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Adjusting rear shocks

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShirleySerious
  • Start date Start date
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ShirleySerious

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How do I go about adjusting the rear shocks on my 550E so I can have a passenger?
 
The stock shocks I... Well first off how much do you weigh? If you're much more than 150lbs, you should just crank those shocks all the way up. There are adjuster rings around the base of the shocks. I stick an allen wrench into the hole and use that to adjust it. I'm 200lbs, I had the shocks cranked to full.

I have some bottoming problems with a 140lb passenger. Anything more than that and the shocks bottom out very frequently. I recently switched to KYB's and any bottoming is gone now.

The proper adjustment method is to Get off the bike, put it on the center stand. measure the distance between the tire and the inside of the fender. Get on the bike, and have someone else measure that distance. The bike should "sag" about 1"
 
I'm somewhere in the ballpark of 185 lbs, so I'm not too worried about bottoming out. So I stick an allen wrench of a certain size in the hole or any size will do? Will tightening them all the way compromise my ride on bumpy pavement?
 
Nope. If anything it may get better. It'll also make the steering feel better. I used whatever allen wrench fit in the hole :-) it won't be easy to adjust. Honestly I'd just crank them all the way up, and back them down one notch if things don't feel right.
 
You should see a "stepped" adjuster at the bottom of your rear shocks. That's for spring preload (making the springs initially harder, or more compressed).

There should be a spanner in your Suzuki tool kit to adjust the shocks. If not, an allen wrench may work, or a screwdrive that will fit into the hole (no specific size necessary). The problem is leverage, though - the spanner tool gives you enough leverage to turn the adjuster pretty easily.


If you don't have the spanner, and have to adjust the shock with an allen wrench, have a friend hold the bike straight up from the rear, and lift as hard as he can on the tail or grab handle - this will take the pressure off of the shock springs and make adjusting them a lot easier.


And get some new shocks when you have the bread. ;)



-Q!
 
1) Remove stock shocks
2) Deposit in trash
3) Purchase Progressive shocks
4) Install and enjoy...

It'll be well worth the investment to upgrade to Progressive or better shocks. Until then, just crank up the preload as best you can and don't expect much. These bikes were originally set up for 130 pound Japanese test riders, and the components have had 20+ years to sag and wear. Stock suspension is downright dangerous in many cases.

Don't forget to install Progressive fork springs, too.

Progressive shocks and fork springs are about the least expensive way to step up to good suspension. You can get even better performance from Ikon, Hagon, Works, or Ohlins suspension components, but that can get expensive.
 
Nerobro said:
I think I've got ya'll beat with my $135 KYB dual adjustable shocks. :-)
I picked up a Works shock with remote reservoir, it's pretty nice. Quai Chang has me beat to hell though, he's got an Ohlins.
 
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Billy Ricks said:
I picked up a Works shock with remote reservoir, it's pretty nice. Quai Chang has me beat to hell though, he's got an Ohlins.

So has The Tractor now!!!

Dink
 
I picked up a Works shock with remote reservoir, it's pretty nice. Quai Chang has me beat to hell though, he's got an Ohlins.



Not yet - still trying to sneak the $420 charge past the Missus.


:oops: :-$


Definitely this fall, though. Just don't rat me out....


;)



-Q!
 
Not yet - still trying to sneak the $420 charge past the Missus.


:oops: :-$


Definitely this fall, though. Just don't rat me out....


;)



-Q!
Where are you getting an Ohlins for $420? Works wants about $700 for theirs. I just got lucky and got the Works for $150 from user here. Barely used for some reason.
 
P1010372.jpg



The Works Durasport w/reservoir (same as the pictured shock on my Bandit 1200) retails for $550 brand spankin new. You can get the shock without the reservoir for $500. They list tons of applications for older monoshock bikes including the 750/700ES.

They are custom valved/sprung for your specific weight and riding preference.

$420 for an Ohlins must be either used, hot, or both.

I am very happy with the Durasport on the Bandito, it is a very nicely made unit with a reasonable price

Ride On, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 Ducati 900SS
 
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P1010372.jpg



The Works Durasport w/reservoir (same as the pictured shock on my Bandit 1200) retails for $550 brand spankin new. You can get the shock without the reservoir for $500. They list tons of applications for older monoshock bikes including the 750/700ES.

They are custom valved/sprung for your specific weight and riding preference.

$420 for an Ohlins must be either used, hot, or both.

I am very happy with the Durasport on the Bandito, it is a very nicely made unit with a reasonable price

Ride On, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 Ducati 900SS

I stand corrected. I still need to mount mine. Out on the road so much lately i haven't had any bike time.
 
Nope. If anything it may get better. It'll also make the steering feel better. I used whatever allen wrench fit in the hole :-) it won't be easy to adjust. Honestly I'd just crank them all the way up, and back them down one notch if things don't feel right.

I just cranked my rear shocks all the way up and it makes for a much nicer, "non-mushy" ride. Steering feels a tad more responsive too.
I keep the fork pressurized to 12PSI.
 
I have a 78 GS550. I can't seem to find any kind of adjustment on the rear shock. Can someone show a picture?
 
I have a 78 GS550. I can't seem to find any kind of adjustment on the rear shock. Can someone show a picture?
If you look at the bottom of the shocks shown below you'll see a ramped adjuster that has notches that raises or lowers tension on the spring.
bc_1_b.JPG
 
THe one with the two little holes on top of each other? So crank the top one clockwise?
 
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