I have the factory shocks on it. I was trying to figure out how to change the settings on them. Seems that I remember there used to be a wrench in the tool kit to adjust them with. There isn't a wrench or the hole to adjust them with. I couldn't find anything in either the owner's or service manual on it. I'm embarrassed to ask but what's the trick?
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'82 GS1100G - Adjusting Shocks
- Thread starter GS1100GZ
- Start date
Most folks just grab the preload adjusting collar with a large set of adjustable pliers. They're junk; any cosmetic damage is irrelevant.
It would be far more productive to save up a few pennies, then "adjust" them into the nearest trash receptacle using a 17mm wrench and order up some Progressive or Hagon replacements.
It would be far more productive to save up a few pennies, then "adjust" them into the nearest trash receptacle using a 17mm wrench and order up some Progressive or Hagon replacements.
I put Progressive front and rear on a CBX and liked the results. I might look into those and Hagons. I just don't know if I am going to keep the bike or not. I do something almost every day that reminds me how old I am. Love the bike but it's heavy.
Gasp! All my feelings are hurt now.....
My S runs perfectly well on the old fashioned old originals (with rebound adjust) I don't really have much of a reputation for lurking about.. I did have a set of Ohlins but I couldn't ride good enough to do them justice and flogged them anyway, plus I thought they're overrated.
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Sure, you'd be able to tell the difference. The question is whether the difference would be worthwhile.
The consensus around here is that Progressive or Hagon shocks are good quality for the money and an enormous improvement over worn-out stock shocks. They're sort of the minimum; the cheaper Chinese shocks sold under several doofy names like MDI or Emgo are not worth bothering with.
Pricing is close, and they can be harder to get, but Hagons do work a little bit better than Progressives, and the difference is noticeable. Still, I have Progressives on my GS, but I've never felt the urge to exchange that much gas and tire money for the small improvement.
And of course, there are better shocks out there, like YSS and any number of high-end brands, and Hagon sells some higher-end options with more adjustability.
Yes, you'd certainly be able to tell the difference, but whether they're worth the stiff price of admission is debatable, especially since you already have some pretty darn good shocks.
And up front, the minimum would be straight-rate springs from Sonic and fresh 10W fork oil. The next step up is cartridge emulators, and some folks add a fork brace.
I have a fork brace, but I didn't like the feel; the fork felt slightly numb, if that makes sense. Maybe after all those years of rapid transit without it, I learned to use the information found in all the flex and twisting.
I think emulators would be a worthwhile upgrade, but I also haven't felt much urgency about it. Some also install modern rotors and calipers, but for my taste, freshly rebuilt stock master cylinder and calipers with stainless lines and EBC red pads work perfectly fine.
With a GS wearing competent suspension and fresh modern tires, the main limitation to high-speed, high lean angle handling is frame and fork flex. More money in suspension can get you some perceptible improvements and maybe even more comfort, but the limits are the same.
Thanks for that update Brian. I already have the sonic straight rate springs up front and right now I am trying to decide if I want to go with the emulators.
I've been doing some reading on them and I've had different people tell me how great they are but I just don't know if I would be likely to notice a HUGE difference.
I also heard lots of the same information about a fork brace so I put on a Tarozzi brace and can't say that it gave me that warm, fuzzy feeling I was hoping for. I removed it and didn't notice much in the way of difference and then put it back on just so it wouldn't accidently get tossed into the garbage can.
I always want to feel or see a night and day difference when I do alterations to the bike.
I would like to hear good advice anyone can pass on before I pull the trigger for the emulators.
Thanks,
I've been doing some reading on them and I've had different people tell me how great they are but I just don't know if I would be likely to notice a HUGE difference.
I also heard lots of the same information about a fork brace so I put on a Tarozzi brace and can't say that it gave me that warm, fuzzy feeling I was hoping for. I removed it and didn't notice much in the way of difference and then put it back on just so it wouldn't accidently get tossed into the garbage can.
I always want to feel or see a night and day difference when I do alterations to the bike.
I would like to hear good advice anyone can pass on before I pull the trigger for the emulators.
Thanks,
You'll notice a night & day difference with the emulators under braking (initial dive) once they are set up right but other than that the change is pretty incremental.
The problem is that humans are pretty adaptable so we tend to compensate for what we're given.....
Oh and I've ridden with Stock, Progressive, IKon, Koni, Hagon, Cheap chinese Emgo, Chinese RFY, Works Performance & Ohlins on GS1000's or GS1100. As Brian says the Emgo style ones are terrible (and grossly oversprung for me), surprising the RFY were ok but apparently it's a lottery with those things) the rest of them were all varying degrees of goodness. I didn't notice much difference with the Ohlins or my works performance over & above Hagon or Ikon/Koni's.
The biggest difference you can make is getting the right spring rate & the right sag settings. The more expensive shocks can be felt but the cost over the Hagon on the GS is not worth it in my opinion.
The problem is that humans are pretty adaptable so we tend to compensate for what we're given.....
Oh and I've ridden with Stock, Progressive, IKon, Koni, Hagon, Cheap chinese Emgo, Chinese RFY, Works Performance & Ohlins on GS1000's or GS1100. As Brian says the Emgo style ones are terrible (and grossly oversprung for me), surprising the RFY were ok but apparently it's a lottery with those things) the rest of them were all varying degrees of goodness. I didn't notice much difference with the Ohlins or my works performance over & above Hagon or Ikon/Koni's.
The biggest difference you can make is getting the right spring rate & the right sag settings. The more expensive shocks can be felt but the cost over the Hagon on the GS is not worth it in my opinion.
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Thanks Dan. I will probably wait until spring if I do buy the emulators. That way I can give the bike a better trial on a certain road that I know has some rough patches in curves that would be possibly eliminated with improved suspension.
My plan is to ride the road enough times before changing and then go back and ride the same road after changing to really tell for sure.
My plan is to ride the road enough times before changing and then go back and ride the same road after changing to really tell for sure.
Oh I should also say that my Works Performance are 1/2" or 3/4" over sized.I like that but it does mean you need a block on the sidestand and of course standover height is raised a little.
I found that front tyre choice makes a bigger noticeable difference to the handling in the bends. The way it turns in & tracks through the bend. I particularly like the Shinko 712's (more so than the Avon Roadrider much as it pains me to say it - I feel like I should be loyal to the British brand )
I found that front tyre choice makes a bigger noticeable difference to the handling in the bends. The way it turns in & tracks through the bend. I particularly like the Shinko 712's (more so than the Avon Roadrider much as it pains me to say it - I feel like I should be loyal to the British brand
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