1983 Suzuki GS1100ED --- "Big Boy"

[Tech73]

Yea, I know about the ground but I was talking more in the area of the starter, stator ect...stuff like that. I hope you find it.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I would try moving the battery ground from the crankcase to a frame bolt if it will reach.

It should be able to reach.

Yea, I know about the ground but I was talking more in the area of the starter, stator ect...stuff like that. I hope you find it.

Gotcha! I'll try that as well.

Thanks for the help guys! Now I head back into the garage.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

OK...

I have moved the battery's ground from the engine to the frame. Still the same.

Tried disconnecting and reconnecting parts and nothing.

Took off the clutch cover in an attempt to get my lights back on. NOTHING!

I have checked all of the surrounding wires and those are good. Sealed, intact, not loose, not touching anything, not kinked...

How do the **** does this bike work?

 

[Curly]

You could double check that oil pressure switch is working correctly, there should be very little resistance between the threaded body and terminal on top. When it sees pressure, it disconnects the ground.

Try disconnecting the pickups and see if the lights work, sounds like a short somewhere in there. You can do this at the CDI box, you should still have dash lights and tail lights. Lemme check....yup should still have lights. You're disconnecting the smaller blue/green/yellow/black connector.


P.S. It doesn't help, since I doubt the wiring in the back is the issue, but that brown wire is your tail light, just checked on mine. So in the future, that's the one that should have 12v without having to touch the brakes.

 

[windcrow]

Curly is right on the oil pressure switch. The idiot light on the dash for that switch is actually wired live on the positive side and switched on the neg. side (i.e. pressure switch). However, on that engine (82-83 yrs.) right next to the pressure switch there is a sending unit for the temperature gauge(should be). 80-81 yrs. don't. The wiring for these should run under the starter cover, around the starter, and under the sprocket cover, alongside the stator wires and hot wire for the starter. Check for chafing/grounding out along that path. If the wires are routed above the starter cover and chafing against the clutch cable(or bottom of carbs) that might have been your short and you disturbed the scenario when you pulled the clutch cover. Also, the sending unit(s) for the gear selection indicator and neutral light are under the sprocket cover. Below your clutch cover run the wires for the ignition pick-ups. Are those chafing? I really don't think so, as you wouldn't have a running engine if they did. If all this checks out OK then you might have to look into the gauge cluster. Just thought of one more thing. Check the whole path of the clutch cable, that it isn't binding against the wiring harness in any way. (The cable should also have (as much as possible) no sharp bends in its' path, for a light pull.
Hope this isn't Too Much Information--I've been thru 6 of these wonderful machines(still have almost 4 of them) and all of their P.O.'s uck-fups
Good Luck I think yer almost there.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

windcrow, thank you! It makes so much sense. I will need to check...

 

[Curly]

I'd start with the pickups, easy to unplug, and they're the most likely candidate for causing your clutch cover issues, they're wrapped around 1/2 the cover (bottom and back).

 

[Guest]

Just had a thought...

You say engine is connected to battery negative... then you moved it to the frame.

Is there a ground wire joining the engine to the frame?

Try both the frame and the engine connected directly to battery negative or at least a good connection between the engine and the frame.

Maybe the engine bolts aren't actually grounding it to the frame good enough?

I'm thinking along these lines because my 450 has quite a thick wire from the engine to battery negative in addition to the electric's tray ground going to battery negative. At least I think that's how it was stock... either way it's all grounded now...

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I'd start with the pickups, easy to unplug, and they're the most likely candidate for causing your clutch cover issues, they're wrapped around 1/2 the cover (bottom and back).

Yeah, those are only two wires; one blue and one green.

Pete, the bike has only one battery ground. Right now, it's connected to the frame. Should I make another wire so that it will ground to the frame AND the engine?

 

[Guest]

Yes, make 100% sure the engine and frame have a 100% good connection to battery negative.

 

[Baatfam]

Yeah, those are only two wires; one blue and one green.

Pete, the bike has only one battery ground. Right now, it's connected to the frame. Should I make another wire so that it will ground to the frame AND the engine?

I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

And don't bolt the frame ground to those rubber w/metal sleeved battery box mounts...don't trust 'em...go to a good solid bolt on the frame...and clean it first.

I can take a picture when I get home if you need one...

 

[7981GS]

I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

That's the only way to do it right.
You can even add one from the tail lights to the frame to be perfect.

Daniel

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

And don't bolt the frame ground to those rubber w/metal sleeved battery box mounts...don't trust 'em...go to a good solid bolt on the frame...and clean it first.

I can take a picture when I get home if you need one...

Mmmm hmmm......

So on my negative battery terminal, I have a ground from the R/R, a ground from the main wiring harness (???), starter solenoid ground (if I remove that, the bike won't turn over), and a big ground to the frame.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I got the lights working again. :dancing:

But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

With the bike running with no choke (900 RPM) it will die sometimes but idle is rough. Only runs on choke!

I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem? I will post a video later today.

 

[Adler]

I got the lights working again. :dancing:

But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem?

Try measuring the voltage at the coils when it is running like that.

 

[cal_look_zero]

I got the lights working again. :dancing:

But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

With the bike running with no choke (900 RPM) it will die sometimes but idle is rough. Only runs on choke!

I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem? I will post a video later today.

Look up. It's that damned cloud again.

Remembering back to my 69 vw bug and all the electrical nightmares I had, one of the first things I did to my GS was to cut out every single last stock wire connector and replace all of them. I found a deal on 50 pair of insulated bullet terminals for $4.69. I still had issues after I replaced the R/R, so I ganked out the stock fuse assembly and replaced those as well. My fuse block and connectors for that were another $30, and a dedicated crimping tool for $8. I think that $43 saved me a lot of headaches and problems.

Do you have a decent multimeter? I think that's a necessary investment based on all the issues you have. I use mine so much; continuity, diode test, voltage, Ohm load, temperatures, etc.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Try measuring the voltage at the coils when it is running like that.

I'll try. But then again, I'm getting my Dyna coils tomorrow! :dancing:

Look up. It's that damned cloud again.

Remembering back to my 69 vw bug and all the electrical nightmares I had, one of the first things I did to my GS was to cut out every single last stock wire connector and replace all of them. I found a deal on 50 pair of insulated bullet terminals for $4.69. I still had issues after I replaced the R/R, so I ganked out the stock fuse assembly and replaced those as well. My fuse block and connectors for that were another $30, and a dedicated crimping tool for $8. I think that $43 saved me a lot of headaches and problems.

Do you have a decent multimeter? I think that's a necessary investment based on all the issues you have. I use mine so much; continuity, diode test, voltage, Ohm load, temperatures, etc.

The damn cloud....

I actually have a bunch of bullet connectors, both male and female 14-16 gauge, but I do not have a crimper.

I used to have a Fluke meter but I lost that (IT'S ****IN' YELLOW!) so I have replaced it with some cheapo meter. Seems to work OK but may not be accurate.

I think my timing is off... Like the coils are firing at the wrong time. Possible???

 

[Guest]

Tanks not rusty is it?

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Tanks not rusty is it?

Tank is completely clean with no rust at all!

Here's some videos.

My lights working.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IynUDAiO3A

WATCH THIS! Rough idle, dies on throttle....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQQ1_sUNuoI

 

[Guest]

I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

I'll second this as "the proper way to do it". No point in doing other troubleshooting before sorting the grounds out...