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90K mile service on the Bandit 1200

Jedz123

Jedz123

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Hey Guys

So I just brought the Bandit in for new shoes and a full thorough once over to make sure everything is in good working order.

Well now it's high mileage (88.5K on the clock) I was wondering what if anything I should keep an eye on for this season? I heard the cam chain tensioner should be replaced and I do notice some lash sound coming from it this year... Goes away after warm up though.

So far I've performed:
  • Fork Seals and added Fork boots (to deter from blowing another set of fork seals...)
  • Tires Front and Rear
  • Valve Check and adjustment
  • Oil and fluids change
  • Head bearing re pack (in great shape)
  • Stainless brake line replacemnt (Brakes were spongy)
  • New pads.

Left to perform:
  • New rotors (Ordered but the fade on them are far gone and the rivets are so loose that you can move the rotor clock wise and counter clock wise. They also rattle if you shake the rim).
  • Swing arm bearing inspection, Replace or repack.
  • Rear wheel bearings replacement (Crush gear hub was totally blown out and the others are notchy, new bearing set is ordered).
  • Chain and sprocket inspection, clean and lube (Looks to be in good shape).
  • Install Givi top case rack.

So is there anything I should be apprised of? I know these motors are die hard bullet proof. My Bike is running like a freight train but I noticed it wandering on my last ride, wheeled it in to swap our the Shinko 009's for proper Sport touting tires (Pilot Road 4GT in the rear and a 5 in the front) and decided to give it a very thorough once over. Came across a couple of issues but was curious if you guys could point out any other issues I should keep an eye out for? I do intend to roll over 100K with it this year just want to be sure we are in a good spot before doing so this year!

Some pics:

Rear wheel bearing:
29790420_10208676349305035_1335032845874366448_n.jpg

New Shoes!:
29791879_10208676349625043_5383166063797198766_n.jpg

Swapping the front tire to find REALLY Loose rotors...
29594639_10208676349985052_3486436436961098752_n.jpg



Thanks!
 
Sounds like you have the handle on your spring maintenance.👍
Of topic question, what type of communication system do you use while riding?
 
I have a Sena 10C It's awesome. Battery only last about 4 hours when recording in 1080P but if I just use it as a Comm it's fine for 14 hour days. I also use auxiliary battery back ups so I can record past 4 hours... It has inteli-link and I can google command with it through my phone. Sound cancellation software is awesome. I ask it, Call Norm Storm 64 GSR and it would link up and call you. Also plays music, tells me the time, If I'm in turn by turn Navigation I can ask it how many miles I have till my next turn or in total or when my ETA is... It's Bad A$$ and worth every penny.
Sena 10C
ProductHeaderBanner_10C_V2.jpg
 
Very cool Jedz, I just bought a Sena 10S. No camera but everything else. I will go good with my new Shoei GT Air. 👍
 
storm 64 said:
Very cool Jedz, I just bought a Sena 10S. No camera but everything else. I will go good with my new Shoei GT Air. 
Click to expand...
We will be able to link up perfectly for our ride to Indiana!!! Also you'll be able to be in my Videos for my Sena 10C records all that are connected.
Nice That will make our trip out go more quickly.
I'll do a rolling interview with you!!!
 
I think you've covered most of it -- chassis and suspension bearings are the most-neglected parts on a higher-mileage bike.

The factories only assemble these with a minimal amount of earwax (poor buggers at the factory must be scraping their ear canals raw), so if you take these apart before they fail and apply generous amount of quality waterproof grease they can last nearly indefinitely.

On my 2002 V-Strom, I did find that the radiator hoses weren't able to seal after about 12 years, and there were some leaky o-ring sealed fittings. Obviously, you don't have a radiator, but the point is that it's a good idea to take a very close look at the various rubber hoses and bits after a decade or so.

I know the brake rotors are all rattly, but a certain amount if that is pretty normal with floating rotors -- the little wave washers get a little looser over time, but shouldn't be dangerous. If the brakes are still working OK, replacement might not be all that urgent. It's a matter of taste, too.

Also, I know a lot of guys over on the V-Strom forum (heavier, taller bike) have been very impressed with the more reasonably priced Chinese replacement rotors found on fleaBay.

One thing I would add is a THOROUGH inspection of the wiring and connectors. Take a couple of hours, pull up a chair and a beverage, and get picky. Clean and apply dielectric grease as needed. The one Suzuki flaw that has endured through the decades to the present day is crappy unsealed connectors that just love to trap moisture and dirt and corrode.
 
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Excellent Bwringer, your advice is great for any motorcycle. I liked your ear wax for grease analogy. I'd like to add. When I bought my wheel bearings from our local bearing distributor. The counter salesmen showed me you can pop the plastic cover off a sealed bearing and properly pack the bearing with your grease of choice. Just use a pick or a pointy knife to get it off. Then your thumb to put the cover back on. Same thing, just a dab of ear wax...
 
Thanks Brian!

The rotors aren't a matter of choice but safety, both aren't true and move about a 1/4 inch in this rivets... They are toast and won't allow the front wheel to spin without getting hung up on a caliper, slightly.

I have the Chinese replicas coming in, Skip had good success with them on his ZZR, so I should be good there.

I will definitely go through the electrics!!! The tank gauge was acting funky and only reading 1/2 as high as it was... Good cleaning and ground cleaning the meter reads full.

I will do a once over on those!

I'm replacing all the brake lines too... I'm leaving the clutch, seems spot on still.
 
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storm 64 said:
Excellent Bwringer, your advice is great for any motorcycle. I liked your ear wax for grease analogy. I'd like to add. When I bought my wheel bearings from our local bearing distributor. The counter salesmen showed me you can pop the plastic cover off a sealed bearing and properly pack the bearing with your grease of choice. Just use a pick or a pointy knife to get it off. Then your thumb to put the cover back on. Same thing, just a dab of ear wax...
Click to expand...

Just a note of caution. Apparently its possible ot overpack a bearing with grease which can result in bearing overheating and damage - we were warned in apprentice school, and I've read it in tech specs on bearings a few times (I get a little geeky at work sometimes as I hate doing things twice)

I have a couple of anecdotal examples which may or may not be related to it, but it may be worth checking into. A dab of earwax is probably fine, but my dad would point to the small amount of grease put in, then promptly pack away. It seemed to be the beginning of a regular cycle of chaning the track idler wheel bearings on his snowmobile.
 
Thanks guys! I had no idea you could repack sealed bearings like that!

Did anyone have any 2 cents on the cam chain tensioner? I did some research off forum and read that some people tear the bike down to replace the cam chain, others install an APE manual adjuster and ride the snot out of the bike. I'm really not worried about it for it seemed fine when I was in there.

I have a laundry list for supplies to grab at my next stop at the auto-parts store. The TUX need an oil change as well...

Hope to have the Bandit on the road by Sunday AM... As long as the new rotors come in!

Thanks,
 
Just for your information, on the B12, the clutch fibers are three different thicknesses. Eight of them are the same, one is a bit thinner and the last is a lot thinner. If I remember correctly, the first on the stack is the thinnest, then the 8 of same thickness and last the slightly thinner.
I ordered an aftermarket fiber replacement pack and all the fibers were the same thickness, resulting in the stack being too tall (thick) to fit on the shaft. If you do the clutch, be sure to order Suzuki parts for it. Don't go aftermarket, they probably won't fit.
 
I've put 81K on the B12 and recently replaced tires, brakes, chain, sprockets, petcock, spark plugs, battery, air filter, oil filter, head light bulbs, did a valve adjustment with new gasket, flushed carb float bowls, flushed tank and flushed brake and clutch cylinders. All of that is just normal maintenance though. I've had no problem with bearings, fork seals, rotors, brakes, wiring, the cam chain tension, fuel gauge or instruments. I do run the bike, but I'm not what I would consider hard on it.
 
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Is there any truth to the rumor that 2001-02 B12's used oil prodigiously? Dale Walker is one person who says so.
 
GS1150Pilot said:
Is there any truth to the rumor that 2001-02 B12's used oil prodigiously? Dale Walker is one person who says so.
Click to expand...
It isn't a rumor at all. It was a factory recall and free installation of new pistons for those bikes with the faulty piston oiling holes.

In 2001 and 2002 there were two suppliers of pistons for the B12. One maker had mistakenly drilled over size oiling holes in the ring grooves which caused a BAD over oiling/consumption problem. The other manufacturer drilled the ring grooves correctly. I have the vin numbers for the Bandit 12's produced in 2001 and 2002 that had the incorrect oiling holes drilled in them. Quite a few bandits were sold in 2001 and 02 before the problem was found and corrected. Most of the B12's with the oiling problem are from mid to late 2001 and early 2002.
 
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GS1150Pilot said:
Good to know. I have been passively looking at an '01 ...
Click to expand...

Ok then, here is what you need to know.

There was a factory service recall for replacement of the pistons free of charge to the owner. If a bike you are considering buying is in the vin number range that HAD/HAS the defective pistons and the replacement work has been done, providing the bike vin number to a suzuki dealer will enable them to check the service record to verify the new pistons have been installed. (obviously, if there is nothing on the service record, the bike has not been fixed by suzuki) heh

The faulty pistons were installed in 2001-2002 bikes with vin numbers lower than JS1GV77A 2210 2179. inclusive.
Any vin number of JS1GV77A 2210 2180 or higher did not have the problem.
 
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