A word of Warning regarding Chains

[storm 64]

Not to mention chain stretch, Remember that? Constantly adjusting your chain

I think I told the story before of me racing the VW Wolfsburg addition on the PA turnpike? I was hauling tail on my way to Pittsburgh to see a Clark's concert. I was on my 1100e. The VW Jetta and I were both wide open throttle for a few miles, Neck and neck... Later on my way home, I keep hearing a random clanging sound. When I got home to investigate. Here the master link clip was gone. The back plate was gone. The remaining link was bent in a way it kept the chain together. How I made it through that, I'll never know.

 

[Grimly]

The heyday of the Snotoiler was at the tail end of the roller chain, and it made a huge difference.
30K miles from a fairly ordinary chain on a middleweight bike wasn't unknown.
Depended on use, of course. Revving the guts out of the thing out of every corner would shorten chain life.

 

[Rob S.]

In 1975 I bought a '71 CB350 that I rode for four years, the last with extreme mods. I don't recall replacing the chain or sprockets. I wonder what kind of chain it was.

 

[grcamna2]

I have been using plain roller chains on a number of my bikes for a while;I prefer O-ring chains though.I am always making sure to lube all the links on roller chains to keep them from drying-out.Has anyone ever used the brand that vintage Harley riders used for a long time? Diamond.
I use Diamond Powersports roller chain made specifically for motorcycles(not their Industrial chain)and it's well made with tight tolerances;I also like RK and DID.I use Silkolene Pro Chain 100% synthetic chain lube.The lube is best applied to a warm chain just after a ride,it really comes out lite and penetrates deeply into the roller chain link pins.I then leave the chain alone for overnight(or 8 hrs)and let it set-up.This lube really hangs in there and resists flinging off when applied to a dry chain,recommended for O-ring chains also.

 

[xkaes]

I was recently given an unopened 5-gallon barrel of kerosene. I figured I can use it to routinely clean my sealed 530 chains per Suzuki's recommendation, but I'm going to try some on an upcoming carb cleaning -- and compare it to two different commercial carb cleaners. Since I have so much kerosene, I hope the kerosene works out. I'll let you know.

 

[Cipher]

Once having a shaft there is no going back.
Chains suck.

 

[Cipher]

I was recently given an unopened 5-gallon barrel of kerosene. I figured I can use it to routinely clean my sealed 530 chains per Suzuki's recommendation, but I'm going to try some on an upcoming carb cleaning -- and compare it to two different commercial carb cleaners. Since I have so much kerosene, I hope the kerosene works out. I'll let you know.

Hmmm kero as carb cleaner.
Well years ago despair drove me to wash debris from a iron Duke i4. Head removed for valve job. The diesel I used sat atop the pistons overnight and I was astonished that it lifted all the carbon off the piston crowns leaving them to look shiny new.

But can kero do carb varnish? Imma say no.

 

[GS1150Pilot]

[video]https://www.bikersrights.com/diy-homemade-carb-cleaner/[/video]

 

[xkaes]

But can kero do carb varnish? Imma say no.

Some people (on this Forum) say "YES", and some say "NO". Since I've got kerosene, old-style commercial carb-cleaner, and new-style commercial carb-cleaner, and plenty of carbs with the same amount of "dirt", it will be easy for me to perform a controlled experiment -- with before and after pictures. All I have to do is vary the time that the part is soaked in each, say 10m, 20m, 30m. Pretty simple.

 

[grcamna2]

I was recently given an unopened 5-gallon barrel of kerosene. I figured I can use it to routinely clean my sealed 530 chains per Suzuki's recommendation, but I'm going to try some on an upcoming carb cleaning -- and compare it to two different commercial carb cleaners. Since I have so much kerosene, I hope the kerosene works out. I'll let you know.

I think the Kero will clean the surface of the o-ring chain well with a light,quick application of it on a soft brush(toothbrush)and then wipe it right off.The o-ring chains have a factory grease injected into each link and it's supposed to stay in there behind the o-rings for the life of the chain,as long as the o-rings don't get torn or damaged,according to the advertising on the new RK chain packages which the chain comes in.I'm not sure I would soak an o-ring chain in Kero as that might wash-out the factory grease from behind the o-rings.

WD40 is also useful as an O-ring chain cleaner,but not a lube for the chain.

 

[tatu]

Revving the guts out of the thing out of every corner would shorten chain life.

Is there any other way?

 

[bwringer]

Not to mention chain stretch, Remember that? Constantly adjusting your chain

Yeah, much as I would prefer shaft drive on all my bikes, things with modern chains aren't too terrible. Install a good quality chain and sprockets, keep it reasonably clean and protected, and it won't need adjustment for 30,000 miles or so.

Once there's enough wear to notice and require adjustment, it's at EOL and it's time to order up a new chain and sprockets. Simple.

No, not cheap. But simple.

 

[wyly]

Don't scrimp on cheap chains, the price difference is minor compared to cost of the cases or worse should you go for a tumble.
My buddy has chain on his V strom with 35,000 kms on it, he rarely adjusts it, keeps it clean and lubed.
Make sure the sprockets are lined up perfectly don't trust the manufacturers alignment marks. I use a laser to line them up, a straight edge will work if don't have a laser.