Anyone experienced with painting there own bike body parts?

[irishluck]

Hopefully I am in the right area to post this.
So I'm a new GS1100 owner. I own two 1982 models.

In a previous thread I have going I am getting the bike properly running. I have had it running but found out it needs to be shimmed so Im waiting on parts to arrive for this.
In the mean time I'm taking the time to fix other needs such as the fuel tank and fenders. Have a couple small dents in them, clear coat peeling and fading/chipped paint.

So I have used aircraft stripper to strip the whole fuel tank down to bare metal.
Used body filler to fill in the dents and right now in the process of sanding it all down to a smooth finish.
What i want to do is paint my own tank and fenders but I'm not using a rattle can method. I would like to use a solid quality paint job.
Some of you may say "you should just have it professionally painted". Well, I like to do all my own work and learn at the same time. =D

I'm just wondering though if anyone on here has any experience in doing this and might give me some tips in painting. What kind of paint, what I'm going to need and so forth.
I've bought a touch up spray gun since this project is fairly small and I have a more than capable air compressor. In line filter and gauge for the paint gun.

What I've got so far is I need to use is an epoxy primer, then 2k urethane primer, the base coat and the clear coat.

 

[posplayr]

You could probably find plenty of links describing what you need if you use the search. Nessism (Ed) has become one of the local DIY experts) as distinguished form the real experts (like Nvr2old)that have been doing this professionally for a long time.

I've tried my hand at painting and got lucky a few times...........

 

[Spit]

A few rules I discovered... Don't spray in cold or damp, only do a max of four coats at a time and leave a week or so in a warm place to fully harden before the next coats and do plenty of flatting off with medium (800 grit) wet & dry at every stage. Use etch primer on bare metal. Finish off laquer with 2000 grit rub down followed by t-cut to polish.

 

[Nessism]

Painting a motorcycle gas tank is almost identical to painting a car. There is endless information on what to do around the internet, or in the archives here, so research to your hearts content. Main thing is to follow the paint manufacturers directions. The spec sheet will define the temperature range for spraying, how long to wait between coats, etc.

Let us know if you have any specific questions after you research the general process. There are lots of guys about that can help.

 

[barnbiketom]

I am nothing but a novice and a jack of all trades/master of none kinda guy, BUT I have found that at NAPA auto parts, they sell "Finish 1" 2 part epoxy enamel paint that is very FORGIVING. I've done 3 or 4 bikes and everyone says they are perfect.
I use NAPA self etching PRIMER in spray bomb and it is the BEST PRIMER I have ever used.
After mixing the color coat 4:1 with the hardener, I put on 3 a total of light coats of paint.. each coat I spray two times, actually 2 goes, perpendicular to each other then wait 10 MINUTES BETWEEN COATS.
The last coat will amaze you....and I use a 14 dollar HARBOR FREIGHT purple gun...
look close.. reflections on tank are shed ceiling insulation!!

 

[barnbiketom]

78 Suzuki GS400

 

[tkent02]

Here are a few of mine...

Whatever methods, tools and supplies you use, it's a lot of work.

 

[jsandidge]

I am nothing but a novice and a jack of all trades/master of none kinda guy, BUT I have found that at NAPA auto parts, they sell 'Finish One" 2 part epoxy enamel paint that is very FORGIVING. I've done 3 or 4 bikes and everyone says they are perfect.
I use NAPA self etching PRIMER in spray bomb and it is the BEST PRIMER I have ever used.
After mixing the color coat 4:1 with the hardener, I put on 3 a total of light coats of paint.. each coat I spray two times, actually 2 goes, perpendicular to each other then wait 10 MINUTES BETWEEN COATS.
The last coat will amaze you....and I use a 14 dollar HARBOR FREIGHT purple gun...
View attachment 38092look close.. reflections on tank are shed ceiling insulation!!

Are you using a clearcoat over that? Sure looks good!

 

[barnbiketom]

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Refinish-Finish-One/_/R-MSRQTFA625_0006419773 33 bucks a quart many colors available on the shelf!!

Are you using a clearcoat over that? Sure looks good!

NOPE just 3 coats , after a week wax it and go.. done it on at least 4 bikes with this paint...they have different hardeners depending on the ambient temp. slow, regular and fast but I alway use regular no problems from 50 degrees to 70..here's a tank after striping with aerosol stripper from walmart then I used the NAPA spray bomb acid etch primer. after it dries in an hour or so, you can't make a mark on it with your fingernail its that hard. but sands easy with wet 320 and a few coats will fill any slight imperfections great!!
I painted all the metal stuff on the GS400 and still have 3/4 quart left using the HF cheepo hvlp.(says HVLP but not really)

 

[JTGS850GL]

Here's a link to my rebuild thread starting on page 3. It shows all the painting parts near the bottom and on page 4:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218173-New-to-me-GS1000G/page3

It's the bike in my signature.

 

[irishluck]

Very nice looking bikes guys and the quality of the paint jobs.
Im going to be doing a complete rebuild of what I have.
I'd like to end up building a cafe racer style of bike from it.

Like these.

 

[irishluck]

I guess my main questions I would like to ask is what type of paint did you use?
Did you use single stage or two stage paint? Did you use enamel paint or urethane paint?

I've read a lot online about how the urethane is a lot stronger than enamel.
But enamel us water based which means I DON'T believe its entirely water proof, if that makes since.
Were as urethane paint uses solvent to adhere its self.

Any tips on this would be great lol I just don't know which paint to use. Id like a good quality professional looking paint job, well that my ability can handle lol

 

[JTGS850GL]

I use a two part urethane base coat/clear coat system on my paint jobs unless I really don't care. Enamel is not necessarily water based and most are solvent based. You can spray a single stage paint but the gloss level achieved is a little less. BC/CC systems are a little more time consuming to shoot but usually yield better results. IMHO

What ever paint type you choose, use components that are designed to work together. Usually that means buying components that are from the same MFG but now always. I have mixed and matched components from other manufacturers but you risk incompatibility that could yield to a failed paint job. Personally I like to use PPG from a local vender or House of Kolor from TCP Global. TCP Global sells a "Restoration shop line" that's perfect for the home painter on a budget. Very high quality paints that are fairly easy to shoot and they pack the entire system as a kit. they offer it in a variety of formulas so you can choose the system you most comfortable with.

You'll only need about a quart kit to do all the components and still have enough left over if you need to do some additional touch up. You can pick up a decent spray gun for cheap. The only thing you need to be aware of is that you need to make sure the gun is solvent cleaned before you start to shoot any paint. Harbor Freight actually has some decent nock off guns for less then you would expect. Get two guns. One for primer and one for final coats. You can pick up the two guns at HF for around $50. Make sure you have a clean air compressor. Water in the air line is a big no no. Also, as other have said, don't shoot your paint in humid weather. There's much more but just ask questions and I'm sure that someone here can steer you in the right direction.

 

[irishluck]

Your response actually helped a lot. Appreciate the feedback there and gives me a better insite on what to look for. I actually picked up a paint gun from TCP Global. Its a HVLP touch up paint gun.
I just did a google search for the PPG and there is a local shop here im going to check out and talk to them and see what they have!

I use a two part urethane base coat/clear coat system on my paint jobs unless I really don't care. Enamel is not necessarily water based and most are solvent based. You can spray a single stage paint but the gloss level achieved is a little less. BC/CC systems are a little more time consuming to shoot but usually yield better results. IMHO

What ever paint type you choose, use components that are designed to work together. Usually that means buying components that are from the same MFG but now always. I have mixed and matched components from other manufacturers but you risk incompatibility that could yield to a failed paint job. Personally I like to use PPG from a local vender or House of Kolor from TCP Global. TCP Global sells a "Restoration shop line" that's perfect for the home painter on a budget. Very high quality paints that are fairly easy to shoot and they pack the entire system as a kit. they offer it in a variety of formulas so you can choose the system you most comfortable with.

You'll only need about a quart kit to do all the components and still have enough left over if you need to do some additional touch up. You can pick up a decent spray gun for cheap. The only thing you need to be aware of is that you need to make sure the gun is solvent cleaned before you start to shoot any paint. Harbor Freight actually has some decent nock off guns for less then you would expect. Get two guns. One for primer and one for final coats. You can pick up the two guns at HF for around $50. Make sure you have a clean air compressor. Water in the air line is a big no no. Also, as other have said, don't shoot your paint in humid weather. There's much more but just ask questions and I'm sure that someone here can steer you in the right direction.

 

[Nessism]

PPG makes great paint. It's quite expensive though. Omni is their bargain brand. It's fine quality wise, but thin so you need more material so it's not as great a deal as you might think based on purchase price.

Because of VOC rules in my area most of the really nice paints are outlawed. PPG 2002 clear is my favorite. It sprays really nice and lays out thick so you don't need very many coats. DP (and DPLF) primer is top of the line too. Can't get it in my area so my latest project used Transtar epoxy primer and it sprayed really well for a low VOC product.

I've been using House of Kolor base and clear lately and it's just okay. The clear is tricky (UFC35 is high solids, USC01 is low VOC). The tendency is for it to spray either dry (orange peel) or run.

I bought some single stage Nason black urethane for painting my frame and that stuff is some of the nicest to spray paint I've ever used. Awesome stuff. Flows like glass and not prone to run. If anyone needs some black let me know. I bought a gallon and only used about 1 quart. You won't find a better frame paint. It could be used for a tank too. Any color you want as long as it's black.

 

[Guest]

Lot o' eye candy on this page, scrolled through it twice.

 

[irishluck]

I don't need the best paint. Just a good quality paint that isnt going to break the bank.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Go with the restoration line on the link I gave and you'll be happy.

 

[Nessism]

One of the problems you run into when painting is the paint quantities far exceed the need most of the time. Paint isn't cheap either. One quart of epoxy primer is enough to paint at least two or three bikes when you add in the hardener.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSTAR-2K...0772839591&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSTAR-2K...0639384026&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

[SVSooke]

What Nessism says is true.I'm hoping the local supplier here I use will do me pintsray:Even my 85 750EF which has more bodywork than most doesn't need more than a pint of base or clear.Prep is defiantly the key,cut corners on the EF and will be redoing it