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83gs750e dies at 3500rpm every gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter rABIDwOLF
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rABIDwOLF

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I'm working on my friends bike and wanted to pick your brains. His bike will bog down and die at 3500 rpm in every gear except nuetral. It also works fine of you pull in the clutch. Could he have some problem with his clutch or what?
 
Either the igniter is bad or the slides are stuck.
No mechanical advance, right?
 
Sorry I don't exactly know what you mean by mechanical advance. And, in regards to the igniters; I don't quite follow where that would be the issue if I have perfctbignition all the way to redline when the bike isn't in gear.
 
Have the carbs been cleaned? Sounds like dirty needle jets, also called emulsion tubes by some folks.
 
Yea the first thing we tried was completly taking the carbs off and cleaning all the jets and such. It didn't seem to help at all.
 
Yea the first thing we tried was completly taking the carbs off and cleaning all the jets and such. It didn't seem to help at all.
It could be the ignitor as already mentioned, that's right where the electronic advance kicks in. Just because it will rev to redline in neutral doesn't mean the advance is working.
 
Okay that makes sense. How would one go about testing that theory?
 
Either the igniter is bad or the slides are stuck.
No mechanical advance, right?
You're correct Bill, the 83 and up 700 750 1150 had electronic advance.. I think they might have used electronic advance on some of the big G models around then too, i remember my timing plate on my 82 1100G looked really different from the mechanical ones im used to seeing..and Im kind of thinking they're both probably right about the advance.. ALL FOUR slides would have to be sticking to stall the bike out.. possible, but highly unlikely. And ALL FOUR emulsion tubes would have to be clogged. I suppose its possible that his needles are just that far out of "in tune" that it could kill it, but you'd think it would break up really badly on the transition first.. And 3500 RPM is JUST at the pilot needle transition anyway.. It has to be the ignitor..

Wolf.. I dunno if you can test the ignitor in your bike the way the mechanical advance bikes can be, but if so its pretty easy..but Im not sure if it will prove your advance is or isnt working...
 
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Good old fashioned timing light. Watch for the advance on the right end of the crank.

ok I've done timing on other bikes (honda night hawk) but they looked WAY different.
I cant seem to find any section in the service manual that reference how to do the timing on this bike. Any help?
 
Is the airbox on the bike?

No.
The bike used to work fine, then towards the end of last it year started doing this out of the blue.

We figured the carbs were just dirty so we pulled them apart and cleaned them and fixed a small issue with the petcock.

Unfortunately none of that made any difference at all.
 
Wolf.. I dunno if you can test the ignitor in your bike the way the mechanical advance bikes can be, but if so its pretty easy..but Im not sure if it will prove your advance is or isnt working...

Yeah my old bike was mechanical and was easy to time and figure out...this...well lets just say its foreign to me
 
No.
The bike used to work fine, then towards the end of last it year started doing this out of the blue.

We figured the carbs were just dirty so we pulled them apart and cleaned them and fixed a small issue with the petcock.

Unfortunately none of that made any difference at all.
What issue with the petcock? And what happened to your airbox? You have pods now? Jet kit? Did you replace the petcock? its possible your fix didnt really fix it, and now you're starving the carbs.. that's probably right about where you'd notice it too... Just bouncing other, simpler to fix possibilities out there..
 
You should be able to see the advance kick in with a timing light. There's no gradual curve, above 3,500 rpm you'll see the timing jump as you give it gas.
 
No.
The bike used to work fine, then towards the end of last it year started doing this out of the blue.

We figured the carbs were just dirty so we pulled them apart and cleaned them and fixed a small issue with the petcock.

Unfortunately none of that made any difference at all.

Did you rejet the carbs to run without the airbox?
 
What issue with the petcock? And what happened to your airbox? You have pods now? Jet kit? Did you replace the petcock? its possible your fix didnt really fix it, and now you're starving the carbs.. that's probably right about where you'd notice it too... Just bouncing other, simpler to fix possibilities out there..

The diaphram in the petcock was shot to hell.. it was all crunchy. ordered a replacement and replaced it.

like i said the issue was before we did that. bikes essentially the same as last year when the issue cropped up on a trip from michigan to illinois
 
You should be able to see the advance kick in with a timing light. There's no gradual curve, above 3,500 rpm you'll see the timing jump as you give it gas.

so...anything special on how to use a timing light?
never used one before
 
The diaphram in the petcock was shot to hell.. it was all crunchy. ordered a replacement and replaced it.

like i said the issue was before we did that. bikes essentially the same as last year when the issue cropped up on a trip from michigan to illinois
Well, not to sound like a jerk, but GENERALLY, the petcock rebuild kits that are sold either dont work, or only work for a while. Rebuilding them, as most have found, is at best a temporary fix. Id start by assuring that your petcock is functioning properly. Remove the line from the tank, and using a secondary piece of fuel line, set the petcock to prime and see if fuel flows freely. If so, THAT part of the petcock is good. Then, you could either reinstall your fuel line, leave the petcock in the prime position and take the bike out and see if the bike still has your problem. If not, you know that the ON or Reserve position in the petcock is NOT working properly. If it DOESNT solve your problem, we'll move on to the next possible issues...
 
Well, not to sound like a jerk, but GENERALLY, the petcock rebuild kits that are sold either dont work, or only work for a while. Rebuilding them, as most have found, is at best a temporary fix. Id start by assuring that your petcock is functioning properly. Remove the line from the tank, and using a secondary piece of fuel line, set the petcock to prime and see if fuel flows freely. If so, THAT part of the petcock is good. Then, you could either reinstall your fuel line, leave the petcock in the prime position and take the bike out and see if the bike still has your problem. If not, you know that the ON or Reserve position in the petcock is NOT working properly. If it DOESNT solve your problem, we'll move on to the next possible issues...

The only thing that was replaced on the petcock is the diaphragm that limits the gas...the previous one had giant holes in it and was passing gas through to the vacuum line.

So we replaced it. The gas is flowing beautifully on Prime, On, and Reserve. I tested all there settings to make sure it was getting good flow through going on. So it has seemed to work fine since our replacement.

And like I said the problem existed before the part was replaced.
 
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