
c.) Pushed forks up to fulled compressed and measured oil level (stock 7.7 in from the top
d.) Installed springs (with out any cuts or spacers)
e.) Changed o-rings on the upper plungers and installed the upper spring tension adjusters to teh lowers setting .

OK Starting to crank now..... Inner fender wells newly painted flat black.

I got a spare GS1100ED frame from Rapid Ray so it help considerably to sort out how to put the tail back on. All bolts were cleaned and rubber parts treated whether new or not (not everything was new as some parts off teh old were in very good condition).

Swing arm and rear brake level installed.

continued.....

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[posplayr]

Here is the completed rear tail section (without the body parts).

Despite a little initial fear I would scratch them, I could not hold myself back from installing the "functional art".

This is where I was as of Sunday nite, notice the wiring harness is also draped on the frame.

Rear Wheel Installed with hanging rear caliper

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[posplayr]

Brakes

Brakes

OK I started to do final assembly on the brakes. To start off with all parts were originally stripepd down and sand blasted, cleaned touroughly and then acid etched , taped off and painted with Por-15 Hard nose Dark grey.

Parts are staged with the newly refurbished disk rotors. There are two sets there. The black ones will go on to the GS750EX (later). I'm also going to try the Harbor Freight Brake bleeder.

Starting final assembly on the front calipers.

Continued.......
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[posplayr]

Brakes II

Brakes II

Here are the completely assembled frnt calipers but without the pads;

What No pads.....

Yea because I got the wrong parts shipped and I only just realized this. Apparently the sintered Ferado pads are discontinued. I'm now getting teh Platnium all the way around. (I hope) FDB 217ST was the right number for the front.

OK Well at least I got the rear pads right (in Platnium) and they are mounted.

Posplayr

 

[rapidray]

Hey Jim, I couldn't help but notice the Tecate can in one of your pictures! When it comes to assembling, brakes & beer DON'T match! LOL!! It is all looking nice! Ray.

 

[posplayr]

Finished Clutch Hub

Finished Clutch Hub

I previously posted pictures of the inner hub, but never finished . Here is the plates and fibers install (PO had put in new fibers and the plates were cleaned and put back in swapping out a couple from another set that looked better.

Added the larger APE clutch nut showing the smaller OEM nut in my hand.

With alternating OEM and Barrett (sp?) Springs