Anyone know if the right hand crankshaft oil seal can be replaced without splitting the cases on a 1983 GS1100E? Looks like mine has developed a small leak and needs replacing.
TIA,
TIA,
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83 GS1100E RH crankshaft oil seal replacement?
- Thread starter 1978GS750E
- Start date
Thanks Larry! Right now it's just keeping the ignition lightly lubed! Bring your wrenches and I "might" let you work on it!:highly_amused:
Anyone replaced this seal?
I've done it on a GS850, but not specifically an 1100E.
On the eight fiddy, it does not require splitting the cases or anything drastic, and I'm preeeeeeeeeeety darn sure the 1100E wouldn't be any different at all. I used an arrangement of a long 8mm bolt, some washers, a large socket that will fit over the crank and reach the seal, along a few nuts to gently push the seal into place rather than hammering it in. I used a thin smear of case sealer around the outer diameter of the seal, but I don't know if that's strictly necessary.
One caveat: examine the seal carefully under high magnification; you'll find a teensy weensy arrow indicating the direction of shaft rotation. On my bike, and almost certainly yours, this will mean that the seal will be installed "inside-out" from how you expect.
Guess how I learned this...
Also, pay attention to how deep the original seal is installed. It's possible to push in the new one way too far.
Thanks Brian!
Now if Partzilla comes thru with their 2nd day air shipping promise..............the stars align perfectly...........and........
I "may" have a non-leaker in Bedford! (At least from that area!)
Now if Partzilla comes thru with their 2nd day air shipping promise..............the stars align perfectly...........and........
I "may" have a non-leaker in Bedford! (At least from that area!)
This is timely for me as I am going after the last leak on my 82 GS1100E, hoo-rah.
So I took off the old one which involved carefully drilling through the outside edge using a set screw bit that would stop itself - there is only about 8 or 10mm clearance behind it where I drilled. Then using two pair of vice grips, one attached to the screw straight on, and the 2nd at a right angle attached to the adjuster screw of the first allowed enough room to smack the 2nd one with a hammer, and off it came (engine quite warm from a ride not sure it helps).
Now I read up on installation like this thread and another where Rapid Ray says the tension spring on the seal goes to the inside and sure enough the arrow direction as bwringer points out shows that to be the correct orientation. Dang! Mine evidently was in backwards, so per the picture, the new one on the left goes in properly as shown, metal side out. The right side shows it as removed, and the seal damage & peek at the spring.
The workshop manual section 7-44 shows the only picture I can find and though grainy, it is definitely rubber side out.... odd.
As for installation I don't want to have the center hang up and get damaged as I push in the seal so I'm looking at ways to do this properly. I like bwringer's idea of slowly pushing it in with a makeshift jig and not hammering it. The largest socket I have is 32mm and it's too small, I may have to get some pipe.
So I took off the old one which involved carefully drilling through the outside edge using a set screw bit that would stop itself - there is only about 8 or 10mm clearance behind it where I drilled. Then using two pair of vice grips, one attached to the screw straight on, and the 2nd at a right angle attached to the adjuster screw of the first allowed enough room to smack the 2nd one with a hammer, and off it came (engine quite warm from a ride not sure it helps).
Now I read up on installation like this thread and another where Rapid Ray says the tension spring on the seal goes to the inside and sure enough the arrow direction as bwringer points out shows that to be the correct orientation. Dang! Mine evidently was in backwards, so per the picture, the new one on the left goes in properly as shown, metal side out. The right side shows it as removed, and the seal damage & peek at the spring.
The workshop manual section 7-44 shows the only picture I can find and though grainy, it is definitely rubber side out.... odd.
As for installation I don't want to have the center hang up and get damaged as I push in the seal so I'm looking at ways to do this properly. I like bwringer's idea of slowly pushing it in with a makeshift jig and not hammering it. The largest socket I have is 32mm and it's too small, I may have to get some pipe.
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Yeah, those grainy darksome photos in the manuals just cheese me right off. Especially when they're showing you something ridiculously obvious like that locating pin in your example, and they have a true talent for skipping actual crucial information.
Nothing at all in the manual mentions you have to install the seal "backwards". AAAARRRGGGGHHH!
In the modern era, Youtube mechanics have a similar genius for omitting that one desperately needed crucial detail. I need to see exactly how that clip is aligned, and how to release it... aaaaaand in the two seconds it's in view, he turns the camera around so all I get is a blurry shot of beard and boogers, coupled with the obligatory wheezing.
Nothing at all in the manual mentions you have to install the seal "backwards". AAAARRRGGGGHHH!
In the modern era, Youtube mechanics have a similar genius for omitting that one desperately needed crucial detail. I need to see exactly how that clip is aligned, and how to release it... aaaaaand in the two seconds it's in view, he turns the camera around so all I get is a blurry shot of beard and boogers, coupled with the obligatory wheezing.
I consider him the final word on these bikes.
Got my gauge cluster from him. Was just thinking how it's very cool that quite a few parts of my Suzi came from quite a few members here. Thanks, guys.
Or the, "we already removed this section" when that removal is the critical reason behind wanting to watch the video:-\\\
I tried to endure a Harley guy removing his same Mikuni HSR42 I have to see how the air cleaner attached. He had no impact driver or brain, so he spent 10 minutes on 3 screws cursing, shredding Philips heads, and making lame-ass jokes with his partner until he got it off, then quickly skipped showing the next part. Thank god for FFWD but sheesh.
Oh by the way I got a 2" PVC straight joint that is just right on the outer rim of the seal. I will cut to the right height and sand it nice and level, then fasten a wood plate on and drill hole in the middle to allow me to use the center ignition fastener threads as the anchor to squeeze it in. I don't see why a 3 point contraption is needed with the 8mm's but should find out soon.
Nothing stopping you from grinding a small lead-in taper on the rubber edge of the seal. I've used a bench grinder for this previously, a sanding/linishing belt would do it too. Only a small taper on the leading edge is needed.
Grimly's method of protecting the inner lips is a good one too.
Grimly's method of protecting the inner lips is a good one too.
Yeah that seems necessary, I could see just with pushing it in to test fit by hand that it was peeling back the outer shiny layer so I started to do that just a little, but stopped as I wasn't real comfy with it.
Sorry to bogart your thread Ron but good info here for all doing this job. Love that signature
Sorry to bogart your thread Ron but good info here for all doing this job. Love that signature
Good info popping up here! I still haven't attempted replacing mine yet. Been working on getting other bikes running, and it only leaks when I ride it! LOL
I still haven't attempted replacing mine yet. Been working on getting other bikes running, and it only leaks when I ride it! LOL
Agree. There was a thread here recently where a member was scheming on replacing a countershaft seal on his Triumph and putting a chamfer on the case was part of the process.
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