1984 GS1150ef rebuild!!! renew!!

[wyly]

.... brain fart on my part. I forgot that those carriers hold all of that. I have seen them substantially cut down.

The shift side I could shorten considerably as the new headers are on the brake side. Doing a tidy job of cutting and shaping the hangers so that they look good is my worry.

I don't know what material they're made of, will a Dremel handle the finer cutting and grinding? There's 3-4 lbs of weight savings to be had if I can do it.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

After all the unbolting is done, the creative work begins.
Look at replacing steel parts with alloy, cutting and shaping overbuilt parts so they look good.
Be sure you don't weaken stressed parts.
Start big and work down to smalls.
Be sure you have all the engineering correct for your final purpose.
Look up pics and info on period race bikes.

I kinda have the same direction for my 82 GS1100G, but feel bad about cutting some parts. Plus more power might strip the rear hub.

 

[dorkburger]

The shift side I could shorten considerably as the new headers are on the brake side. Doing a tidy job of cutting and shaping the hangers so that they look good is my worry.

I don't know what material they're made of, will a Dremel handle the finer cutting and grinding? There's 3-4 lbs of weight savings to be had if I can do it.

They are aluminum. Not sure if a Dremel would do it, and if it could it would probably be tough to get straight lines. Occasionally I’ve sat in the garage pondering cutting them down.
It would also be lovely to be able to find aluminum shift / brake levers from a newer machine that could bolt on, plus I thought that years ago I saw a later GSX with an aluminum sidestand.

 

[wyly]

After all the unbolting is done, the creative work begins.
Look at replacing steel parts with alloy, cutting and shaping overbuilt parts so they look good.
Be sure you don't weaken stressed parts.
Start big and work down to smalls.
Be sure you have all the engineering correct for your final purpose.
Look up pics and info on period race bikes.

I kinda have the same direction for my 82 GS1100G, but feel bad about cutting some parts. Plus more power might strip the rear hub.

that's the plan, I'm doing it slowly I expect it'll take a few winters. I stare at things for hours wondering what I can remove and what I can't. Where I can save weight and any costs involved.

This winter's goals-I've already lowered the dry weight to approximately 480lbs, (460-470lbs is easily attainable). Still need to add a HD clutch basket and new set of Mikuni RS36 to complement the Hindle 4-2-1 exhaust. So a significant amount of weight lost(improved power/weight ratio) and hopefully 15-20 hp gained. Better brakes and suspension are next winters goals.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Something I noticed on my carb racks, the racks are made of steel, would be easy to make new racks from aluminum.
Tiny weight savings, but something.
Also, I found some black 6mm nylon bolts on ebay to replace most of the fairing bolts on my GSX750F track bike, another small weight savings.

 

[Carter Turk]

Wyly,

I was assuming a stock 16" wheel would "not" be used with the bother purchasing more modern USD forks.

 

[wyly]

Wyly,

I was assuming a stock 16" wheel would "not" be used with the bother purchasing more modern USD forks.

definitely not, not a lot of tire selection with 16's. My mechanic suggested 18's would be his choice but 17's will do and are easier to find. With shorter forks and even a 17" tire I may end up with a smaller rake where as I want the opposite. So as long a fork as possible, 93-95 GSXR1100w forks or stay with the oem forks I have, modify them and add a 17' wheel. My mechanic says an inverted fork system is superior but modified oems will perform well.

I did find the complete front end from a 2002 750 Gixxer, bars, triples, forks, brakes and tire for $500 but the forks were much too short. It's a waiting game acquiring the right parts at a reasonable price, do I wait or do I modify what I have?

I just know that if I modify my forks the week after I've completed it I'll walk into my favorite wrecker shop and they have exactly what I was looking for for $300.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

I think you should include the Bandit & SV families in your fork swap options.

 

[Carter Turk]

I've been warned not to go with shorter forks a shorter fork with the 16' wheel I have could make for some very twitchy handling. I have a mechanic/technical advisor who is a suspension and tuner expert who works the WorldSBK circuit.

My last post to the thread was based on your comment from this #19 post.
I'll stop making any suggestions, as I've never done the swap, but always wanted to, there's still time, have 2 specimens, just sharing other successful swap choices people have made over the last 20 years.
I can't stand the way my stock 1150ES handles, it's a boinger, even with a Works remote reservoir shock, Progressive springs up front w/spacer & anti-dive block off plates.

 

[wyly]

Something I noticed on my carb racks, the racks are made of steel, would be easy to make new racks from aluminum.
Tiny weight savings, but something.
Also, I found some black 6mm nylon bolts on ebay to replace most of the fairing bolts on my GSX750F track bike, another small weight savings.

Or eliminate the fairing altogether! I have spare headlight and bucket to go fully naked (another 8lb loss too)if I want but there is a certain comfort in having a fairing to tuck in behind.

I was reminded by a young millennial I could spend a lot of cash to lose a few ounces here and there or I could diet and shed 20lbs. There's a lot of truth in that but it's just not as much fun doing it that way.

 

[wyly]

I think you should include the Bandit & SV families in your fork swap options.

thanks I'll look into those.

 

[wyly]

My last post to the thread was based on your comment from this #19 post.
I'll stop making any suggestions, as I've never done the swap, but always wanted to, there's still time, have 2 specimens, just sharing other successful swap choices people have made over the last 20 years.
I can't stand the way my stock 1150ES handles, it's a boinger, even with a Works remote reservoir shock, Progressive springs up front w/spacer & anti-dive block off plates.

oh hey feel free to make suggestions! Every idea is worth considering.

I'm surprised progressives didn't help you I've had those recommended to me as well.

On my 79 CBX my mechanic advised installing Race Tech emulators and springs. The 79 CBX has a reputation for weak front end with many owners swapping for complete front ends but the Race Tech mods made an amazing improvement with my oem forks.

 

[wyly]

click to enlarge

I hate sewing! Working inside out and backwards!
Not 100% perfect but as good as number of replacement pads I've seen on other Slabbies.

I intend to eventually give this to my son-in-law but it was important I convert it to a solo ride first so he can't take my daughter out riding, mission accomplished.

 

[dorkburger]

Hmmmm. Making it lighter, quicker, and solo only..... Do we not like the S I L?
Kidding, but it is kinda funny. It would be cool to have a father in law that rides.
The solo conversion came out nice.

 

[wyly]

Merry Xmas to ME!!!
Add 4-2-1 Hindles to the mix, instant HP!

 

[Spyder]

Couple things. '93-'95 GSXR's carbs ARE RS-36's If you aren't doing any engine work (i.e. cams, valves) you may be going too big with the 36's. I have a '95 GSXR750W, I can go out and measure my forks for you, for a "real world" "now I know" measurement. I am very absent minded, but I will do my best to remember to do it. The stock wheels, front and rear are 17". To go much wider in the rear, you WILL have to use a modern swingarm. I don't think there are any direct swaps out there. I believe you have to machine the pivot down like a 1/4 inch or so, and change the bearings out. Then I think you will need to do some minor modification for the shock. In addition to that, you have to use a spacer behind your front sprocket. If you have any questions about the '95, or need me to take any other measurements from my bike, just let me know, I will do my best to get back with to you.

 

[chris]

Nice, very nice carbs I used the same setup on my 83 restromod. My engine is internally stock and the carbs were pretty much perfect out of the box. I also used a pingle duel outlet petcock with reserve. The stock gs peacocks can be troublesome. I bet you can't wait till spring.

 

[wyly]

it's been awhile since I've been here, Covid/2020 has absolutely turned my life upside down, the year from hell, lost job(covid) vacations canceled(covid) mrs became deathly sick and now in chemo with all the complications that covid situation adds to it. My project came to absolute halt there were more pressing considerations.

After a time out I've got back to it just to keep my mind in a more positive outlook.

Huge change of direction with my project. Here's a picture of where it's at today I'll fill in some details of what I've done and why later, mostly it comes down to a chat with my mechanic and a buddy who asked me if I wanted to borrow his english wheel.

 

[wyly]

Couple things. '93-'95 GSXR's carbs ARE RS-36's If you aren't doing any engine work (i.e. cams, valves) you may be going too big with the 36's. I have a '95 GSXR750W, I can go out and measure my forks for you, for a "real world" "now I know" measurement. I am very absent minded, but I will do my best to remember to do it. The stock wheels, front and rear are 17". To go much wider in the rear, you WILL have to use a modern swingarm. I don't think there are any direct swaps out there. I believe you have to machine the pivot down like a 1/4 inch or so, and change the bearings out. Then I think you will need to do some minor modification for the shock. In addition to that, you have to use a spacer behind your front sprocket. If you have any questions about the '95, or need me to take any other measurements from my bike, just let me know, I will do my best to get back with to you.

I've been told a 5.5" wheel is possible in the rear, and often the clearance problems stem from the tire and not the wheel. But I'm not there yet so time to research that more.

RS36's worked perfectly, amazing performance increase. Mechanic said I could've run 38's but unless I was going to track days or drag racing (I'd need headwork) to stay with the 36, the Mikuni rep said the same.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

it's been awhile since I've been here, Covid/2020 has absolutely turned my life upside down, the year from hell, lost job(covid) vacations canceled(covid) mrs became deathly sick and now in chemo with all the complications that covid situation adds to it. My project came to absolute halt there were more pressing considerations.

After a time out I've got back to it just to keep my mind in a more positive outlook.

Huge change of direction with my project. Here's a picture of where it's at today I'll fill in some details of what I've done and why later, mostly it comes down to a chat with my mechanic and a buddy who asked me if I wanted to borrow his english wheel.
View attachment 61760

Dang Wyly, to say that you’ve been through quite the rough patch would be a massive understatement. Don’t know if you’re the praying type but you’re definitely on my list, like it or not.

I had wondered what became of this thread.

I absolutely love the polished bare metal w/red accents. Take care.