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82 GS1100E Mr Turbo Rebuild

I bought my son 14 y/o, now 15 (only kid so he's spoiled) the YT carbon frame enduro when it was 20% off. He had a Fuji that I got from Performance Bike when they closed, and he rode the wheels off it. In one year he went from a 5'3" 150 lb slightly pudgy kid to a complete fitness stud, putting in well over 100 miles a week. He grew to 5'10" in about 14 months, and still weighs 150, but is solid muscle. He logs his rides on Strava and has a blast. Altitude gains of 2 to 6K' on a typical 20 to 40 mile ride Best investment ever - he hits all the marks, nature, fitness, friends, and mechanical interest. I ride with him but he's so far beyond me it's pathetic. I can manage about 15 miles and I'm gassed, but happy to be with him and getting some exercise.

Your son is going to love the turbo 1100 👍 You better hide the keys. 🌞
 
I could use some help on a ground wire attachment location. I took a pic of one black wire with white tracer, with the socket on it showing the location. But there is another that you can see part of below it, bottom left corner, same color with round fitting to mount to a screw. It is longer, and I didn't note its location in a pic. it has assumed a curved shape leading me to think it goes to the fuse/relay panel, but if so,to what?

That's what it looks like in the wiring diagram pic below, the green circled one is to the frame, the red perhaps to the screw that mounts the fuse box?

Any help appreciated. Also where the negative battery terminal mounts. I think it's to the battery tray forward mount, or somewhere near there.

66HDPPg.jpg


Objh2iJ.jpg
 
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I'm not an authority on variations between models, but if the 1100 is similar to my 850's, I believe the ground wire with the ring terminal goes to the starter solenoid, one of the solenoid mounting fasteners?

As for the battery neg cable, that should go to the bolt on the top side of the rear portion of the engine, in the center. I believe it's the bolt in the background of your image, peeking through right between the socket and the corner of the battery box.
 
OK thanks, the battery cable to engine bolt registers with some distant memories of GS's past, strangely not this one though! I was thinking solenoid too, will double check because it would seem the diagram would show it there on the diagram to a post on #3 relay.

Update: yes 93Bandit that's the location, thanks. I checked the screw and it was loose, so I must have taken it off. The curve of the wire matches up exactly to that location.

I'm not an authority on variations between models, but if the 1100 is similar to my 850's, I believe the ground wire with the ring terminal goes to the starter solenoid, one of the solenoid mounting fasteners?

As for the battery neg cable, that should go to the bolt on the top side of the rear portion of the engine, in the center. I believe it's the bolt in the background of your image, peeking through right between the socket and the corner of the battery box.
 
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OK thanks, the battery cable to engine bolt registers with some distant memories of GS's past, strangely not this one though! I was thinking solenoid too, will double check because it would seem the diagram would show it there on the diagram to a post on #3 relay.

On my 850, a ground wire goes to the mounting bolt for the solenoid, not to an actual post on the relay, so I don't think that would show on a wiring diagram. I could be wrong though.
 
A little more help needed, this time the center stand. There is a little rubber cushion, about 3/4" round with a tip to insert into a receiving hole 'somewhere'. It's #7 on the diagram. Anyone know where this goes? I'm not seeing where.

Side note - I watched a YouTube video of a guy struggling forever with pennies and washers, trying to fit the spring. I got it on in about a minute, using a long screwdriver. I used the swingarm as leverage, with the screwdriver tip resting on the U of the bottom ahead of the tire, and pulled it on without too much effort. Maybe helpful to someone.

9T5Gzfm.jpg
 
On my 850, the rubber piece is in the bottom of the rear portion of the footpeg frame piece, where the rear exhaust hanger bolts too. It contacts the flat portion of the stand, right above the "foot" of the stand.

It's probably in a similar location on yours, assuming that part of the frame wasn't modified/removed.
 
On my 1100E it goes on a tab welded to the exhaust. A SuperTrapp to be exact.

 
Side note - I watched a YouTube video of a guy struggling forever with pennies and washers, trying to fit the spring. I got it on in about a minute, using a long screwdriver. I used the swingarm as leverage, with the screwdriver tip resting on the U of the bottom ahead of the tire, and pulled it on without too much effort. Maybe helpful to someone.

hee hee. Clearly you’re old school enough to have done that on car drum brakes.
 
Ha, us rich guys used dimes instead of pennies.
Mostly because i wasn't strong enough to bend the spring over far enough to get those thick pennies in. haha.
 
Oh jeez now that makes sense, I should have thought of the exhaust because it's hanging a few feet away. It doesn't really seem needed because it stops short of everything and I suppose it was there to protect the exhaust anyway. Thanks all.
 
Who you calling old? Me? You're damn right! My '54 Willys has drum rears and I just redid those recently. I have never paid for a brake job in my life.


hee hee. Clearly you?re old school enough to have done that on car drum brakes.
 
Good morning,
I was referring to old school technique that young 4 wheel disc guys would not necessarily know.
As far as age, its pretty much a given that most here are of the age that they enjoyed these old bikes when they were new and had functional original stators....
That Willys and Airstream are awesome.
 
My first car had drums all the way around, 1959 Buick Invicta. That was the first thing I had to do to it once it was home. New brake cylinders, flex lines and shoes all the way around.
 
Thanks - didn't take any other way. I think mine actually has a functional original stator but it only got ridden 1 week a year, 2K miles total.


Good morning,
I was referring to old school technique that young 4 wheel disc guys would not necessarily know.
As far as age, its pretty much a given that most here are of the age that they enjoyed these old bikes when they were new and had functional original stators....
That Willys and Airstream are awesome.
 
Update - the Mikuni HSR42 will arrive today, it's been a long wait, it was only 25 miles from me for a week, sort of frustrating but I understand it's low priority.

I got a new Yuasa maintenance free battery and am checking the electrics. There are some minor lighting gremlins to explore, will figure it out. All the check lights don't go on (turn, stop, neutral don't light up) and the gear indicator stays at 0. Turn signals go on and stay on, no flashing, and the tail light goes out when front lever is activated. I believe the turn signals should light up as running lights, can't remember. Hopefully it's just flasher/ground/bulb related, and not some control unit (though I have a spare to try). Horn and headlight work fine, had to clean and adjust the horn.

The engine turns over freely (plugs out) on the button. I had put a capful of oil in each cylinder and tested rotation with a wrench a month ago. It spins with no problem by the starter.

I got the EPM wheels back and primed the rear, ready for top coat but rainy today. I was going to powder coat but the front's magnesium and nobody wants to handle it, can't blame them. I've heard some horror stories. Paint will be fine, and easy to change if I don't like the color. I still have to sand and fill pits on the front.

I put the clutch cable on and I can tell there are some heavy duty springs installed, it's a workout!

Other than that, I'm working on fixing one of the throttle cables, making a new solder end because the curved plastic piece that attaches the cable to the twist grip was broken, and since I have a spare I can fix rather than replace.


I tried a little custom touch, a polished aluminum plate on the oil cooler, jury still out if it stays or goes. What do you think? No offence taken if you tell me it's crap :p. It's just hot glued on to have a look.



EknfeDi.jpg
 
Regarding the lights, it sounds like you may have some grounds not grounding.
I don't recall either whether the front indicators are running lights or not either. The easy tell would be checking if they are single or dual filament bulbs.
 
Agree that's where I'll look first

This morning, planning for Sedona to mountain bike, I tackled the Grand Cherokee wiring on the 7 pin connector. I bought an OEM hitch and 4 pin / 7 pin connector unit, and paid the dealer to program it. I didn't have them prove to me it was working, and later I found out the left signal was not working. I checked the Airstream with a battery source and looked at diagrams, all was correct. I had them check when I took it in for the umpteenth emissions/electronics recall (great vehicle otherwise...) and they told me it wasn't the module/electronics. Dang. So I jumpered from the main signal housing as a patch, and just tested it out OK.



Regarding the lights, it sounds like you may have some grounds not grounding.
I don't recall either whether the front indicators are running lights or not either. The easy tell would be checking if they are single or dual filament bulbs.
 
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Idk how I feel about the polished aluminum on the oil cooler. It seems a little out of place, being next to the black frame. Not awful, but probably not a look I'd be happy with.
 
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