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davidduarte
Guest
anybody happen to know how many teeth the stock sprockets have? looks like I'll have to replace my chain soon.
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thevillaindylan
Guest
David, 16 in the front and 45 in the rear, thats what the micro fiche shows. Thats for all '80 EZ,EX,ET models.
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davidduarte
Guest
I think I've only put on about 7000 or so miles on the bike since I put on the new chain, but it appears that I'm close to running out of room to adjust the chain. At least the rear sprocket appears to be in good shape; I haven't pulled off the sprocket cover to see what it looks like. A friend of mine suggested I get a chain breaker and remove a link or 2, that it's possible the chain was too long to begin with. It does have a master link, but the chain was already assembled when I got it. I'm also not sure as to how often I should lube the chain. A mechanic once told me I should lube it after every ride while the chain was still warm (this is not an X/O ring chain). It's also somewhat frustrating as I can't seem to find a happy medium with chain tension. I can either have it at what appears to be the proper tension, but then the wheel won't spin freely, or the chain looks loose as a goose but the wheel will spin freely. I've tried to follow the procedure from my Klymer manual, but I'm still uncertain if I'm doing it right or not.
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koolaid_kid
Guest
1) You should have ~1/2" play in the center of the chain, right between the two sprockets. Any less or more, and you will experience premature wear and possible increased noise from a loose chain.
2) The rear tire spinning freely is an odd test, not sure of its validity.
3) When you go to lube the chain, you should first clean the debris off the chain parts with a kerosene-soaked rag. Not sure I would want to do this on a warm bike. There is a thread on this, do a search in the maintenance section.
4) You need to count the number of links on the chain. It should be 104 links. No more, no less. I have seen people remove a couple links (you have to do it two at a time) to get more life out of their chain. I don't recommend it, but I have seen it done. Keep in mind when you do this, you absolutely must replace those sprockets at the same time.
5) You should always use an O-ring chain. The reason I state this is multi-fold:
a) They last a lot longer, especially on a smaller bike such as yours. Mine currently has 10k miles on it from me, and I have adjusted it twice. It was on the bike when I installed it, so I have no idea how many miles it had on it when I purchased it. It's the GS1100E, which has a bit more pep than a 450.
b) When chains go, you really need to replace the sprockets also, as worn sprockets with a new chain will wear out the chain a lot quicker.
c) Going with a non-oring chain is a false economy, for reasons of frequency of replacement, adjustment frequency, and cost of replacing both chain and sprockets.
2) The rear tire spinning freely is an odd test, not sure of its validity.
3) When you go to lube the chain, you should first clean the debris off the chain parts with a kerosene-soaked rag. Not sure I would want to do this on a warm bike. There is a thread on this, do a search in the maintenance section.
4) You need to count the number of links on the chain. It should be 104 links. No more, no less. I have seen people remove a couple links (you have to do it two at a time) to get more life out of their chain. I don't recommend it, but I have seen it done. Keep in mind when you do this, you absolutely must replace those sprockets at the same time.
5) You should always use an O-ring chain. The reason I state this is multi-fold:
a) They last a lot longer, especially on a smaller bike such as yours. Mine currently has 10k miles on it from me, and I have adjusted it twice. It was on the bike when I installed it, so I have no idea how many miles it had on it when I purchased it. It's the GS1100E, which has a bit more pep than a 450.
b) When chains go, you really need to replace the sprockets also, as worn sprockets with a new chain will wear out the chain a lot quicker.
c) Going with a non-oring chain is a false economy, for reasons of frequency of replacement, adjustment frequency, and cost of replacing both chain and sprockets.
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davidduarte
Guest
Grrr, now I wish I hadn't let myself get talked into buying a non O-ring chain a few years back. Alright, so the question now is, as far as buying new sprockets and an O-ring chain, how much are we talking about? Will the chain still need to have 104 links? My bike is stock, other than the odd fastener or several 
The reason I ask, is looking on Bike Bandit (for example), it's not like there's just one chain and sprocket set just for this bike. I don't know a whole lot about chains, like pitch etc. 
I just want sprockets and a chain that will last and not break the bank.
The reason I ask, is looking on Bike Bandit (for example), it's not like there's just one chain and sprocket set just for this bike. I don't know a whole lot about chains, like pitch etc. I just want sprockets and a chain that will last and not break the bank.
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koolaid_kid
Guest
The 450 uses a 530 chain.
You will still need 104 links. If you decide to go with a master link rather than a riveted link, be sure and pick up a spare master link "just in case".
Prices will vary, so you will want to shop around, perhaps even call Z1Enterprises and see what they recommend.
You don't need anything fancy, any good o-ring chain will do fine.
You will still need 104 links. If you decide to go with a master link rather than a riveted link, be sure and pick up a spare master link "just in case".
Prices will vary, so you will want to shop around, perhaps even call Z1Enterprises and see what they recommend.
You don't need anything fancy, any good o-ring chain will do fine.
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davidduarte
Guest
according to Z1, at least their website anyway, the chain they list for the 450 is 108 links:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=GS450ET-1980-MP0
I obviously don't want one that is too long, and I don't have a chain breaker (not sure that I want to be bothered with one either). If 104 would work, that would be great, especially if down the road it would give me more room to adjust it.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=GS450ET-1980-MP0
I obviously don't want one that is too long, and I don't have a chain breaker (not sure that I want to be bothered with one either). If 104 would work, that would be great, especially if down the road it would give me more room to adjust it.
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davidduarte
Guest
I went out and counted the links on my bike today, and there are indeed 104 (not that I doubted you Koolaid). Now I have to dig through both Z1 and Bike Bandit and see which one can give me a better deal.
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donimo
Guest
just to stir the poo a bit, JC whitney has non-oring chains for $9 right now...
still false economy?
still false economy?
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bgmart450
Guest
I have run a non O-ring for quite a while. Keep 'em clean and lubed, and properly adj they will last quite a while. I am sure an O-ring would last much longer, but the 450 isn't exactly a chain stretcher like the liter bikes. I am not saying non-oring is better. But for my usage (not too many miles a year), they seem to do just fine.
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davidduarte
Guest
will I need spacers for the O-ring chain?
