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79 GS850 - Shooting for cross country reliability on a college budget

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lunchbox88
  • Start date Start date
So, you have a Saddlemen bucket style replacement seat? Your bike is a '79 GS850G? I didn't notice on your frame pictures how the seat mounting was set up. Does it have a side latch/key and hinges or a rear key and hooks at the front? The standard seats are available through e-bay, they show up there and several people will post them in parts section here. You could also post in the Parts Wanted. Looking good so far.:)

On edit: I see you've got the standard "G" latching and hinge system. Shouldn't be too hard to locate one of those seats.

Yes correct its the keyed latch and hinge system. I just didnt know what other bikes use the same size seat and mounting system.
 
1979 -1981 GS850G and GS1000G seats fit your bike.

I'm not sure about your O rings, I have the other type.

Thanks! Steve helped me with the o-rings, the VM carbs use the smaller 32mm intake o-rings.
 
Big Weekend Update (3/13/11)
So this weekend I was able to get alot accomplished on the bike. Turns out that the fuel mixture screw that was broken, was acually broken off flush into the carb :mad: The hole that it is stuck in is super tiny and way back next to the slide, so I devised this method for removing it. I ground down a pick to a smaller sturdier right angle point then used some clippers for leverage. Even with this setup it still took about 15min to work it out.
010-1.jpg


After that I put all new o-rings in the carbs then tackled the intake boot o-rings and boy were they trashed.

(Trashed one)
007-2.jpg

(Replaced)
008.jpg


I re-shimmed the valves where necessary, and installed a new valve cover gasket, then I started to tackle the brakes. Also every set of pads was destroyed but the rears were the worst. The pads were no longer existent and the metal backing plate was worn into. The calipers were cleaned, checked for functionality, and greased. Then new EBC pads where installed on all calipers along with a new rear rotor which was obviously destroyed from pad negligence. Time for more pics.

(How I found the calipers)
021.jpg


(The pads I took out)
024.jpg


(After new pads)
027-1.jpg


While I had the wheel off I cleaned and re-greased the splines on both the wheel and the driving hub. All of the splines looked to be in great shape still :)

Im getting close to safety inspection time so Im getting excited. List of things to finish before I get inspected:
-Bleed all brakes
-Replace fork seals
-Finish blinkers
-Put everything back together
 
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STOP dont order a carb rebuild kit.

The fuel mixture screw can be bought individually. I posted it somewhere on here. If you give me a few days I can head over to the place I ordered mine and get a part # for you. I think it was like $10 or less for each screw. I really should post it in BassCliffs site since I seem to be the only one who's done this.

If you don't have a response from me by Tuesday night, then PM me as I may have forgot. I do have an extra if you use the same as my carbs. Either way they DO make them and sell them individual for our GS's.
 
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STOP dont order a carb rebuild kit.

The fuel mixture screw can be bought individually. I posted it somewhere on here. If you give me a few days I can head over to the place I ordered mine and get a part # for you. I think it was like $10 or less for each screw. I really should post it in BassCliffs site since I seem to be the only one who's done this.

If you don't have a response from me by Tuesday night, then PM me as I may have forgot. I do have an extra if you use the same as my carbs. Either way they DO make them and sell them individual for our GS's.

Sorry Ranger, I already got the kit for the needle. Its alright though because one the gaskets was messed up in one of my carbs so I got to use that as well. I would still like to know the part number though in case I ever need another one, because non of the fiches seem to have it listed.
 
Looking good, however, looking at the picts, I see an inline fuel filter. You might want to lose that thing, it'll more than likely mess up your fuel flow to the carbs.
 
Looking good, however, looking at the picts, I see an inline fuel filter. You might want to lose that thing, it'll more than likely mess up your fuel flow to the carbs.

Yeah the fuel filter is only temporary. When I get the tank clean and and new fuels lines it will be removed.
 
Sorry Ranger, I already got the kit for the needle. Its alright though because one the gaskets was messed up in one of my carbs so I got to use that as well. I would still like to know the part number though in case I ever need another one, because non of the fiches seem to have it listed.

Well if you're not mad then I don't care. Figured you'd need to save the money, I also had extra gaskets heh.

I'll still get the part # for everyone else anyways and post it, lot cheaper than buying a whole kit for one little screw if you don't need to.
 
Been making some progress over the last couple days. Free time is hard to come by during the week but I make sure I get at least 30min of wrench time in a day. Bled the brakes, and you wouldn't believe the brown chunky stuff that came out. The rear was the worst, but from the condition if the pads I expected it. Besides an oil leak at the valve cover which I will deal with tomorrow, the bike should be fairly mechanically sound. Electrically though its a different story. After A little testing I have concluded that the charging circuit is indeed messed up(read: Doesnt work at all). I didnt have time to dive into it any further yet but Im going to read the stator papers again to make sure I do all of the tests right. Also I am currently working with an electrical engineering buddy who just finished making me a turn signal controller. I will post pictures and more details in a day or two. My attention will be almost completely focused on electrical now as I already started replacing the corroded fuse box with a more modern automotive style box. Hopefully I will have a better diagnosis of my electrical system here in few days. Cross your fingers.

Edit:Grammer
 
Sounds like you are making great progress. I have put 25K trouble free miles on my 79GS850. The only thing I would suggest on you trip is to lube the points cam at every oil change
 
I will post a big update maybe tonight or tomorrow but I have a quick question. I beleive my fuel petcock to be letting fuel by while the bike is not running. While I believe this is a common problem, I want to check with you guys before I take action. Should I just get this rebuild kit from z1( http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1508) and repair it myself, or try to find a manual one with reserve that fits if there is such a thing?
 
I've found petcock rebuild kits to be "iffy", sometimes working, sometimes not. If the diaphram is good, then disassembling and cleaning often works.

You're doing good work there, like you've done it before.

Your shim adjustment sounds good, and changing that .04 to .09 per Steve is good advice. An X shim is a little extra big, so that would help on a .04 or .05.

Did you disassemble the rear caliper, or just flush it? They are very prone to dragging, and burning up pads and discs.

If you have the wheels off, I'd put a finger in the bearings and check for looseness.

Can your friend make more of those turn signal controllers? I'm sure there would be people to buy them ;).

A clear windshield and soft bags makes cross country runs much better.

How is the Honda coming?
 
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I've found petcock rebuild kits to be "iffy", sometimes working, sometimes not. If the diaphram is good, then disassembling and cleaning often works.

You're doing good work there, like you've done it before.

Your shim adjustment sounds good, and changing that .04 to .09 per Steve is good advice. An X shim is a little extra big, so that would help on a .04 or .05.

Did you disassemble the rear caliper, or just flush it? They are very prone to dragging, and burning up pads and discs.

If you have the wheels off, I'd put a finger in the bearings and check for looseness.

Can your friend make more of those turn signal controllers? I'm sure there would be people to buy them ;).

A clear windshield and soft bags makes cross country runs much better.

How is the Honda coming?

Thanks for the kind words, and yes I did disassemble the rear caliper to clean and re-grease it. Although I might take it apart again just to double check everything is good to go. I did also check the wheel bearing and they seem good as well. As far as the turn signal controllers, I will post more info in the next update post here in a few minutes.

My roommates CB750 is going fairly well. He did beat me to safety inspection and getting a plate but I wasnt far behind. We went in on a 4 gauge carb synchronizer since we both have to do that and it seem logical. I thought he had it pretty much squared away, but just as I was diagnosing my electical issues, he determined his powered rotor was faulty, so he is going to attempt to rewind it himself.:pray: All and all we seem to be fairly close to the same point in rideability now.
 
Weekend update (3/20/11)
Hey guys just thought I was do a weekend up on my progress. Also I wanted to say thanks to everyone for their kind words and helpful support during this ongoing progress.

What I have mainly been focusing on is the electrical system. After going through the stator papers and doing alot of diagnosis on my charging system I have deemed my r/r busted. I have already ordered a new honda unit from duaneage and Im excited about getting that in. While I was in an electricity mood, I decided to tackle a things this weekend. I started cleaning connections throughout the wiring harness, and Ive been finding alot of burnt connectors, so Ive been replacing them with new bullets along the way. Next while diagnosing the charing problem I found a decent drop across the old fuse box, so taking from what I have seen here I replaced it with a newer automotive style fuse panel. Once that was done it was time to install the new turn signal controller we made. Everything was solid state and easy to do, except we were thinking about its shape when he was soldering it together. We were able to still put it were we wanted but if he ends up making more it would be in a more stacked package. Speaking of that, if there is interest from members in purchasing these units (see video of functionality below), he said could start producing them. He wasnt sure on pricing yet, but depending on interest he could through me a number. Also mine was connected with bullet connectors to the harness but if he actually went into a small production he might be able to do a nice connector.

Getting a little burned out on electrical stuff I moved to sealing the airbox, which did make a noticeable difference in the way the bike ran. It was definitely lean.

I did manage to get to and pass safety inspection, after I had to convince the inspector that my bike didnt have a 17 digit vin number like the newer bikes. Got it plated and legal, and boy did that feel good. I managed to get out this morning for a short ride as kind of a test. Turns out this thing is actually pretty fast :D and really fun. It was a little short lived though as the clutch was obviously slipping when I got into it at higher RPM. Hopefully its just 30 year old springs that are the culprit.

So before I consider it functionally decent there are a couple things I still need. A new seat, a new headlight, and for some reason the numbers in my gear indicator are missing so I need those too.

Now for some pics and a video:

Burnt connectors
018-1.jpg


New fuse panel (wiring was cleaned up later)
020.jpg


Turn signal controller
014-2.jpg


The controller hidden in a rubber sleeve
015-2.jpg


Where the controller sits in the bike
016.jpg



Video of the controllers operation:
http://s667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/Lunchbox_reloaded/gs850/?action=view&current=025-1.mp4


Sealing the airbox:
009-2.jpg

014-1-1.jpg


How the bike sits right now, its not pretty but I havent gotten there yet ;)
018-2.jpg
 
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Also could someone see if this is the correct placement of the kick starter, it feels like it might not be in the right spot.
020-1.jpg
 
Also could someone see if this is the correct placement of the kick starter, it feels like it might not be in the right spot.

Needs to come round a couple of splines - the kickstart should point at around one o'clock and the rubber bit where you put you foot should be pretty much horizontal.
 
The kick starter should be more vertical. At about 12 o'clock, maybe in between 11 and 12 but closer to 12.

That wing nut holding the kick starter on looks interesting. It shouldn't be a wing nut but maybe that was the PO's touch and personality, HA!
 
actually, hampshire you're right. The kick starter shaft starts at about 12 o'clock but it curls forward to about 1 o'clock.
 
Your shift indicator lights are probably just unplugged. Look around on top of the tranny, you'll find a 5 wire plug just laying around, and a matching plug up under your gas tank. The one that's on laying on the tranny goes up between #1 & #2 carbs to hook to the one under the tank. They're easiest to route when you've got the airbox off, but they can be fished up there too.
 
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